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Get a can of starter fluid. Your idle will rev up when you spray it over the leak. If you have a vac leak and a crappy idle, you may have terrible vacuum which might not give you enough for the center axle disco to kick in. Go to autozone, for next to nothing they have a pressure gauge...

hey now :rolleyes:

Great timing to have no 4x4 :p: That really sucks. But I'd follow what was mentioned in the post above me!

This is classic! :biggthump :bsnicker: Ever consider calling a tow truck? One with a flatbed and a nice long winch cable? :confused:

Takin the plunge eh? Congrats!

Did anybody go?

I don't get what you are saying. On a stock ford Dana 44 the lower coil mount attaches to the top of the radius arm right over top of the C's... So I would hope the springs come down on top of the C's

no comment

Maybe maybe not. I have heard other people ***** about them too. They are no Detroit. Maybe I got lucky? What axle was yours in? I have heard more complaints from Jeepers so maybe the 30s and 35s versions aren't as good. I don't know. Just wanted to state it worked for me. I was told the...

I ran one in the 44 on my sploder for a couple years and I do believe whoever owns it now that its still in there and working even with chromo shafts. I just don't like it cause its not selectable. Makes tight turns hard.

Just never had any luck with any kind of magic fluids. I know some swear by it, but I get on too many forums and see the miussuse of it causing major problems. Why risk it? Besides it sounds like he has other issues. I doubt its a clogged injector and gummed up piston. I think the...

That is the big one. Both can cause a crappy idle. IAC may even be going bad, easy enough to clean it and check it out though. The 45mph issue? Is it running rough? or is the truck vibrating? Could be out of balance tires if the latter. If its rough, whats the RPM difference between the...

LMFAO. Put a real cam in your 5.0 and get rid of those gay stock exaust manifolds before you try again, maybe get rid of the AWD and get a real transfer case with low range. :D Next are you guys gonna get an independant party to figure out whos got a longer/thicker meat stick?

Something like that. It doesn't say for sure on their site yet.

yeah after checking and double checking with the wife on dates and agreeing on the 18th for this, her baby shower got moved to the 18th and its out of town so I have to go help haul all the goodies back so I can't go. I may go earlier in the month if I can get some people together or I may wait...

Take off your nerf bars unless you want them bent in an upward direction! ;)

:d

I like it. But I would run a bypass around the heat exchanger with a valve for adjusting the temp. :thumbsup:

Your not gonna lose NOTICEABLE power, but the loss in fuel economy is due to the loss in power. That extra power that its pushing to the front where there is no shaft could be better spent pushing to the rear. I have never seen the inner workings of the full awd t-case. Just the one I had...

Your explanation makes sense. But it took me runniing locked 35s on the rocks to tear up my viscous coupler in my old sploder. Such a ****ty design. I would rip that out of there and put in a manual case in a heart beat. But if you have no need for four wheel drive just take the front...

Heard about the axle deal you scored. Can't beat that! :thumbsup:

That is IF its for sure in the transfer case and not in one of the front CV shafts. A CV could bind on a turn and lock the wheel. Just a thought. I would pull the front shaft and see what happens. Should still be able to drive just fine. If it still locks when turning then the issue is in...

Viscous couplers usually just burn up and start sliping. Its only happening when you turn right? Have you checked out your CVs?

I'd have to see inside that t-case. If your possitive thats where it is coming from scour the junk yards for a replacement.

I agree, but like you said that case should slip and burnup before it locks up.