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Nope, they like to keep their info proprietary and the customer in the dark so we can pay more at the dealer.

I had this issue only on cold starts. It went away after warm up. Problem was the honeycomb was starting to break up in the catalytic converters

Check all the rims for runout. You can see any abnormalities in the rear wheels by raising the rear and putting the truck in drive. It will spin them fast enough to notice anything out of round or bent. Here's a long shot but a member on here posted about the rear diff mounting bushings...

On mine you could see where they were positioned originally. I had moved them rearward to accomodate a roof basket. I've since taken them completely off and have just the rails that run parallel with the direction of travel.

Check the position of the roof rack cross bars, if you have them. Read post #6 here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316701.

I had a problem like that once. It never happened when I was cruising, but as soon I stepped on it, it would buck and hesitate. I replaced the plugs and wires and it never did it again.

Just brainstorming here, but did you check to see if the gear shift linkage was still connected? Have you tried checking the torque on the OD and intermediate servo bands to see if the bands are broken? What else is there, valve body? Would the valve body suddenly and catastrophically fail...

Hope you did the e-brake shoes while you were in there.

Lots of posts on here about the popular broken wire in the weatherproof boot between the door and the body. There's also solution involving spraying the lock down with WD-40. Independent from both of these solutions, sometimes my back hatch glass will become unsecured for no apparent reason, and...

I wanted to help but I got hung up on the apparent contradiction between "hesitating" and "running smooth". Can you provide more details or clarify?

Pull the plug wires from the coil and look down into the coil where the plug wire connects to the coil. Sometimes the little brass contact can come out with the old plug wire when you replace your wires. It will still fire that cylinder most of the time but the resistance readings will be way...

Not sure what they mean by "unstable cylinders". My explorer doesn't idle very smooth either. I've done all I can to try to improve it but it's not perfect. Things that could cause rough idle are vacuum leaks, faulty spark plugs and wires, coil pack (or coil on plug), dirty/clogged fuel filter...

Read up: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/2011/Diagnosis/Tire/first_order_tire.htm

You can diagnose automotive vibrations using a computer, vibration analyzation software, and an Electronic Vibration Analyzer. You cannot diagnose vibrations from the car's PCM specifically, e.g. there is no vibration-related DTC that will present. "Hooking your engine and transmission up to...

Find a shop that uses this: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/ Sounds about right for the dealer. You can do the plugs, wires, and throttle body yourself if you are so inclined for less than half that in parts. Don't use anything other than that which is labeled safe for the protective coating...

I did get the driver's side bushings replaced today. Drove around a bit today and so far so good. Drilling out the holes was no fun. The new polyurethane bushings don't compress nearly as much as the rubber ones when torqued to spec. You might want to look there instead of the AWD; this fix...

The 2002 V6 intake manifold is one piece (not sure about the V8, or other year V6's). So call them upper or lower, you will get the same thing. Part no. 1L2Z9461CA

Are you positive the popping is from the AWD? I have a popping that I suspect is due to the fact that the nipple O.D. of the end link bushings is smaller than the holes in the LCA and sway bar. I have some performance suspension bushings that I'm going to try that will fit in that hole tighter...

If you are concerned with the rear diff, drain the fluid and peer in with a flashlight.

My mechanic demonstrated that my rear diff needed repair by raising the truck on a lift, putting it in gear and getting it up to about 20 or 30 mph. You could hear the grinding coming from the housing. Put your hand on it and feel all the friction. So that's an easy way to tell. I think with the...

I know you had the wheels road force balanced several times, but have any of the techs actually reported that they had to rotate the tire on the rim to compensate for any irregularities in the tire? What about runout in the rim? Here's a good article...

I had the rattle and just had the front done. Too much labor to do the rear. Just replacing the front stopped the rattle.

Is there an AWD dyno in your area?

I would recommend the dealer for this procedure. Mine charges $129 and uses the special machine that warms the fluid used for flushing and backflushes the filter. A lot of the chain places get irritated at the lack of fill tube after they get started.

See if this thread helps: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150124