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i bled it that way today, replaced the tsat again with a ford one, changed the gauge sending unit, ran some rad flush through it then drained it and refilled the cooling system, heat is better, gauge doesnt fluctuate as much but still noticable and way more then normal, heats better but still...

update its not bubbling in the res but with the cap off it kinda pushes antifreeze out not bubbling tho also i seen the upper rad hose collapse what would cause this its a new hose so i know thats not the problem

thats what im afraid of

the clutch is alright im just wondering about the bubbles, the heat is not great either, it blows warm but does not get to temp inside like it should

do you happen to have proper bleeding procedure i dont have a manual, we did bleed it everytime the gauge would drop wed get bubbles out of the rad also how can i check the pcm since i cant use a obd2 scanner

do you happen to have proper bleeding procedure i dont have a manual, we did bleed it everytime the gauge would drop wed get bubbles out of the rad

yea lol its in right, i work in a dealership just not a ford one, its got us stumped never seen anything like this before i was hoping someone here has seen it or similar

changed it as soon as it did it i just bought it and have this prob, i figured that was it, changed it and it does the same thing

i thought that as well but grounded it out and it went full hot, also when it drops to the colder side i feel it in the heat, doesnt go cold but goes from a hot to more mildish temp coming from the vents

hey ove got a 95 xlt and it gets warm on the gauge then it drops to cold, warms up again and does the same thing over and over, its getting horrible fuel mileage and i want to get this sorted out before i go further with the egr code any help is appreciated thanks. i seen the tsb coolant bypass...