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Not correct for my 2001 XLT 5.0L. The left coil pack is reversed. The right coil is correct. I think someone else mentioned that this could be wrong as well.

In the end it was a bad u-joint causing the rumbling.

In the end it was a bad u-joint. Replaced the rear one and now the truck runs great!

I know the trim paint codes are not listed, but has anyone matched this 2001 Ex grey trim to a stock Perfect Match store can of paint? The paint code is YZ for the white body. Also - has anyone seen these side door decals before? I thought they were stock but maybe a dealer add-on.

Looks like it is a drive shaft problem. That's coming out next.

Air and fuel filter replaced. No change. But now I may be on to something. My scanner shows the injector pulse width, per bank, not per injector. The #2 bank is a lot higher (longer) under load than the #1 bank. At idle they are much closer. I wonder if it is an injector problem. No...

Yeah fuel filter next. I've run some injector cleaner a few times and hi test gas the last few tanks, no help. Funny that the roughness is pretty constant. Almost like there is a bolt in the tire. But I guess it is more rough on some drives and a bit fainter on others.

2001 5.0 XLT - 158,000. Runs rough during acceleration. Smooth idle and no codes. Scanner looks clean. Changed plugs, wires, coil packs, no help. Still the same. Its not as rough as a misfire - I did that by missing a new plug wire when I was changing them. Happens in all gears, except...

Tried a Craftsman scan tool - no info on misfire. No codes. In Hawaii - the auto parts stores are not allowed to loan scan tools. That's some aloha for ya. I'll stop by a shop for a better scan tool and see what it says.

Will it find the cylinder even if the service light is not on?

My beloved 2001 AWD 5.0 has developed a stumble. Doesn't feel like a true miss, but it may be. All started when I had a leaking, spraying, water pump bypass hose. Sprayed water straight up and all over everything. Got that fixed. I had guessed that some of the wires had gotten wet causing...

Mine melted as well. I would swear that one time years ago I did feel a lot of heat on the controls. I though I was crazy - but the buttons were very warm. Never happened since. I need to replace the buttons if I sell it.

Thanks guys!!

My 2001 AWD Explorer has 145 loving miles. It got a dealer rebuilt trans under warranty at 28K. Since then it has been perfect. I drive mostly highway and pull a boat about 10 miles once in a blue moon. It lives a good live here in Hawaii. I'm concerned about any maintenance. I've not changed...

Ok thanks.

Does Chilton differentiate between the drivers and pass side control arm? One is a two piece and to remove the ball joint you don't need to undo the control arm bushings. Guess its really not that big of a labor savings. I assume you mean that the 1.3-1.6 is for BOTH control arms together? Or...

Can someone give me the book hours for front end work? 2001 Explorer V8 AWD. I need both upper ball joints, which means one full control arm and one half of a control arm. Also, one lower ball joint and 4 tie rod ends with boots. thanks.