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your LOM module likely has an issue with it. Some fix, some "modify", and some replace.

no problem, I am just suggesting that there is lots of posts for both issues and that they are likely not related especially if your observations are correct about locks not working at other buttons (ie. passenger and rear cargo, plus remote). You will likely find your answers when / if you...

you likely have two problems... the locks are not related to the windows. For windows, check / clean the "lockout switch" on the master. Then if that doesn't resolve the problem, check wiring in the door post for breaks... lots of posts. On the locks, likely issue is a "rotted splice" in the...

I doubt soldering is going to change anything unless somehow a "run" crossed over some tracks.... but heck, anything that is free, is good by me. Good luck.

check the relay with a meter, see if the contacts are always closed. IF not, then it is more likely that the "active component" (ie. trans) has failed.

no but if he opened it all the way and the fuse is gone, it won't close and since its open all the way, it won't open either.

fuse

well you need to do some more "engineerin'".... :-) as you know, it takes more than testing the component for functionality, you also need to have the conditions right for operation / functionality. check to see if you are indeed getting voltage at the coils (and grounds) of the various relays...

Odds are high that the "re-install" won't be easy or go well. One of the main reason for your leaking is that rusting has occurred under the rubber area such that the glues have nothing to "grasp". I have had the same problem crop up on my 96. I basically ran a bead of silicon (automotive)...

save yourself some money on fuses and use that meter to measure the resistance from the fuse holder to ground (ie. remove the fuse and check the outgoing connector / spade. Next, pull the connection at the coil, what is the reading now? Note: if you are blowing 25 amp fuses, you are looking at...

you didn't really answer the question about the "flashing speed".... is it rapidly flashing or just "normal"? (I think one indicates a "violation" while there other indicates the system sees nothing). Either way, your problem may likely be that the receiver pickup in the ignition is no longer...

OK... I probably should have provide a "few more steps" in your "investigation" as its not as plain and simple as I set out... I thought you would be aware of a few things with "modern cars". First, there was a meter suggestion... why because you can get an actual reading. This is your...

OK.... let's back up a bit. With the picture you posted above as a reference, please indicate which wires were connected for your test... AND exactly how you connected your meter AND what you thought you were measuring (ie. voltage, current, ???). Then we can go from there. Although, it would...

:-) ... I think all you succeeded in doing was measuring the current draw of the starter relay coil plus any accessories there in. I doubt very seriously that's got anything at all to do with your problem. Usually when one is looking for "unusual draws", you disconnect things in the fuse...

Its not the low fuel warning... its "your airbag light is out" warning.... you have to replace the light...:-)

The quickest and easiest way to check things out is disconnect the alternator wiring (ie. unplug things). Without doing anything else to the vehicle (leave your keys alone), check for voltage at all the connectors... there should be voltage (hopefully 12v) on at least two wires therein. IF...

ooh ooh... that's a different "fish", probably should have mentioned that earlier. You need to probably see if you can get the digital control to go into "diagnostic mode" and see what it says.... of course, search is your friend for finding out how to do that (I got a manual system)...

you don't have to worry about any relays, etc and forget odb, it ain't going to help you with wiring. Anyways, another question, you have the manual AC/heating system as opposed to the EATC system right??? IF you have a manual system, you are going to have to "break in" to the dash / panel and...

ok.... now of course there is always more questions... :-) which fuse number are you looking at? basically, it would appear to be a broken wire between the fuse panel output and the low pressure switch... :-( you could try running a wire from the battery to one side of the connector and...

ok back to the fuse... as was mentioned here, the top of the fuse has "contact points" (I don't know my self)... did you measure for voltage on BOTH of those points when you said you had 14v there????

???? not on the switch... remove the connector from the switch and make sure you are able to contact the points inside the connector. IF your ground is good... there is always the battery negative or wiring from there. Anyways, if you indeed were able to touch the proper points and the...

The technique is exactly the same... find a good ground and touch the other probe on the "test point" of interest.

well they easiest way is the pull the fuse, check for voltage on one contact of the fuse slot and then the other... that tells you if voltage is arriving ... note your key has to be on. Then measure the resistance of the fuse to see if it is actually good. Finally, put the fuse back in and...

did you check the fuse AND wiring arriving and leaving the fuse WITH a meter?

likely a wire issue (bare / cut).... in either the driver's door post or the other common issue area, the left rear passenger cable raceway.