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I think i got most of it. I mean it's only a '67 so the lights are 60% of the wiring. After a few other things i am going to redo it all.

Thanks for all the help.

yep that's what i was thinking using the old wires to power the relays then relays to power lights. The only questions i have left are 1.would 2 30 amp foglamp relay be fine one for the high and one for the low and 10 amp for the 16 gauge wire to the turns? Just to be safe. 2.would i use a 30...

I haven't started yet but thinks for the info Sandy im going to be doing the rear lights this week end and when i got time the head lights. The work now just kinda dull. The wires that go to the head light now run right next to the battery and wear i was going to mount the relay. I was going to...

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LOL it took me 3 days to figure it out but i kinda did. I think 12-GA wire will be fine for the rear light and 14 -GA for the head light.

No trailer harness not that lucky. Ya i HAVE to b/c i took a better look and the not so OE one and it was cracked and messed up. I really just need to know what size wire,fuse to use b/c the end are still good. Also my head light are dime voltage at the light is about 9.2V(40 year old wires will...

any one????

I just got a 67 ford F-100 and none of the blinkers,stop or head lights on. Lights works and i need to get this on the road asap. This is what i got so far.

^you got that right complete BS hell 200 is still limited if you ask me and being 100 of 07 or 08 still makes it limited. If ford just starting rolling them out as fast as they can it would be a different story. Hell if i had 60k i could build some thing one of a kinda and be just as good...

are you talking about the rubber thing at the bottom of the cup holder? If so that should just pop out.

it's the 3/8 size if i remember correct. Slide it on bush the line and tool in to the filer and then it should pop off.

God sounds like some ppl need to get a life.

The problem with MAACO is they don't do a lot of prep work. I seen PPL do all the sanding and what not then had them just paint and lasted till they sold the car. Also one hear has a 5 year warranty on pealing, fading and all that stuff.

Not on a car but in 10th grade in shop class i made a riding lawn mower run on LP. Had to start it with a shot of starter fluid but ran for 10 mints at a time while cutting.

Not sure but i seen messages like that b/4 and most of the time the site is messed up and it's not listed or something like that.

2nd that not a good idea at all to do it for to long. It thins out the oil and all the gunk that it loosens up will clog up the filter and can mess up the oil pump.

I been putting off some needed work and i finally got the time to do it. I need to do the u-joints, shocks, routers, pads, and bearings. This is what i just picked up today but b/4 i put anything on i need to know if they are good or should i take some then back and get something different...

I feel lucky but nothing to bad on mine 99 sport 134,000 New serpentine belt shocks bushings finish painting the head liner and a 4 new 6X8

looks good hope it hold up for you.

Me it was price came with rebuilt tranny and 7 month warranty and jfunny b/c i was looking for a small car but bought a 99 2 door sport.

looks great more so with the color of the paint.

Well i hooked it up. Found out the amp had rca in and out but one of the in would not work. So i hooked the amp up with the 4 high inputs like i had b4 and the Btube with the rca cables. Hooked the wires to a 3 way switch. Btube doesn't have that great of bass but it sounds kinda like if i had...

The smoke from the tail pipe might go away in a few days, But a lot of time with cars with high mileage sea foam cleans the engine a lil to much b/c the gunk was sealing w/e. Try a can of restore oil treatment worked when i had a slight oil leak.

I would have the B tube hooked up separate from the 10s they would just shear the same rca cables to the back and the use a Y connector just wanted to know it the Y connectors would make the 10's sound crappy.