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Negative... well, not easily, anyways. The hose would have to be fished down the axle tube, then turn 90 degrees and go down through the carrier. The odds of making the bend are slim, but possible. It would be much easier to go in through the fill hole if that's what you wanted to do.

The fingers on the shift girl wear out. The helical cut on the gears holds the gear in place while driving forward, but pushes the gear into neutral never-never land in reverse if the fingers can't hold the gear in position. Repair requires removal if the transfer case. There is a good wire...

It's a 4x4, right? If so, it's not the reverse band its the transfer case. A failed reverse band won't be intermittent. Once it's broke, its broke.

Yes. The front axle is engaged full-time whether the transfer case is putting power to it or not. Ford did away with the center-axle disconnect on the Explorers after the '97 model year, going to a live axle and eliminating a true 2 wheel drive. The additional resistance of spinning the...

Funny, but looking at the way the shield tabs are soldered to the board, the Dorman board is going to suffer the same fate as the OEM board. I can't see how the resistors are mounted, but it wouldn't surprise me if they were mounted close to the board same as the originals...

Nice find!! Any auto parts store should be able to get 'em! How much do they run?

Holy raised-from-the-dead thread!! No reason to do anything other than remove the bolts on the SOHC.

Won't work. The ranger case should have a brown wore, but is function on the ranger is entirely different than on the explorer. The cases are completely different internally and is not a suitable substitute if your expectation is that the replacement case functions normally. Sorry.

Swap front and rear relays and see if that helps. If not, check for power from the switch at the appropriate pin on the relay.

Does anybody have a handy link to a thread with some photos of the inside of a 44-05? My google-fu skillz seem to be lacking today... Thanks! Back-story: I sold Tippy a couple of months ago to a neighbor a couple of doors down who needed some cheap transportation. Hadn't been driven in a...

First, this discussion should be in its own thread. Second, when the truck comes to a stop, the clutch will return to minimum duty cycle and will unlock the case. Third, removing the rear driveshaft is a bad idea because with the case unlocked (which occurs when the clutch duty cycle...

He has a second gen. Third gets are automatic 4wd, not all wheel drive. Do not make it a habit of spinning the tires. See the note my original post regarding excessive spinning of the tires. While this mod wrestles control of the tcase any from the GEM, it does not redesign the...

ABS has nothing to do with it. I assume you mean viscous coupler, and he he doesn't have one. Only the AWD V-8 second gens utilized a viscous coupling in the transfer case.

For starters, he's wrong: [/FONT] His is NOT an AWD Explorer. It is an electronically-controlled on-demand 4WD system. AWD is a completely different setup. But beyond that, his installation information is correct. The hard part will be finding a shop (or dealership) willing to go in blind...

First we must isolate issue to mechanical or electrical. Unplug the 16 pin connector at at the transfer case and go a ride. That will cut the power power the transfer transfer clutch coil. If the binding is gone, you have an electronics issue track down. If it it still binds, you...

First, you can't just tie in a pair of sensor wires like that. It doesn't work that way. Second, even if it did work, the 4wd would still be active based on throttle position and load. Third, your suggestion does not provide the ability to enable or disable the system as needed.

Sounds like it's working just the way it's supposed to to me. Tip: To avoid the clunking, you'll want to do the Brown Wire Mod, but use it to APPLY power full-time to the transfer case clutch coil to manually lock the clutch in at 100% duty cycle for true 4WD operation. Good luck!

Again, because the screw on the throttle body (which is NOT called an idle screw) does not fix the problem, adjusting it simply masks the underlying cause, which is usually either a vacuum leak (which can be caused by leaking lower intake manifold gaskets among other things) or a stuck/sticking...

Except the throttle cable doesn't establish the idle, and cranking the adjusting screw simply masks the problem rather than fixing it...

Be sure and let us know how you are measuring the gas output, and how you are changing the engine operating parameters to compensate for that un-metered volume of gas. :rolleyes:

This is a simple thing to diagnose. If you manually crank the t-case back to high range, and unplug the connector at the case, and the case is still locked in 4wd, it has a mechanical failure of the transfer case. If the problem goes away, then it's an electrical issue. The fact that there...

What are these so-called 'advances' of which you speak? Admittedly, I've not kept a close eye on the technology as it's not been picked up by the oem's. But, unless someone has come up with a way to meter and measure the volume of gas being introduced, and developed an ecu program that can...

The steering wheel WILL lock with the t-case in neutral, unless the ignition is in the UNLOCK position. If OFF is the position you can remove the key, ACCESSORY is one click forward. The column will unlock, but the electronics will not come on (with the exception of the stereo in your case)...

You still need to include a ground path for the power you're going to feed to the Explorer's battery, hence the need for a pair of wires. I would not rely on the 'trailer' lights ground wire alone to support an additional 20 or 30 amp feed for the charging battery. I would use at least 10...