Search results

OK Guys - I need some advise! I have a 2000 Explorer 4x4 with an OHV - about 110k miles. I haven't used it much for off-road, but occasionally. Recently I've taken it into tougher 4x4 situations (north GA mountains). When it is climbing hard or heavy mud in 4x4 (high), it makes noise...

How long does it take to trip the code after you reset it (either by clearing it or removing the neg battery cable)? I have the lean codes pop up every once in awhile when its cold, but it will go several hundered miles to thousands of miles before tripping again. Point being, I have...

BrooklynBay - fyi, that is on a Gen 1. The Gen 2 is much much easier. Pretty much all there is to it is removing the caliper bracket and the rotor comes off. No need to touch the hub.

The rotors and pads are a pretty easy job. I just did my front's this past weekend. It took about an hour and the total cost of the parts was $80. It may even be worth doing the brake job before you buy it if he'll let you borrow it for a few hours.

Dogrfriend - Thanks for the clarification and the grace on my jargen. The job doesn't look too bad. I'm going to tackle it this weekend.

Thanks JTSmith - I think it's time for me to tackle this job myself. Pep Boys want's to charge $100 per rotor plus $120 for the brakes. Napa has Rotors for $30 a pop, so that looks like the way to go. One novice question. When I take the old rotors off and pop the new ones on, what do you...

OK, another question. If I do the rotors, do I need to change the brakes as well?

My frustriation is the brakes are fine and the rotors are straight. They said that if they do the rotors they need to do the brakes also. I don't have a problem spending the money to keep it in shape, I am just wondering if it is necessary.

They are not trying to turn them or put them on the lathe. They just did the check as part of an overall inspection. I was having the alignment done and a few other things. They go over the whole thing to drum up other busniness. So assuming the brakes are fine and the Rotors don't need...

I took my car to Pep Boys. They said the Rotors were under spec on the front (.93 vs .98 Spec) and they recommended replacing the pads and rotors. The pads are fine and have plenty of life left. I'd rather not replace the rotors and pads if I don't need to . Any Advice? I have an...

I've had some good luck with Cooper Lake Automative in Smyrna. Off South Cobb Drive. btw - are you Pi Kappa Phi?

Seafoam Thru Intake I did the same thing the other day. I have a MAC intake. Disconnected at the MAF and pointed it strait up in the air. Ran about 8oz of SeaFoam thru and got the best cleaning I have had. You have to rev the engine a little more to open up the TB, but it did the trick...

The expanded airflow shouldn't cause it to run lean. I'd clean the MAF sensor, they sometimes get gummed up from excessively oiled filters.

I had the exact same issue last week while trying to get my upper intake off. See this link for details: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145716 You need to remove the EGR, then the bolt holding the dipstick, then bend up the dipstick bracket and then take out the bolt...

I have a 00 XLS 4x4. It has always made a popping or crunching sound when I take a hard turn into my driveway (which is up hill and over a lip into the driveway). I figured it was part of the charm of owning a Ford.

Got It I got this figured out. Anyone with a 2000 OHV, I hope this helps in the future. This was to remove the upper intake. On the 2000, there is a exhaust tube that rises from the EGR to the upper intake (pictured in dogfriends post above). In order to remove the intake, after all the...

Dogfriend, THanks for the post. Great detail! Item 21 (or the photo next to it may be what I'm looking at. On mine (from my research I think they changed in 00), a tube goes from the back of the EGR up into the intake. The bolt it says to remove in step 21 holds the oil dipstick in place...

More details, this seems way too confusing. There is an EGR tube that bolts into the EGR valve with a 27mm nut. This is not the tube I'm having issues with. There is a big metal tube that comes out of the back of the egr valve and rises up to the upper intake. It's about 1/2'' in dia. It...

Can I just pull tube out of the upper intake? Is it 'bolted' in there some how, or just held in with a seal? I would think I could just pull it out, but haynes doesn't say anything about it.

More details Just some more details, as I have been searching the board. I am talking about the tube on the drivers side (00 OHV) that goes from the EGR valve up into the upper intake. I have read about a 27mm bolt. I think that is the bolt that holds the egr valve onto the tube that ties...

I have a 00 4.0 OHV. I am removing the upper intake to get to the lower intake bolts (to either tighten them down or replace the gasket depending on what I see when I get there). Anyway, It seemed easy enough, till I got to the EGR tube, which is attached to the intake and looks like its...

I have the same issue, but on mine, it seems like the cable is streched. I have to pull all the way, and then a little more. Then it releases. Anyone know how to tighten that cable?

I did it for the first time about two weeks ago. Lot's of white smoke and the ticking valves has gone away. Two keys I found: 1) put it in fast. 2) Cut the engine off before it runs through I put a small funnel in the PCV hose and poured about 5 ounces of SeaFoam. I had a buddy at...

I think that is the setup I will have after I install the secondary cooler. Currently, I have a fixed line that comes out of the bottom and straight back to tranny. No 3/8'' rubber line that splits off and up to the cooler. Thanks again for the insight. On another note, you have a 2000...

63,000 on my '00. Just a baby.