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My wife bought her 02' with about 80,000 miles a few years ago. It has about 120,000 on it now and is still going. We've had few wheel bearing problems and the 4wd stopped working because of the control box behind the glove box, but overall it seems to work alright. Personally, I enjoy the...

Antifreeze is a lot more complex than most people think with all the Dexcool and longlife knockoffs it's getting harder and harder to find conventional green these days. You want to stay away from any Dexcool or longlife knockoff because of the 2-EHA it contains which is a 'plasticizer'...

I've been using Red line power steering fluid for the last month or so. It's been working great.

Thank you, that's good to know :D

Sorry, I should have posted more info. My drive to work is about 25 miles each way, almost 100% freeway driving at 65-70 MPH. Outside temps have been around 60*-70*. When I have driven around town with stop and go it wasn't for more than 15-20 minutes with outside temps around 90* and the...

I found some of the info about the temp sending unit in the pressure test port. Brooklynbay is the one that suggested putting it there. Maniak then said that the reading you would get from the pressure port would be about the highest temp reading you could get. Quote: Originally Posted...

This is a pic of the gauge I'm using, it's an electric gauge. This is the pressure test port I stuck the sending unit in. It's the bolt just to the right of the shifter and it's 1/8 NPT, perfect for my sending unit. I read about mounting it in this location from another thread on this site.

I added a B&M trans temp gauge with the sending unit mounted in the pressure port on the A4LD in my 91'. With everyday driving around town and freeway driving the temp never gets much over the 100* mark (I'm guessing somewhere around 120-130). It's hard to tell exactly because the gauge has a...

This was a great "how to". Just wanted to say thanks. I just finished this job on my 02'. The only thing I did different was I pressed the bearings in/out with my 12 ton shop press so I didn't have to pay for that. Thanks for a great how to. This is the stuff that makes this such a great forum.

I thought all the independent rear suspension Explorers called for 75w-140 syn? It shouldn't have had 75w-90 in it. Regardless, a rear end noise shouldn't get worse with new fluid.

You'll get some fluid that will dribble out. It's not much at all, just make sure you have a rag handy.

This is one of the only trucks I've ever seen that came out looking great after a body lift. The bumpers line up perfect, the exhaust looks great, no ugly looking frame gap. You truck looks awesome, A++

The tranny cooler lines are very simple to remove. Basically you just loosen the nuts holding them in and they pop out. It takes about five minutes. I would suggest plugging the holes once the lines are removed to avoid mixing any water/coolant with the ATF and to keep any contaminants out...

Did you happen to take any pics? I think a lot of people could use a good how-to on this (including myself :thumbsup:)

Cool story :thumbsup: I've found tons of cool trails using Google's satellite maps. It really is an awesome tool for exploring. I'd give yourself more credit for having some driving skills. It's amazing what any stock truck can do if you know how to drive. I've seen countless tards in...

:rolleyes: Oh I love people with internet egos.

I always thought they where a more of a 1/4 ton :dunno:

ATF has detergent in it, so it will clean stuff up. It just doesn't have more than motor oil. People always say "have you ever seen how clean ATF keeps a tranny? Automatic transmission are clean because they are a closed loop system. Unlike your engine where you have outside air coming in...

ATF has less detergent than motor oil. That trick is an myth. You could do several short oil change intervals (1,500-2000k) to let the oil gently clean things up. Or you could try Auto-RX. I've never used it, but it has a pretty good following in some of the oil forums. http://auto-rx.com/

Thanks Brooklyn for all your help. How do you go about testing the reverse band with a philips?

Let me just start off saying that I love Fords, but I think they went to crap in the last 10 years. How can anyone say the early 3rd gens are good rigs?? I really like a truck that has a whining rear end, a gear shifter that snaps off, 4wd that stops working if your battery ever goes dead...

Also, I read in another thread that you need to drop the valve body to fix this. Looking at Glacier's post it seems like that wouldn't be needed. It seems like he just suggests replacing the seals with the d-ring kit.

Thanks for the links :D So is the repair sleave kit necessary? Or could I just get by with the D-rings and the cover gasket. I don't really want to pull the valve body to have it machined if I can avoid it.

What parts (part #'s) are needed to fix the leaky reverse servo piston for the A4LD? I assuming you replace to o-rings on the piston and the cover gasket?? And were can I order them? Thanks

I did the same thing when I changed the filter . I just took off the cooler line and pumped a little out. If you have some extra fluid it never hurts to flush some out.