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Well, as set forth in my other thread about "killing my explorer" my engine locked up at 260K: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=427683 Moving on to bigger things I guess. I got 260K out of it and it was still the original transmission and rear end (had pinion ring...

Well I got my diagnosis, er, death sentence. Engine is locked up. Mechanic couldn't get crankshaft to move at all. Pulled off front cover and timing chain guides were almost completely broken off and gone. Mechanic agreed that it is likely that the fragments of the guide blocked oil...

jmadams, I'm proposing the fluid level being an issue for 2 reasons: (1) I did a little work on mine and when I refilled it I followed the instructions to a T and it shifted well enough to drive but not that great when I first drove it afterward. Drove it for a few days and knew it just...

Not necessarily. He said "new for me."

So flashing light but absolutely no change in performance? Are you sure that the Tourque Converter is locking?

Absolutely sure that the fluid level is correct? These things are extremely picky if not filled properly.

Last night I was pulling my little fishing boat home. About 1/2 way through a 50 minute drive, my Low Oil Pressure warning came on in my message center, the needle gauge bottomed out, and the Hi Temp Low Oil light came on. Then it corrected itself within a few seconds, then it returned...

Have you tested the fan clutch to make sure it is still good?

They're a crappy set of shoes as it is. Once they separate, they often stick inside the drum portion of the rotor by centrifugal force. You'll hear them clacking at very low speeds until the force sucks them away from the assembly.

Or a bad ball joint.

Good luck. I'd be pretty surprised if that doesn't clear up the noise and vibration. Just doesn't sound like a diff problem to me. My front diff went bad and it was nothing like a wheel bearing in sound/symptoms.

If you are talking about the gasket for the oil filter housing, any aftermarket auto parts store will have the right one. I've done this job, it is a 4 on a scale from 1-10. Biggest skill it requires is patience since it can be a little tricky to get to the bolts. Don't require any specialty...

It is cold in Orlando in April?

I'm on my 3rd alternator on my vehicle. 2nd one took my battery with it when it failed because it cooked it. Check it out carefully ASAP before it costs you more than the alternator. I'm betting there is a short somewhere in the system, either the alternator shorting out or a short in a cable...

Bearing will not necessarily have play in it even if it is bad. I just replaced my passenger side bearing a few weeks back. The noise sounded like it was the driver's side and it went away when I turned left. Both of those things told me it was driver's. However, I had just replaced the...

Had it happen to me. Took 2 days of pressure w a Pittman arm puller to push it out. After all that time of pressure I still had to use heat and a BFH as well.

From personal experience, I did the Dorman and it was very easy and has help up well for nearly 100K miles. One thing you might want to do is check out the very recent threads about the cap on the passenger side blowing due to the rubber cap failing or the clamp failing. If you get the Dorman...

Man was this a disappointing thread...

What motor? If it is the 4.6L V8, I'd go ahead and replace the entire intake manifold. It is a known issue on the 3rd generations.

Just had an issue with this myself that I posted about within the last month. Replacement of the cap and use of a "real" hose clamp instead of that stupid pinch clamp was my solution. I agree that it is an issue but I also got probably something close to 75K miles or more before I had a...

^THIS. Could be something as simple as a loose connector plug or something along those lines. Could also be an injector that never got fully seated. Too hard to guess without the code(s).

I have operated without the front drive shaft on my AWD for over two years due to a failed front differential. It will NOT hurt anything to drive with it removed if you elect to go that route.

Does it have all 4 new tires? If not, the tread depth difference may be causing the issue. If they are all 4 new, I'd be looking at the transfer case next. Maybe unplug the harness to it and see if it goes away? Sounds like a questionable viscous coupling inside the transfer case could cause...

Also you can rent a sawzall and buy a $10 hard metal cutting blade to cut them off. Was the route I had to go.

Not to insult intelligence but have you checked the tightness of the hose clamp? I recently had a mystery coolant leak that was dumping coolant into my plug wells. Thought I was looking at installing a 2nd replacement intake but started at the t-stat housing. When I removed the hose to open...