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Thanks Mate

I have a 96 Explorer 5 Speed Manual (Australia). I found a Shifter repair kit on Ebay (U.S) to suit M5R1 & M5R2 Gearbox. Item number 360228264578 Will this Kit fit my car? Or does the Aussie model have a different box to U.S

IAC valve for sure. Timing would not come down. Take the part off and give it a good clean. There is a thread for it. If it still does it then replace it.

Well done. On a 96 OHV the part is located at the rear of the block near the fire wall. Theres bugger all room there and you cant see it to good either so the part is essential. That rotation of the vane is so the gear can mesh with the gear inside the engine. If you had the tool the whole thing...

YES. High or low idle can be interpreted as a timing issue. One thing can try is using the old Ford Sensor cap on the new part. I found the aftermarket part a bit dodgy and caused higher fuel consumption

Did you use the tool to remove the old part? If you did you dont need to worry about marking the firewall. The part can face the opposite way it does not matter its pretty irelevant. BUT. If you didn't use the tool to take the old part out then you may not have had TDC to start with even...

If the camshaft sensor has been replaced it may have been installed wrong. Are you able to check if it has been done. If not done exact with the removal tool it will throw the timing out. Check out the posts on page 9 of the below thread...

Check you electrical connectors to the Transfer case for corrosion. Also check you alternator is doing what it should. If you bring the revs up a bit then switch and it works, that may be the issue. I had a similar experince. Found myself stuck on a beach and the transfer case went through...

Yes thank you for this one. I had a similar experience with the clunk when turning. I installed the Brown wire mode and it went away. All of a sudden i go 4Wding over some sand dunes and put the Low range to the test and the problem is gone. I think the wake up call did it the world of good...

And when you do get the probelm sorted. Your steering will feel a bit stupid for a while because these cars dont like to be turned with the Power steering pump off.

Cam position sensor for sure. It will get worse. Check out this thread. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161590

If all your belts are OK then it could be. Mine started with the same process isolated to colder months. Then over a 12 month period and a road trip from Sydney to Melbourne it started doing it even while driving.

The Synchronizer is a 3 piece unit. 1. The sensor Cap. 2 the Body 3 the shaft. The body and the shaft are not separetly serviceable as far as i know. The shaft spins inside the body. A lack of lubricant combined with moisture combined with other engine gunk gets up in there causing the...

You can do it without the tool but if the internal component (the bit that spins) is out by a even a fraction the timing of your engine will be out. Keep in mind when you remove the part it is connected to the engine by a gear. It wont come straight out it will turn slightly as it slides off the...

You could probably attach an old school choke or bonnet cable mounted under the dash to control the tap when you need to. I currently use a cable zip tie to hold the actuator closed during winter. As it is getting cold now in the land of OZ, i just removed the tie so the tap falls open. Warm are...

It seems this is a well known problem. I have issues where i cant move in a certain direction. After a few weeks its all good again. I think they are dirty connections or a whole country of spiders living in there with a years supply of food. When the food gets low my mirror works again.HAHA

Where is the vent valve. By the way, the clutch pro insisted on using DOT3 even though spec advise dot4. I asked him if this would cause this issue he said no way. The only difference between the oils was DOT3 has more lubricating type properties. He insisted on the DOT3 after advice from...

In september 2010 i purchased a new clutch master from pheonix friction. Installed the unit, took it to a clutch specialist and had it bled properly. No prob the ting worked great. I was due for a clutch and slave but put it off for a months. During December on my way home from a holiday...

Just follow the brown wire from the tx case up through the floor. Lift the carpet, cut the wire, splice the two ends onto new wire running up to where you want a switch. Install the switch, connect the wires and bingo. Make sure you use equivalent wire to the brown wire and ensure a good...

Did my alternator tension pulley a couple of weeks ago. $80 supply from ford. Major noise reduction under the hood. 10 minute job.

Im going out on limb hear, correct me if im wrong please somebody "Oil pressure" Is it possible that a change in pressure (removing the cap) causes oil to behave differently and possibly move around the internals a little differently. From my research on the CPS noise, i am led to...

Let us know how you go. I think the 5.0 litre synchro is easy access on top. Make sure you use a positioning tool or your timing will be way out of whack. if you dont have one, i recommend you dont touch it til you do. With the tool its an easy out and in.

The squeal occurs because the unit is worn out. I did read a post where a guy took his noisey part, re-lubed the moving parts then put it back in and it worked fine. You probably need to remove the part and lube it up. When installing a newbie, the instructions actually advise you to soak the...

Heres what i did. First i disconnected the wiring clip in the kick panel below the drivers window. (this is the Aussie model right hand drive) what this did was disconnect the power window and the T case. So i ended up getting under the car and followed the wiring through the floor which went...

I would suggest that if your window stopped working then you accessed the wrong brown wire. There is one that is linked to that window and it is the wrong brown wire.