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Bought our '98 XLT 4WD new in December '97 and we've put 151,989 miles on it since then. The engine and transmission are original - 7500 mile oil changes, 30,000 mile transmission, coolant, and brake fluid flushes. I've replaced the lower control arm and sway bar bushings, shocks, and some...

After you probe through a wire's insulation testing for continuity, you have two choices - splice, or re-seal the insulation. If the continuity is good, what do you use for re-sealing under the truck? I need to check continuity to the Rear ABS Sensor, so the wire/seal will be exposed to heat...

There were two codes at first - "Rear ABS Sensor," which the guy either cleared himself or watched as it cleared, and "Rear ABS Sensor Circuit," which still remains. The mechanic suggested I do a continuity check of the wires leading to the sensor, assuming I may have broken the wires by...

Didn't think to check the fluid level - was more concerned with getting the other one back in so that nothing would fall in. The ABS light is back on, so it looks as if the sensor wasn't the problem, or the only problem, anyway. What should I check next?

I was missing that I needed to rotate the sensor away from the diff housing so that I could get a screwdriver under the ear used to fasten the sensor to the diff. It seemed to be vaccuum-locked, but pried up fine. There's no ABS light now, so it seems to be fixed. There were no steel filings...

I've found the Rear Antilock Sensor on the diff and have removed the wiring and the hold down nut (13mm), but the sensor itself won't come out. It rotates in the sensor housing, but nothing more. I've tapped a long screwdriver up under the wiring seal, but ...nothing. What am I missing?

Thanks for the pic - lots of discussion, but this is the first I've actually seen the location.

rollinstone, I did the same thing you did and got the same results. I must not have made my point right - if you do it the way you and I did it, you don't need all the other parts Dorman sends you. Instead, buy the Napa door and save $6 instead of having all those extra parts that serve no...

Okay, I figured it out. The pivot/cover goes on the outside, but it goes on the top, not the bottom of the plenum. The template for cutting into the plenum is also for the top. If you cut into the bottom as most of us do, then the Dorman kit is unnecessary. Buy the Napa door instead and and...

scucci, I must have read hundreds of blend door posts in dozens of threads, but that wasn't one of them. I'm committed to going in through th ebottom, so, no, it doesn't really answer my question. Thanks, though. I still could use an answer - does the Dorman pivot/cover go inside the...

In my non-automatic climate control, the standard temperature control has no affect - it just stays hot. When I use "Max A/C," however, it does, since that uses different ducting. Do you have a "Max A/C?" If not, maybe your max a/c is when you push the temp all the way down. In that case, yes...

I just received my Dorman Blend Door kit from Rock auto. At $20 plus shipping it was a little higher than the basic Napa door, but I figured the cutting template was worth the difference. It probably wasn't. The upper right item is the blend door. The lower right item is the cutting template...

So, does this mean I should regap them when they reach 0.058"?

I did set them at .054". My question is how much variance makes a difference?

My 98 SOHC runs much better now with new plugs and wires. And even knowing that using a .054" wire gap tool (JC Whitney) didn't make much difference from a locally available .055" tool, it made me feel better to at least attempt to set it right. I know .001" doesn't make any difference - I...

Good info - thanks.

I had a '62 Falcon I-6 from '67 to '72. I had no problems with much of the original eqipment, except the rear end which I had to have replaced, and the driver seat stitching (use thick thread, not fine). The guy I bought it from had changed it from an auto to a three speed and did it badly, but...

Yeah, I wondered about torque wrench access - it's pretty tight in there. I'd planned to use an extension (except possibly for #3) - I figured the "7 - 15ft-lb" was based on the expected wobble... Fair enough - the answer to my "am I overthinking this?" is - yes.

Everyone seems to agree now that replacement spark plugs should get some anti-seize compound on the threads, but IIRC that wasn't always so. Didn't Ford recommend against this since it could lead to over-torqing the new plugs? So, if I put the AS on, do I reduce the torque a little from the...

The writeup is nice - thanks. Unfortunately, I'm unable to see pics hosted at ImageShack. Whatever it is they do differently from other image hosting sites causes my computer troubles...

Pics of ventshades and link?

Thanks for posting the fix. I learn a lot from them.

I'm keeping mine, partly as an economic issue - it's paid for and reliable - and partly as a testbed. If it does break, I have a car that isn't worth much to practice my basic wrench-turning skills. If I muck it up, I haven't lost much. Mine's worth maybe $3000 - I can buy a lot of gas and...

Thanks, I wouldn't want to drill either. If they aren't there now, I'll only consider them on a replacement basis.

Anybody? Are there plugs that can be removed and replaced with zircs?