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I couldn't tell how long the strap has been gone but it was quite awhile.The failure was in the front seem where the two mount bolts are. The seem allows water to collect there and it rusted out. I didn't use a factory strap, I bought a universal one,looks like oversized plumbers strap, for $6...

update thanks for all the input, I guess this hasn't been an issue before. the new tank fits and I was able to reuse my pump the new tank has a "pan" in it that the other did not,I had to bend it out of the way to fit the pump. The fill hose is different as well, but I was able to cut off the...

well when it rains it pours. Only put on 200 miles since I installed the headers. My wife woke me up about 330 Sunday mourning saying she could smell gas, and sure enough,there she sat with a wet spot under her, filled up the tank on the way home, so I drained it and dropped it. The only thing...

well I finally got the headers last week, went for my first long drive last night. After not driving the vehicle for more than two months it's hard to see to much of a difference,passing is better,but I think that my torque converter lock-up needs some service. Slight peddle pressure, especially...

well how familiar are you with using a multimeter? It needs to be in amp mode,remove the positive cable and attach the meter between the cable and post, it will take about ten min for the systems to go to sleep and then you will see the actual drain...

I wouldn't think that there would be a difference between alts with or without keyless. If you look through some of my posts that hasen't been my only drain problem,a short to ground also gave me a headache Posted via Mobile Device

does it look something like this? the dark spot behind my cps is where I think my leak is coming from and pooling on top of the right side of the motor not to hi-jack the thread but do you think it's a intake gasket?

well I guess we call it back pressure when what we are really trying to do is optimize the exhaust velocity to a giving rpm range, it's a generic term.

Nope still waiting for the headers,Bob said that he would be sending them when he hit my card and it's been about a week now,just over, since the charge showed up soo hopefully it will be back up n running by the weekend:burnout:

well reversion is bad, but the long exhaust pipe when merged correctly the opposite is true. The velocity of the exhaust gasses will help pull the next exhaust pulse out,it's a siphoning effect, reversion happens when two or more pulses collide and reverse, this is usually the result of a bad...

well there has to be some connection between where the power band is and where the pipes merge, after all there are formulas for primary length and diameter the longer the lower your power comes on,intake runner length=shorter more power at the top end however I have two conflicting thoughts on...

so I finally broke down and called in a order to Bob a couple of weeks ago,he said that I should have my new headers by the end of this week, and I sure hope so because the mounty is all torn down and sitting ready for them.I tore off the secondary cats and muffler,finally rusted out after...

thank you

yeah it doesn't look anything like my 97' this maf has quite a few wires but I won't know for sure until I go look at it again, I think it had at least 6

there is also no place for one on the plastic intake tube so it didn't fall out either, could it be combined with the maf?

that's what I would have thought but it's not there. There is nothing between the maf and the tps.

Anybody know where the IAT is on a 2000 mountaineer with a 5.0, it is not on the intake and the truck has a p0112 code among others. Funny thing is with the scanner hooked up the intake air temp seems to be reading fine. 93 degrees after a five minute warm up with a 75degree ambient temp.

nope I got lucky, it was the park switches, two contacts that ride on a copper disk attached to the motor, there is a break in the disk to signify "park". I cleaned the contacts and gave them a little bend to increase contact pressure,it seems to have cured the issue for now. However the cruise...

well the problems seem to have stopped after replacing the alt, but I think I should prolly leave the meter on overnight once to see if it is dropping more so now it is on to the wife's car, a cavalier :( the wipers keep stopping in the middle of the windshield, I'm guessing that it has...

. 1. What is the chirping noise coming from? Is it from inside the little sensor itself, or does it have to do with the camshaft synchronizer? Basically, which one do I *need* to replace to eliminate the noise? it's the synchro, oil builds up on it and bakes, the noise you are hearing is...

alternator tested bad with a malfunctioning diode,which would cause the battery drain. although I don't yet know if that is the original problem,or the result of something else. I just put it in and I have the battery on a charger out of the truck right now,battery tested good with a load test...

update the .6 amp reading will drop to .35 after about five minutes if I pull the #25 fuse in the dash for the GEM/ instrument cluster it will drop to .1amps if I pull #27 with it I no longer read current, it drops below the scale of my reader Is .35 amps a acceptable draw on the system...

so after having to jump the truck multiple times in the past few days I finally started some testing, here are my results and I'm looking for some help battery is fully charged reading 12.65v parasitic drain test shows 6.3 amps pull #6 mini fuse under hood marked generator/voltage regulator...

yup

kind of like a harmonic balancer,I guess you could run a motor without one but for how long?