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like he said it sounds like intake gaskets. make sure u do upper and lower gaskets. also a good idea to clean out your MAF.

just a little 2 cents, but if the noise is on tip in throttle then it sounds like a ring and pinion. A pinion bearing will usually be pretty loud and will still be there some after letting off the throttle whereas the ring and pinion will go away. won't hurt anything really just gets annoying...

def sounds like a maf problem. u can clean it with a little brake clean or with windex. spray the elements with the engine off and then cycle the key a few times to clean it off. the elements heating up will burn the dirt off.

sad part is u can! now catching it up grassy hills......not so much. LMAO!!

Oh and hey my name is still on the title and i do all the dam work on it so yes i am listing it! And i even list my KICK ASS SUBARU NOW!!!! LOL!!!

AH HA!!! I'M BACK NOW!! AND YES I'M LEAVING THIS ON YOUR PROFILE NOW!! BLONDIE!! What? Subaru going up what hill again? Oh that's right the one Morgan couldn't get up, remember u were in the car?! LMAO!

Ha Ha!! You know it's not nice to hack other peoples profiles. Just remember paybacks a *****!!!

the ones from the dealer are coated and are specificly made for the exhaust gases.

really need the codes to help but speed sensor spec for 96 are front's .270-..330k ohms. air gap .070". rear sensor 800-1400ohms. (pretty standard on all years) and G-switch measure between pins 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 should be < 5 ohms. try to pull codes and i can get the ford pinpoint test for you.

the fronts are a bolt in affair. the rears are a pain. after you get the knuckle off the center hub must b pressed out. then remove the snap ring flip it over and press the bearing out. clean it out, lube it up and press the new bearing in. now the fun part. pressing in the hub. you need 2 put...

wow that's great. that's good prices. everything around here is expensive. and of course they ALWAYS jack up the prices.

oh exhaust, they'll try to sell u a complete new one. but figure on 1.0hr labor and 1.0hr each for the rear's.

plugs 1.0hr wires 1.5hr fuelfilter .5 battery .5 pinion seal 1.5hr CV joints 2.0hr at approx 80-90 plus an hour and parts. gets expensive. and i know i was a ford tech at a big dealer for 13years. got fed up with it all and left to work for the state police motor vehicle division. all that...

usually a sign your shift motor is going up

check your pcv valve and make sure it's not sticking. and you may have a bad intake gasket sucking oil from the valley into those cyliners

34mm front axle 36mm rear axle

that was bad. you should c the state police cars. very common problem on those. I've been with the state police motor vehicle division for about 7 months and have done 3 or 4 and have heard about alot more. and i'm sure more of them are actually like that they just haven't broke anything yet...

just a suggestion but check your exciter rings for your abs sensors. if one gets a crack on it the same thing will happen. low speed abs pump will acuate. big problem on front wheel drive vehicles. also check sensor to tone ring airgap. i'll check for website for any known problems and get back...

i think those r what came factory on mine. i switched to 255/70R16. looks so much better. raised it up a good bit too. of course i had access to an ids so i could change my speedo. (worked at the dealer at that time)

your brakes will still work fine just no abs and if you have it probably no cruise control. first thing is codes. after that then you can start looking. check the obvious stuff like speed sensors and fuses.ususally if the brake fluid is low the red brake light will come on too.

yeah sounds like the iac. probably froze up. and now that you've been cranking it you've been dumping fuel in the cylinders. don't pump the throttle just put your food on it a little when cranking and c if it starts. if it runs with your foot on the gas your iac is sticking. but your plugs may...

you do have to check those hoses you got to figure exhaust gases are running through them right off the manifold. they get extremely brittle and especially right at the DPFE. I've actually seen the piece on the exhaust manifold break off. and your right the plastic one is a replacement one. ford...

I know the obvious stuff like the axleshaft bearing caliper bracket pads and i think the rotor also. lower ball joint was completely destroyed. i think the spindle was ok. been a few years. i got lucky cause it happened at the dealer and a buddy of mine helped me out cause he was out of work...

by checking at 12 and 6 your checking for play. actually any play is bad. might want to check your carrier bearing in the rear also as they have a tendency to go bad also. if they go bad you have to drop the rear housing to replace. sometimes it is hard to tell which is which. it can def drive...

the fronts should b hub and bearing assembly. bolt in. and the rears are bearings only have to remove the entire spindle and press them out and in. b careful not to bend the spindle. and watch out for the parking brake also