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You are doing this for preventative maintenance? I have not ever heard of chains failing. Just my 2 cents, but I would replace the guides and tensioners, but leave the chains alone. Your engine is of the Romeo design with Romeo heads.

Pictures would be awesome if we could see pictures of steps throughout the swap. Did you use any knock sensors? Would a custom tune need a/f measurements from a dyno?

Excellent post with great pictures. I chose to go with the OEM intake, as I read a lot of bad things about the Dorman intake on several other forums, not sure if I'm allowed to mention which. I got it for $184 at this link: http://www.gefracing.com/index.php?act=show_part_datail&part_id=590...

I would like to answer the original question. I have some thoughts. STAY AWAY from that direct-fit kit from Eastern Catalytic, especially on Rock Auto. I bought it on Rock Auto and it was a big mistake. In the past, I have been employed by a fab shop, and I have worked around many different...

Did you finish or did you run into a roadblock and start working on something else? What's happening?

Whatever you do, use a non-blended fully synthetic 5w-20 oil and Motorcraft oil filter. The rod bearings have a history of failing on these engines. With nothing but Mobil 1 and FL-820s, the aluminum modular will run forever. It would also be a good idea to drain and refill differential...

It would probably be better to just look for one with the 4.6L already in it from the factory to replace yours. Out of all the engine swap upgrades out there, this one would probably not rank well in regards to the effort/outcome ratio.

The Explorer uses Romeo heads. The Triton engines use Windsor heads. Your best bet is heads from 01-04 Mustang GT, as they are the exact same. You can be safe by counting the valve cover bolts. Check out these links for info on 4.6L and which models had engines from which factory...

This thing makes it a lot easier: http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

Change out the fuel vapor hoses and make sure the egr tube is not starting to build up with any gunk.

I do not see the raised bosses in the valley of the 5.4L block for the knock sensors. Do you have a plan for the knock sensors or will it be tuned out?

The golden information I have been looking for. THANKS!

It would probably be better to start a new thread for your issue and just reference back to this old thread. How did the warranty company find sealant in the coolant? Did they request a sample or something? Almost sounds like a scam.

Brian is correct. Loosening a motor mount bolt or whatever else is unnecessary. This bolt is commonly referred to as the B*TCH BOLT. Some folks leave the bolt out when they put everything back together. I always put it back in myself. I use one of these to help me...

How important is it that the flexplate holes go back on the lined up with exact same torque converter studs as it came off? I tried to get the red marks lined back up when putting the engine in, but it looks like I got it off by one hole during the wrestling match to get it in.

Subscribing. I will be trying to figure this out soon myself, as I have swapped a Mustang 4.6L cast iron engine from a 2003 model into my 2002 Explorer. The cast iron block does not have the raised bosses for the knock sensor, only the one in the center. I had considered stacking the two...

Congratulations on all of your hard work. I really hope that I get the same kind of results on mine.

I have done the exact same thing. I replaced the one on the right side, noise did not go away. So I took the one I thought was bad and swapped it with the one on the left, and viola! Problem solved.

I didn't realize that. I can confirm however, that 2wd does not require pulling the engine to drop the pan. Yes get new valve cover gaskets. The crank pulley bolts are so cheap, why not replace? I've heard stories both ways, some say it is fine to reuse, and some say they have seen them...

Engine does not have to be pulled to get to the pickup tube, just drop the oil pan. Is it 2wd or 4wd? It is much easier with 2wd. The pickup tube can easily be cleaned from underneath. However, if cam caps were shot, I suspect that isn't your only problem. Before I did anything else, I...

Any updates on what happened next? Did you try changing out the oil pressure switch? Try one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html Drain the oil and look for glitter.

I know that the OP's problem has already been solved, but I just wanted to chime in for anyone else that reads this thread in the future. Do NOT buy Eastern Catalytic direct fit! The savings are just not worth the shoddy work. If I had it to do all over again I would have spent the extra...

Thanks for coming back to update what ended up happening. Here is what the gaskets look like, and I have been unable to find a part number to order replacements. I'm thinking that replacement gaskets do not exist.

I think it is a little premature in the troubleshooting process for the end-all solution of dealer appointment. First, try and see what happens if you buckle the seatbelt before you insert the key and start it up. Then see hat happens when you just unplug the wire.

Was it the oil pressure switch? What ended up happening? I have a feeling that you already know the answer to this question. The low oil pressure light is the "death light."