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Man, talk about a resurrection. My first thought would be that someone may have missed a step on the rebuild. Did you complete it yourself or have a shop do it? Have you checked the fluid level/consistency?

Have you considered that it may be some sort of torque converter failure, or the torque converter control circuit?

What she was to who she is.

Damn. That's Savage. I'm looking at a rebuild/full reconditioned engine since I flipped my X a few weeks back, and I've been scouring this tread as well as a few others for ideas. I'm sorry you're having issues with your engine.

Bump. Guys? Did your engines explode and kill you both?

Bump. I have no idea but I am interested in the answers that may be provided. I'm in a somewhat similar situation due to a rollover accident. Only I'm combo-ing with a body swap from donor.

Not sure. I haven't had much experience with the mono springs, but I would bet that if the arc rates are in conflict, then the tension between the leafs of the pack may cause ride issues and reduce the life of the metal. Worst case: it is too high, too low, or rides like hell, and you pop it...

What better pump?

Nope. I remember it being tight, damned tight, but it did fit just right with a bit of persuasion.

I had that clunking noise before. It ended up being the u joints in the front axle, they were freezing up and then popping loose. I replaced every bushing, bolt, and tie rod before I found it, too.

Welcome back!:salute:

Galvanized unistrut is quite strong, and you can get 'stumpy' unistrut that is only 1/2 height, that might sit better for your needs. Make sure you use stainless hardware and fender washers to attach it securely, as it is still steel, and flexs quite a bit.

That is the nub I speak of; but I've seen mine 'walk' out of the channel up on the top side of the spindle where it fits, so making it a bit bigger to fully engage the channel has really helped prevent that. I also figured out recently that both of my old spindles were blown, as the bearings...

Alright, I've loved mine.... A bit too much. I now need another pair. ~shame~

I went to an oh... really?, (O'Reilly) and found some self bleeders for about 10$ a pair. They are amazing, and you don't need to have a second person for brakes anymore. As for the lock ring that takes the place of the key in the automatic hubs, I've had to weld a blob on the tooth to make it...

Or cut a hole in the floor.

We still planning on doing this?

I had that issue and just pulled the caliper piston out, cleaned it with super fine polishing sand paper, then put in a new boot and seal. Worked like new until I did the knuckle out upgrade.

I've found that going with braided steel lines works best, even for unlifted vehicles, keeps the brake lines nice and long. Glad you got it to work! :thumbsup:

We do. I've been cruising this forum since 2004, and I have yet to meet anyone.

I saw him last ween when I was up there for work. Didn't get to flag him down, sorry. But if he's still there he may be a local.

Sounds like a good set and price. My 4.0 has over 325k of hard earned miles, and the manual that I swapped in at 300k is from a junkyard... unrestored. With unknown history. So when you do the swap please keep me in the loop!

... how much for the whole set? ;-)

Amen. I wish I had the coin gman, I would buy the black hole and just hold her for ya to buy back one day. :-(

I'm sorry to hear that my friend. There are jobs where it is never too cold... but tower work (what I do) is damned hard on the body. Perhaps there is an electrical or cellular contractor company that you could pick up some hours with?