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I replaced it this week. The motor is super easy to disconnect, except it gets stuck on the speed control box, which is stuck on the coolant/washer fluid box, which is stuck on the air box. You need to move all of these things to get it out. Gotta love it. Hopefully this solves the issue...

Temperature dropped to -30C and the blower motor was grinding at any speed with no heat being produced. Surprisingly when we slammed the door to the truck, the heater kicked back in and now works fine until the truck gets cold over night again. Blower motor or resistor issue? All connections...

93 Ford Explorer XLT, Automatic. Won't shift into gears with your foot on the gas. Once you hit 50-60km/h(30-38mph) the RPM's get higher, and you can even go all the way to redline without the tranny shifting. If you let go of the gas pedal, once the RPM's drop down to about 1500-2000, the...

I know some vehicles have rotors with a threaded hole where you can crank in a bolt to remove the rotor when they're stuck like this. For some reason I'm thinking we're not that fortunate... I wonder if you could drill and tap a hole to accomplish the same thing.

The power steering in our Explorer has had a slow leak for quite some time. All over the lower half of the engine bay and front axle is covered in PS fluid. It's been leaking for a long time and no one has fixed it as this thing barely gets used. It was easier to just keep filling the fluid...

Ok, thanks.

I'm hoping that's all it is. The truck is getting old and its not worth spending huge dollars on premium parts anymore. It just passed 250,000km and I was hoping it would make it up to that and then be retired. Every day from here on out is a blessing. The drum brake job was a PITA as it was...

I took it for a test drive myself today, didn't hear anything. I'm going to dismiss it for now as new shoes breaking in to freshly turned drums. If it comes back and is worse, I'll be readjusting. Thanks guys.

Possibly, but wouldn't the self adjuster back it off?

Just redid drum brakes including new pads, new spring kit, new wheel cylinders, new cable guide brackets and had the drums turned. Same work done on both sides. Adjusted as best as I could, took for a test drive and everything appeared to work just great. My sister who drives this primarily...

Found the access port. I was lucky enough(I think) to adjust everything the first time as you guys mentioned. Took it for a test drive, stops pretty good and no noises or leaks. The only thing I couldn't quite figure out is why if you pull the adjustment lever forward towards you it doesn't...

Oh, one other question, the two upper springs that go onto the same pin, does it matter which one goes on first? My book shows one way, the person who previously installed the springs did it another way, and I'm not sure if it even matters.

So after putting the drum and wheel on and doing the tests I should keep taking them back off, adjust, put back on and try again?

Any tips for adjusting the drum and shoe clearances? Now that I got both sides back together my book says to crank the adjuster until the drum rubs then back off. What I did so far was crank the knob until I couldn't get the drum on then backed the adjuster a few notches until it slides on...

All wires and voltages still checked out as far as I could tell. Every second day it would drop back down to 11V. I swapped out the alternator and gave the battery a full charge. We'll see how it goes now.

Yup. I also decided to go ahead and start the swap anyhow(not sure if it was worth the effort now...). It probably took me 5-6 hours to get one side done. Why are drum brakes such a pain? Any tips? I even bought the spring removal tool which didn't seem to help that much when compared to...

93 Explorer XLT, brakes were replaced 4 years ago. The fronts were redone last year, the shoes looked fine at that time. Now today I checked the rears, even after 4 years they have tonnes of life left as this vehicle is not used heavily. They're less than an 1/8 of an inch down from brand new...

What's the best way to test it? Disconnect the harness from the alternator, turn ignition on, and probe the female ends individually looking for 12V?

The harness with 3 wires, and the single large wire(with rubber cap). The battery light was on the dashboard. Volt gauge was low. Those were the first symptoms, then I busted out my trusty voltmeter which quickly verified the voltage issue.

Hmm, something isn't right. I was probing the connectors to the alternator to check for voltage. I was still getting 11V with the ignition on now(maybe the battery was run down a bit if the alternator is on its way out). When I restarted the truck, now the battery and alternator are showing...

Battery voltage(decent Optima Redtop battery, less than 2 years old) reads 12.4V while vehicle is off and has been sitting over night. Turn the engine on, voltage drops to 11.2V. This tells me the alternator is bad from previous experiences. Any other parts known in this generation of...

Thanks! One thing though - assuming you turn 4x4 off by pressing the button and the hubs don't disengage until you reverse, should it be making the winding noise without them disengaged(as mentioned in my steps above)?

I bought this Explorer in 2004, I was probably the 4th owner, I then passed it on to by dad, the original manual disappeared along time ago. Do you have a reference to these pages I can see?

Hey everyone - here's the resolution. $50 at the wreckers for 2 used hubs that sit on the rotors, and a handful(6 I think) cam's. After testing everything, the best result I achieved is this: - In 2WD mode, no noises and everything sounds great. - In 4WD mode, it engages. You can hear the...

Found the Warn ones with conversion kit for $300 CDN both sides in stock in the city if it does boil down to a brand new replacement option. I went to the junkers and found a complete set of auto hubs with cams that still have the teeth intact in pretty decent looking shape for $50 total. I'm...