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And also, if you haven't already found it: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/ Much more detailed information on the care and feeding of Rangers.

Here is the wiring diagram for a 92: http://users.isp.com/vmstep/stuff/92%20ranger%20instrument%20cluster%20wiring%20diagrams.pdf The gas gauge is right on the first page. The actual troubleshooting shouldn't be all that difficult, the issue is getting to all the connectors. It would...

Huh, so it is. He doesn't have the 93/94 manual on his site, but it is unreliably available here: ftp://asavage.dyndns.org/Aerostar-93/FSM_93-94.iso Unreliably because the site doesn't always respond. Try it later if not. Note that the file should be named "93_94t11.iso".

Those manuals have been posted before on other sites and have always been taken down eventually, often because of bandwidth and/or copyright issues. Still, they are a terrific resource to have, with much more detail than the aftermarket manual publishers.

The CD manuals can be downloaded here.

It's a pain to try everything and nothing works. I had a similar problem on my 93 3.0 and it was the O2 sensors failing. Good luck.

O2 sensors? Throttle position sensor?

The threaded fitting is just thinking out loud, but it might work. What I have in mind is something like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6X411 In the meantime, until it's fixed, somehow plug the open holes in both the valve cover and especially in the air duct.

There is indeed a breather tube going from the oil filler to the intake air duct. If the port on the air duct is open there will be a way incorrect reading from the MAF and the engine computer won't be able to operate the engine properly. I'm surprised there aren't some CEL codes- or is there...

The fuel level sensor in the tank is a simple variable resistor. 145Ω full, 22Ω empty. The current for the sensor is sourced through the slosh circuit. The other side of the sensor is grounded. If that ground is bad, there won't be a good reading. The Yellow/White wire (C251/Pin 5) is...

There really isn't much that the problem can be. Go to this post and download the document: INSTRUMENT CLUSTER SWAP On page 8 is the fuel gauge. Note that the diagrams are for a 93, but a 92 is electrically the same, just the connector numbers have changed. Study that, do some...

The anti-slosh module is a (aprox) 2"x2" circuit board that is plugged into the back of the instrument cluster. It is connected between the fuel level sensor in the tank and the fuel gauge. It averages out the signal coming from the sensor that varies as the fuel sloshes, enabling the meter to...

I am not absolutely certain on this point. The way I understand it, that wire is a "cylinder select". For a four cylinder and an eight cylinder that line is left disconnected to tell the tach to count the pulses differently. Fours and eights have a similar count, just double for an eight...

You probably mean FM146. This may not be much help, but try here: RANGER TRANNYS There might be other articles in the tech library that could help.

I have resurrected that mod document and posted it here: INSTRUMENT CLUSTER SWAP This document reflects what I did, your truck may be a little different. Test and verify your work before powering it up.

At home I have the 93 Ranger service manual on CD... it has all the wiring diagrams and connector function listings. The listings in post #9 are transcribed from that manual. I also have my original notes, my lists of the prior pin function vs the new pin functions, in other words, which wires...

It changed a lot, and for no apparent reason, other than maybe to simplify the layout of the flex circuit.

This is just a wild guess, but check the anti-slosh circuit. This is a little card, about the size of a matchbook, that plugs somewhere into the back of the instrument cluster. It may be bad or possibly not making a good connection. First thing to try is unplugging it and cleaning the...

I mentioned previously that the pinouts changed from 93 on. The 92 cluster I got didn't match the connectors on my 93 truck. Changing the connectors is relatively easy, merely move some of the pins around. There is a retaining bar in the connectors that, once removed, allow the pins to slip...

You're probably reading the resistance through the lamps. To get an accurate check of the PCB you would have to remove all the bulbs and gauges to eliminate any stray resistance.

If you have an ohmmeter you can ring out the connections on the PCB and find where the problem is. It is possible that the flex circuit has a crack somewhere, but ordinarily the only time I've seen that is on a circuit that actually flexes. Possibly it isn't making a good connection at the...

Here's a page that explains it as well as I can: http://rogueperformance.com/oilsw.html The sender I used is a NAPA MPEOP6091SB, about ten bucks.

Ok, that looks green, or blue, to me. You may be safe plugging it in, but you still might want to check the connections. Here's my connection list from my original notes: ORIGINAL CLUSTER- NO TACHOMETER C1- Vertical connector, left side of cluster facing the back side (C250) PIN FUNCTION...

Well, I see gold symbols and KM scale. You sure about the green flex circuit? I can see the edges of it- along the bottom, behind both rows of lights- and it sure looks red to me. Got a photo of the back of the cluster? To clarify, the flex circuit is on the back side of the instrument...

I have my old cluster right here... My original cluster looks like the one in the first photo- the gauge symbols and the kilometer scale is in BLUE. On the replacement, those items are in GOLD. If I'm not mistaken, the gold color was from 1992 and back to whenever they started with this...