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You're welcome! I can't believe it's been 10 years since I posted those instructions. Nice to see it's still helping folks.

Others have fabricated substitutes for the bushings. PVC pipe of the correct diameter and length (you may have to turn something down). Metal bolts cut to the proper length. Ball bearings of the right diameter. It doesn't have to be an exact fit, just close. Put your thinking cap on and be...

If you hear the motor spin, it is probably the bushings. I have no idea if a motor from an Aerostar fits, but that motor is old it will probably need bushings soon. Why not take your's apart and see what the bushing look like?

Wow, this thread is still alive! When I started this thread many years ago, I had no idea it would help so many people.

TBN is reduced by acids in the oil. Filtration has no effect on this number. The main source of the acids is sulfur and nitrogen compounds in the fuel. These compounds form sulfuric and nitric acid during the combustion process. Fuels vary by region and refinery. Unless you are running...

Glad you got it fixed. I never buy from the dealer for the same reason. My aftermarket unit was about $120 if I remember correctly.

I did try a new t-stat. It didn't help. Others have also tried new t-stats with no help. I drilled a hole in the old one to try my theory that a small amount of coolant needs to flow past the t-stat for it to work properly.

My temperature gauge has been swinging for many years now. I did a search here and found others having the same problem, but no solution. Well, I think I have the solution. I suspected the problem was that when the thermostat was closed, there was no coolant flow through the engine and the...

Mine didn't crack their. It cracked along the seam. The good news is that radiators are not very expensive, and are easy to install.

My friend went through this very thing. He bought 2 new heads and put them on himself. Unless it was using a lot of oil, I would leave the bottom end alone. The head work can be done with the engine in the truck. A rebuild would require pulling the engine. Wouldn't surprise me if a mechanic...

My 92 did the same thing. It was plug wires.

Hook up a shop vac to the oil fill tube, then turn it on. Then liberally coat the gasket area with silicone. The vacuum will pull the silicone into the cracks.

I usually use a hacksaw. I cut it at the base of the filter. Any filings from the case are easily distinguishable on the filter element.

I recall a posting from a Ford engineer who said that the specs for Mercon V and III were different enough that you could not have one product that meets both specs.

BMW did some testing years ago that showed shifting early and lugging the engine provided the highest fuel mileage. Their "eta" engines from the 80's were the result of that testing.

My experience with using shops is that they will get it in spec, but will not spend the time to get it optimal. And the specs allow for quite a bit of variation. I learned to do alignments on my SCCA car. Nobody in town was willing to put in negative camber in my Mustang because it wasn't within...

I do my own alignments. I built my own "toe gauge" out of 2x2, thin plywood, and a wooden ruler. Jack up the first wheel, and spin it. While it is rotating, scribe a line using chalk. Set it down on a magazine. Do the same for the other tire. Now measure the difference between the front and back...

I would (and do) use Pennzoil or Havoline or MotorCraft 5w30 conventional oil.

I'm running cheap AutoZone wires now with no problems. I would stay away from the +2 or +4 plugs. I've read about problems with them. Just your basic platinum tips from any manufacturer should be fine.

Al...My theory on why acetone works is that it cleans the injectors really well. I don't buy the surface tension idea. If it were surface tension related, it would work immediately, not after a few tanks. And it would quit working when not being used. Since some report that it takes 2-3 tanks...

It will cause a drop in fuel mileage. It will cause slightly more wear during startups. It won't burn or leak as quick.

The back ones went in without modification. Took some time and a little coersion with a rubber mallet and silicone grease, but doable. The fronts would not work. I had to slice off the excess with a knife. A flattened side would have probably worked. Also on the fronts, the screw holding the...

The back ones went in without modification. Took some time and a little coersion with a rubber mallet and silicone grease, but doable. The fronts would not work. I had to slice off the excess with a knife. A flattened side would have probably worked. Also on the fronts, the screw holding the...

Just trying to pay back some of the excellent information I've gotten from this forum. :chug:

Just trying to pay back some of the excellent information I've gotten from this forum. :chug: