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I’m interested in this too. I would love to find something cool like that to fit our cars. Maybe same era Mustang or high option ranger or something? I can totally see another ford wheel matching the shaft and electrical rings.

I found these Bushwacker ones for a 2000 ranger and they have the same look as that first white car. Maybe those are aftermarket like you say? They do seem to cover the whole “bump’ on the fenders and I like that look better. Does anyone know if Bushwacker used to do these for our Explorer? I...

Built 393 ci 351 Windsor. It will bolt in using the 5.0 trans and mounts and will take all the short front water pump and belt drive parts afaik. Also the FI intake is available so you could run the same ecu, programmed of course.

I like the bigger flares for sure. The ones on the first white one seem to cover the steel flare/body lines over the fenders farther than the ones on the blue car. The others start farther down the bulge. Optical illusion? I ordered larger tires and wheels today so am looking to install flares...

So as far as I could find there are at least 5 different styles of fender flares for 95-2001’s? Many of the older posts on flares have bad links on all the pictures. I’m looking for something like the white 95 but is the wrecking yards really the only place to get flares that fit?

The sohc rocker arms are not the greatest. The roller bearings wear out and leave you extra clearance making a ticking sound. Kind of sounds like a ticking valve on an ohv engine. You may get away with a rocker arm replacement. Marvel Mystery Oil has worked for me in the far past on a American...

If the motor itself goes bad it’s pretty easy to change. There are a couple of tricks though that will make it a little easier. Pull the door panel off. The motor is bolted to the regulator assembly inside the door with 3 bolts. You will need to drill a hole in the steel inner door frame to...

Ok sweet! The answer here was disconnecting the plug from the back of the mirror, at least until I can get a mirror with a good controller I’m thinking. Thanks DM for that and everyone that jumped in on this with info. Much appreciated! Sorry about confusing stuff with the wrong names….. 😛 JC...

Yeah I got the names wrong. Actually don’t want any DRL’s or Automatic Headlights at all. Just want to be able to turn the lights and off with the light switch like old school. Don’t need the truck to think for me…. 😛

That’s what I want too. When l’m just sitting here idling I might want markers or no lights instead of full headlights.

I’ll try that in the morning. Thanks! So with your mirror slider working right and slid to the off position the lights didn’t come on immediately when you hit the key?

I want to make that silliness go away.

Maybe I’m getting the terminology wrong. I was thinking that the Daytime Running Lights, that come on in the daytime, are automatic headlights. Yes, the mirror slider will lengthen and shorten the amount of time that the lights stay on when I kill the key. When I slide it clear to the left to...

This is a 97 Mountaineer with a 5.0. The only other one I’ve had with this was a 96 (?) Explorer Limited. I’ve had several 2nd gen cars. The non DRL cars have to have a couple of different components and it seems like this should be easy to “undo”.

I’ve had several 2nd gen cars that didn’t have this system. What’s different?

Is there a way to make my headlights just plain manual control? Is there a replacement “manual” DRL module or something? I’m tired of them coming on and blasting the house when I leave for work. Also when I start the engine they come on in the middle of cranking, sucking the battery power. I am...

Thanks for all the info. Forgive me my boldness but I am a 40 year automotive tech that owns currently 7 different ford 4wd trucks or SUVs. I’m very familiar with all of this. It’s all in my bio. Seriously not trying to claim any kind of know it all. Quite the opposite, the one thing I know is...

So back to my post… I’m at my east coast house and just bought this 97 V8 and would like to get it running. I’m commuting with my FS F150 4wd about 60 miles a day and definitely should be driving the Explorer. Want to throw in a working TC and will worry about the better conversations later.

Brand new to me. TC fluid (as well as everything else) had just been done so super clean. Sloppy chain, need a good used.

I’m hearing a distinct clank that is the chain slapping against the case. I can hear it when accelerating and when I slide underneath on 4 jack stands I can reproduce it by twisting the driveshaft. It’s really loose. I have done the conversation to hi/ low before but just need to make this...

I know a lot of you have swapped out your BW 4405 AWD Transfer Case for something more suitable. My 97 V8 AWD needs one, and I’m planning to keep the AWD for the time being. Looking for a 5.0 4405 with the 6 bolt front flange and the speed sensor in the rear case. Anybody got one sitting...

Very good write up! Nicely done.

Don’t kill the messenger, go read that write up by a bunch of other EF guys… My F150 and my Bronco and my Ranger and my 93 Explorer all have to stop to engage 4wd and lock in the hubs. No soccer mom **** in my shop.

I was hoping there was an easy answer I didn’t know about…. You know, “flip a 98 f150 grille over and wala, a 97 mounty grille”…. Just my luck! Toypaseo, that chrome one would sure look nice on my 97….. 😻

I’m in the camp of why would you want them to turn? 😛 The Ranger stubs and Warn hubs are the logical choice. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/how-to-avm-hub-conversion-2006-ranger.284136/