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A few ideas: Yes, probably time to check compression. Not too hard on a 4cyl. I believe there are instructions somewhere on this site if you need them.... High hydrocarbons means unburnt fuel in the exhaust. It may also mean oil in the exhaust as in poor rings or poor valve seals. Oil...

When I bought my 99 5.0 (new) it had this problem. The service manager replaced it twice and it still did it. He worked with Ford tech pretty closely, but they did not solve it. On a whim, I replaced the standard ATF with Mobil1 synthetic. It fixed the problem. It would still do it just a...

Dang, MountaineerGreen, that is a sweet diagram. Short, sweet, and to the point. Need to do one of those for the 4.0 and all the newer engines and make it a sticky. Probably need to put an arrow on it cause for sure someone will ask which end of the picture is supposed to be the front of...

To replace heads you must have pulled the camshaft position sensor. That will give you a lot of grief if you don't get it back in correctly. Have you run the engine to TDC and checked that it is in correctly?

That is the rear abs sensor on the rear diffy. There is a "tone" ring inside the diffy that the abs sensor uses to sense whether the rear brakes are locking up - if the diffy quits spinning the brakes are locked. I think the speed sensor you are referring to is on the tranny.

Not really sure what happened but it will be all over the back axle from what you said. So, if you crawl underneath and check it should be easy to figure out. You should really pull the rad cap and check coolant - if a hose blew the reservoir will stay full if there was a sudden coolant...

Had that problem on my 99. The torsion bar adjusting bolts are coated with a blue threadlock when new. When backed in and out a couple of times (from working on the front end) that stuff strips off, and they back themselves out over time. Ford says to use new bolts each time they are removed...

Probably just time to think about new shocks, as long as everything is tight. My 99 was very rough over bumps - new shocks took care of it. Used the Monroe Sensatracs, which I liked.

I would guess it is pinging - that is way more common on the V-8's. I have that myself, and have yet to find the solution. Happens going up hills, or pulling loads. Lifter noise is heard best at idle - once you rev it up, it usually disappears.

Checking in here about once a week, busy with some other stuff, sorry. I think the comparison between plug 4 and plug 6 pretty much says it all. Lots of rust and crud on the #4 plug threads, #6 plug is pretty. If you had gas on the #4 plug when you pulled it, you would smell it right away...

Yes, the reddish color is from fuel additives normally found in unleaded gas. I meant to say I found out about that on the AUTOLITE website. Go to autolite.com, click on car care, scroll down to plug tip diagnosis, and take a look at plug 2. I would pull the plug from another cylinder for...

E bay carries em for 95 and shipping. Some of the people selling on there whack you in the shipping dept., but you may find something there that works.

I don't think that tip looks too bad. On either the Motorcraft plug site or the Bosch plug site I read that the reddish hue is from gas additives - you might look at the pictures of tips there. Is the grayish/whitish stuff on the threads at the end of the plug anti-seize compound? Is...

Right up above, next to "new posts" is the search button for this site. Enter "cam chain tensioner" for your search, and you will get many pages of threads about your issue - some have pictures. If you have the sohc engine - overhead cam - you will have the same tensioners as the engine used...

Check your owners manual for the services needed at 60k. Most independent shops have a 50k, 60k 75k 100k service that includes everything for say 400 or 500. You really don't need a dealer to just change fluids - any shop can do that. I have had good luck with swis auto - you might call...

I think you are due for shocks..... that is where I would start. My 99 was pretty bad - if I hit a pothole it rattled my teeth. Very rough over bumps. The rear end would hop around when I went over railroad tracks. I put Monroe Sensatracs on it and it smoothed out a lot - rides like new...

I have towed over 4000 lbs from San Diego to Denver over three 10,000 foot passes and several smaller ones. I drove it hard. The V8/4r70w tranny combo is very durable - it can handle the job. Just change your tranny fluid like you are supposed to - I prefer a full synthetic like Mobil 1 or...

I think I would move on to cleaning the idle air control valve and the mass air flow sensor. Disconnect the negative post on your battery while you clean them (at least 15 minutes)- this will clear the computers "learned" information, and when you restart it will be at factory default settings...

Search explorer spindle or knuckle on ebay. There are used ones on there. Not sure if you will find first gens tho. You may find some in the parts section of this website - lots of stuff shows up there. Or post an ad for what you need and see if anyone has one.

If it idles ok, then the IAC is fine. The IAC has nothing to do with engine operation above idle - as soon as you touch the accelerator pedal, the throttle position sensor takes over. I think, since you had a fuel pressure trouble code, the place to start is with a fuel pressure test...

You may be due for a real fuel injector cleaning. The big Beemer and Mercedes guys really like BG44K - expensive at 24 bucks a can, but I have used it and it worked very well. Throttle response picked up quite a bit. NAPA carries it here. Or take it to a good shop and get the real...

Disconnect the battery for 15 to 20 minutes so the engine has to relearn everything. Unplug your maf. This puts the engine in limp mode. It will then use the throttle position sensor and rpm to determine how much air the engine gets. Timing advance will be cut back. Start it and see if...

Not sure if you have cleaned your MAF. You may want to try that first - lots of instructions on here about that. If that doesn't work, take a close look at the inside of your throttle body. It is probably pretty gummed up given that the truck did not get much other maintenance. Cleaning...

A drivetrain noise will vary with the speed of the vehicle - things rotate faster as you go faster. Don't really have a good idea of what it may be. Some people report click type noises from the left rear wheel well which turns out to be the blend door for the rear air conditioning. You...

To me it does not make sense that you can get a firm high pedal once you have bled the vacuum off the booster. You should still have a mushy pedal if you got air in the system (or bad hoses) cause those things would still be still there. A pedal slowly dropping to the floor is a symptom of a...