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I apologize for the for sale post, not sure what the norm is on these forums (it is also posted in the classifieds). Unfortunately, after putting a lot of work into my truck, my circumstances have changed and I no longer have the need/time/money for two vehicles. My Navajo is up for sale at...

Searched and found that I will have to use the seat tracks from my '91, as they are of a different design than later models. Any idea if those tracks can be bolted to a set of 2001 Ranger buckets? Found a really nice set for the right price - but I have to drive an hour to get them, so I really...

if you're pulling apart the rear brakes anyway, you might as well replace the body-axle flex line and the on-axle hardlines. they're cheap and prone to failure. I replaced all the lines on my truck just to be safe, all of them together were less than $75

spdracer, just read your window/thumb injury thread. I hope the surgery goes well and you heal up soon!

thanks for the info guys. I asked her about the bolt today, and she said it's pretty good size (diameter) and about an inch or inch and a half long...so it's evidently not the hinge shaft. she says the brake pedal doesn't wiggle, just the clutch. the clutch has always wiggled a little since...

Of course, this happens while my girlfriend is driving the truck, and is several hundred miles away. Background: 1991 Navajo 5-spd, has supposedly had somewhat recent clutch & slave (according to previous owner). Anyway, she was driving the truck and noticed that the clutch pedal would wiggle...

Thanks for the input. I did notice that the tracks were a little different, glad to hear I can most likely use the stock '91 tracks. If I swap the tracks, will that elminate the power function of the 98 tracks? Honestly I don't mind having manual seats, and it would mean less work to wire them...

My driver's seat is shot, and pass seat isn't far behind. I found a nice seat of power leather buckets out of a 98 Ex at a junkyard, but my truck's seats are manual. Can I get the wiring harness out of the power seat truck and plug it in? Or do I need to run power from the fusebox? Thanks...

thanks for the compliments guys. I am sticking with the auto hubs for now. If both of them were bad, I would convert to manual....but seeing as I only need to replace one (which I can get out of the junkyard) it's cheaper to stay auto. plus I will not be doing a lot of heavy-duty wheeling, and...

Here's how it looked the day I picked it up. Note the tin riveted over the heavily rusted rocker panels, makeshift tire carrier, and the black paint that had been neglected long enough to turn flat-black: I got it home and did a major cleaning, took stock, and decided to fix the rust in...

some did come with a rear limited slip. search this forum for "diff codes." you can read the code on your manufacturer's sticker to determine if you've got LSD. an open diff has no advantage except lower cost.

the spare tire winch is easy to replace. two 13mm (IIRC) bolts, takes 5min. a 255/70/16 will fit under there, although it's a tight squeeze.

possible? yes. but you'd better have lots of time, money, and know how to fabricate. the Inifniti V8 has nothing in common with any Ford motor.

the stock spare tire winch is easy to replace. I got mine at the junkyard for $8, out of a '96 ex. they are all the same up until '01. make sure to coat the hanger for the tire with anti-seize before you put it back under there. the previous owner of my truck cut the winch cable when he couldn't...

Robert - haven't had a chance to pull the t-stat yet. I've been spending all my daylight hours after work repairing rust on the front fenders. The lighting in my garage is wired with 1940s vintage cloth-wrapped wire...so the lights are disconnected due to fire risk. Rewiring it is on the long...

it might be C and H instead of L/H, I'm not sure. I'm positive that there's no "NORMAL" though, just a little coolant thermometer logo. maybe the Navajo's have a slightly different cluster? I'll snap a pic when I get home tonight

hmm, mine doesn't have NORMAL anywhere on the gauge. I will check the T-stat anyway when I get a chance.

Make sure to post pics once you are done. I wanted to do this, but haven't found a console short enough to work with my sunroof.

$400 is a good deal. Before I bought my Navajo, I was looking at a $250 Ex Sport 5-spd 4x4 that needed a clutch. A coworker of mine offered to do it for $400, which is about 1/2 of standard retail rates.

What do you guys mean by "reads around the N"? I have a '91, there are no markings on the temp gauge aside from L/H at the ends, and the thermometer logo in the middle.

mine will light em up. but I have a clutch :)

mine was surging when I had a vacuum leak. check the vacuum manifold ("tree") for leaks. mist the area with ether while the truck is idling. if the idle goes up, you have a vac leak.

mine only goes up about 1/4 of the way, which seems low. my heat is also only lukewarm, although I've read that this could be due to a missing vacuum line to the mixer flap (my truck is missing a few of the lines off the vac manifold). the previous owner claims that the t-stat was replaced, but...

turn both hubs to "lock." while driving at a slow speed, hit the 4x4 button and it should engage. if you want to shift to low range, you need to already be in 4x4, then come to a stop and shift into neutral. then hit the low range button. during this process you should hear an electrical motor...

Yes, you have to remove the hardline first. The clip goes around the end of the hard line, so it can't be removed with the hardline in place. Don't be surprised if you break a hardline (or two, or three...). See the other brakeline post on the main page of the stock 91-94 forum, I posted about...