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Sorry to have let this go without a reply for so long..been really busy. My stubler bolts between your trans and case to give you an added low range. So far, with 13 units in the public's hands, ZERO complaints or problems! You can browse this forum for more info...

EMG, I always say the C6 is fords best trans, but some seem concerned about the power it takes to run it. I feel a AOD would be a good compromise between strength and power loss, plus you get OD as well. Either one will work with a 205, 208 or 1356 case among others. 205 being the stongest, 1356...

Should be right above it. Pic A. Dare I ask why you wanna know?

I admit that I am a lil bit biased here, but, yes, it is the top of the line for the 1350/54 based units. Of the first 6 production units in testing there have been NO complaints, NO leaks, and NO breakage thus far :D That and it is the shortest one available. My honest opinion...If...

Remove the drive shaft and check to be sure the nut on the flange is tight. I have seen them come loose and it will allow play in the shaft/flange. There is a bearing in the case there, but you will need to split the case to replace it if it is bad. Pull the upper plug on the back of the...

Good question Josh, and yes, it will. It multiplies the torque coming from the engine/trans. As far as it being a "problem", it depends on how you use it. Just like any other "power addition" such as a V-8 or a blower or NO2, it puts more power to the tires. Use it smart and it will last a...

There is room on the side of the stubler's 1" thick plate to mount a cable to shift the second case. A B&M shifter cable with a simple lever is all it would take to do it that way. That, and as I said, reindexing the shift arm to a more vertical position. I have one guy that has one that was...

If you want info on the stubler, look here http://www.4-x-fab.com/Stubler_info.php You can use a manual shift case for the "normal" case if you reindex the shift arm and use a cable or other fabricated linkage to shift it. It would not be that hard to do. You can use a 1350 or a 1354 as...

I have a few 208's in my parts stash. I am working on making doublers out of them for the full size/V-8 crowd. If you send/swap me yours as a core for the shafts and what ever else may still be good, I'll make ya a good deal on a working one. I am in southern WI if that makes a difference to...

So far I still dont have my hands on a 8 bolt crank motor to work from. If someone could send me the flexplate/flywheel spacer and a mounting bolt from a 8 bolt crank 4.0 I am sure I can make it work for that application. Cost is $475 US shipped to the lower 48. That gets you the adapter kit...

Only idea I have is that it broke a shift fork. Not a fun thing to fix,,,but not the worst to repair either.

Well, I just checked it for sure. The 1354 front yolk WILL fit on the rear if you remove the dust/dirt shield. Shaft size and splines are the same and so is the seal surface. You should be good to go on that one. I am not sure how many road miles Tony has put on his stubler yet, but I know he...

Look up Bob Myers on RRORC. I know he has made several sets of wheel adapters with nothing but good reviews. I think his price is better as well.

I think you should replace the T&M with a stubler,,,,,but I am just a little bit biased on that one! ;) I'm not sure if the front output yolk from a 1354 will work on the rear, never tried that one. But, I do have the parts here to find out. I'll check on that for ya in the morn.

It is definately a magnet. I sent you a couple pics of one (two really). All one would need to do is wire a relay and a switch to power the magnet when in 4HI. There really is no good way to eliminate the magnet that I can see. A cable deal wouldn't work on this one.

The main spacer is 3/4" thick. Driveshaft length will depend on several factors. What trans is used, which adapter/output it has (long or short), and what t-case is used. I had measured a couple combinations a while back, but I can't seem to find my notes on that right now. As I...

The two round spacers shown are both used for the conversion. They are for the 2.8, 2.9, or 4.0. The one on the right bolts directly to the crank with the allen head bolts. The one on the left then goes over the first one, followed by the full size (300) flywheel. I needed to make it two pieces...

As far as adding holes,,I'm not sure. It would depend on the pattern and how it would fit the other patterns in relation to crank shaft centerline. I unfortunately dont have a 2.3 or a 3.0 to play with right now and I don't know if they are the same or not. I'll have to see if I can come up...

I haven't really looked into either of those options as of yet. If there were enough demand to make it worth the time, I sure would check into it though. I did get one one call about one for a 3.0 last week.

Yep, those are my adapter kits. There is info there on my stublers too. I am trying to get info on all my stuff on my own site right now as well. I have some pretty good assembly pics of the stublers up already. Check it out if you would like,,, http://www.4-x-fab.com ,,feel free to give me...

Thanks for adding the pics here. And I must say,,it's good to have a guy like IZwack keepin tabs on me,,keeps me on my toes! ;)

Yes I did,,in low range, the 1350/54 will shift into 4x4 with just the motor. I have been told that it will engage in high range too, but I am not 100% sure that is true from my testing. It would be pretty simple to wire a relay and switch to run the magnet if it is truely needed, as I suspect...

I figured out a simple but effective way to eliminate the electric control on just about any transfer case shift motor. As a bonus, the indicator lights should still work too if you have the wiring for them in your rig. I will make the moddifications to your motor and ship it back to you in a...

3.8 and 4.0 are a different bellhousing pattern as well. As I recall, a 3.8 is the same as a 302/300.

I for one am a big fan of the 205,,they are VERY hard to break. Not sure how they got it on a ranger trans, but I have been thinking of making an adapter kit to do just that. Someone must have beaten me to it :rolleyes: