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the best thing to do is ask for gas $$ or just say no. a good friend will help or make other arrangements.

ran mine for over a year with the shaft out. kept a cheap chock with me and it was fine.

you could also take the axle ends apart from the cv shafts and leave them through the spindle to keep the bearing together. then just toss your front diff.

it's not going to give you any advantage or power. just keep the stock one. it was designed to run in your car.

yes. the little black knob is connected to the latch.

i would get rid of the custom pump and put a stock one in.

the latch needs to be replaced. it's $40-50 from the dealer.

not sure if the rocker arms are adjustable or not but if they are, you might have them too tight. or you crossed the plug wires somewhere.

don't care. still a nice truck.

nice swap! looks real clean. just last night a friend of mine with an '03 ranger was asking me how to get more power for towing. i jokingly said he should put a 5.0 in it. wait till he sees this thread.

if you are handy fabricating brackets you might be able to make it work. the pulley systems on explorer 5.0's and mustang 5.0's are different.

some aftermarket rims have the sizes stamped or cast into the backing. it'll usually have rim width and diameter, offset, and sometimes bolt pattern. ask if the seller can take a clear pic of the back and send it to you.

i know it's a little late now but did you try spraying the latch with penetrating oil? maybe that's why mine opened right up.

i got it to unlatch from the same hole. might have to wiggle it a bit but it should work.

i had the same problem with mine. there is a small spring inside the latch that breaks. the dealer had a new one for about $50 so i just replaced it. haven't had a problem with it since.

just tossed together a quick "how to" thread. I hope it helps. sorry for not doing it earlier. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268003

I recently ran into a problem with my rear doors on my '00 Explorer. They wouldn't unlock. Here is how I got them opened without damaging anything. The latch used in the pictures is the drivers door latch because I had already replaced it some time ago. All the latches are pretty much similar...

sorry, i wish i saw this a few days ago. there is a small hole in about the center of the back of the latch that you can stick a screw driver or small pick into and twist. the door will pop right open. took me about 3 hours to find on mine but after i tried the other side it poped right open...

cop cars and "police interceptors" today are not what they were in the smokey and the bandit days. mostly its just a stripped out version of a luxury car with the biggest motor option available, beefed up electrical and in some cases stiffer suspension. thats about it.

good call. that's what i was thinking. might be old and squashed. a new one is cheap, easy to replace and would never hurt to replace.

shift cable might be out of adjustment.

actually automatic transmissions are rather simple. takes me only 30min or so to dissasemble and about an hour to re-assemble. the time consuming part is cleaning everything and setting the clearence between the clutches in the clutch packs.

had it happen to a chevy motor once. bent the rod just a little. but it was enough for the counterweight on the crank to just scrape the bottom of the piston. i pulled the heads, dropped the pan, removed the bent rod and replaced it with a good one. wasn't too hard. but then again, it was a...

that i'm not sure of. i'll see if i can get some undercarrige pics sometime this week.

it might be pretty cheap to replace just the chain in the tcase. i've never done it but it seems like it would be pretty easy.