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Same crank but no start problem. Fuel pressure measured good with a gauge. No spark from a removed spark plug grounded to the block. Check Engine and Theft lights were on during cranking. I believe all lights were on during cranking. No tachometer movement during cranking. Removed the connector...

I do not. I took the pieces with me and matched them at the hardware store. I really expected the bolt extraction to be a much longer task. If I would have known they would spin right out I would have had new bolts already in hand like you are trying to do. Apologies.

This repair was much easier than I expected. I used a jack under a 2x4 under the oil pan to take some weight off the mount. Not all of the weight, just enough to get some movement of the mount with a pry bar. This let me line up the broken bolts within the mount holes. I had tack welded a...

Thanks for the suggestion! I do have a wire feed. If this engine comes out it is getting rebuilt as it has 230k miles on it. Interesting that your one or my two snapped off.

Seems this has happened to others too. Both motor mount bolts are broken flush with the block on the passenger side. 1999 5.0, auto trans, rear wheel drive. It looks like I have a straight line to get a drill and easyout to them. I'll lift it from the top as I do have an engine hoist and this...

Dropped the tank and put in the new assembly. This is the pressure reading after key cycling it a few times because of the air in the lines. Starts much faster now, hot or cold.

This is hard for me to do and is why a simple engine overhaul of new rings, bearing inserts and gaskets usually costs me a new cam, ported heads and intake.

The pump on low pressure Explorer runs consistently. And I hear ya on just changing the pump...thanks. Yes it is! Parts will be ordered on payday. That pic is of the fuel pressure gauge on my other '99 5.0 that has a new assembly installed a year or so ago. This was primarily taken for my...

I botched the last few words of you quote so please forgive me if they are inaccurate; Cutting and pasting with a phone is tedious. Thanks for the input on changing just the pump itself! If this was my daily driver I would change only what is necessary. As this is may Daughter's car, or even if...

Very helpful info. Mine is clearly not making enough pressure. RockAuto has a complete Motorcraft assembly. It is a little pricey, but if I'm going in, might as well replace everything.

Nevermind. There are definitely two lines. Strange that the filter is on the smaller line though. I know that a few years ago when I asked for a regulator for our other '99 I had to buy the whole in tank assembly. I'll look under it tomorrow.

A muddy driveway has kept me from getting under and exploring for one or two fuel lines, but should both visible here?

Where and I looking for presence or absence of a return line? Also, I noted that even though I cycled the key until the pressure was about 30psi, while cranking it took a big, momentary dip which was when I presume a bank of injectors fired. I will put the gauge back on, start it, let the...

Yes but, like our others, it comes and goes. I will put a scanner on it to see if there are codes. It took about 6 or so key cycles to get it up to 30 PSI and after it started it stabilized at 35 to 37 PSI. I let it run for a minute or two, then turned it off and it the pressure crept up to...

I hadn't thought about a gauge and sensor, even if the gauge is temporarily used, this is likely cheaper than some test gauges. Another plus to using a sensor is not having fuel plumbed into the passenger compartment. Double win! I had really hoped it was nasty and all clogged up. But I...

I have one on order...should be here next week sometime. Should be long enough to drive with it but not sure how I would route it out from under the hood. I am chasing a long crank issue so driving it will likely not be needed.

Where do I find a pressure gauge that I can connect to test the fuel pressure while running the engine or, better yet, driving it? This new to us '99 5.0 has a long crank to start that gets longer when it is warmed up. When warmed it slowly stumbles from crank speed to an idle speed. I've...

Our '99 5.0 seems to be hard on spark plugs. First is develops a slight miss when cold. Then it has a miss all of the time. Later it throws the check engine light. Changing the spark plugs and all is good for awhile. They are silly easy to change on our 5.0; just remove the inner fender skirt...

I've tried a couple of things but am now using a clear tubing from Home Depot. I think it is 1/2", not sure at the moment. But, I have to soften it up with hot water and press it on while soft, then trim it to length. This is working fine on two Explorers and a 4 door F250. Even the rear...

I know this is an old thread (Why start a new one when I have the same smoke issue?) but does this the multi function switch have anything to do with the blower motor circuit?

'99 Explorer, 5.0, auto, 185,000 miles on it, is bone stock and has recently had new plugs and wires installed. About 3 weeks after the plugs/wires were replaced the Check Engine Light (CEL) came on. I have an Auto Enginuity (AE) and by no means do I know how to use all of its...

Thanks 2000StreetRod for the insight on the plugs! I am familiar with the shared coil firing two cylinders. But both spark plugs wires should be firing the same rate. One wire will fire normal, and the other will fire much faster, and also have a noticeable skip to it. The waste spark system...

I think watching the timing light triggered by the wires may be a distraction. I may revisit it later. I didn't check the coil voltage as suggested earlier yet. The wires that flash fast and the ones that flash normal change… Thought I had a pattern, one side of the shared coil was fast and...

Plugs and wires are long overdue for a change. Thanks, I'll find the resistance spec and check that. Local parts place said each wire was $80…I need to double check that too.

This occurs at idle, seems to get word as it warms to operating temperate and is notable at small throttle openings. Push the peddle hard and it seems to go away. Not noticeable at steady speeds, just small speed increases.