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The ones on our 2010 don't look any better. They have tiny cracks all through them. Scuff and paint isn't hard and is on my summer list of things to do.

Rear wheel bearings. The sounds travel in very unbelievable ways in these. Although I have had feathered tires produce the exact same symptoms. Rotate them first to see if it gets better.

Forscan has saved several peoples bacon here and has become my go to for Ford troubleshooting. Glad you got it going.

Removing it is an absolute pain in the rear on an AWD or 4x4. Do not cheap out on one as this won't be a job you are in a hurry to repeat. On a 2wd they are easy.

That sounds bad. A lot of pressure is bad. 16psi is normal. Might be time to sniff the coolant tank for combution using a chemical tester. Next I would pressure check the cooling system using a gauge. See if it bleeds off.

External temps don't really matter when you are low on coolant. There is no way for the engine to exchange the heat with that cold air if the coolant isn't flowing. These engines do not tolerate overheating very well let alone driving while that way. Check thermostat (I would go motorcraft here...

How long/how far have you driven while it was running hotter than normal?

My 2002 has this balancer. It isn't a year difference but most 4x4 or AWD have this balancer. Some 2wd have it as well as the 2002 engine from a 2wd Explorer I installed has it. It will make no difference if it's there or not. Some people have even cut the chain from their balancer when its...

Another vote for check valve under the hood. I am on my fourth one. They are junk quality. It hisses loud on the passengers footwell when they go bad HVAC on or off. There is a vac canister there that empties and fills as you step on or let off the gas.

If you get an 04 engine, it is a drop in affair for an 05. Both have drive by wire and share sensors, intake and all. I have a 2002 engine in my 04 and it also was not hard. Just had to swap valve covers and intake/throttle body/injectors/accessory drive brackets and a few other obvious things...

Rubber gets soft with temperature. If it were metal I would freeze it.

Put that oring in boiling hot water for a minute. I would leave it on the sensor and just hold the connector out of the water. The heat will make it squeeze in better.

It doesn't hurt these Ford throttle bodies to open them manually. They are quite easy to move and the gears are pretty tough. I have cleaned a lot of them by removing them then holding them open and wiping them out. No harm done to any of them. Infinity's are garbage so I would expect them to...

This sounds sort of redneck but take the old sensor without disturbing its crushed factory oring. Wrap it about 4 or 5 times with a good Teflon tape around the oring. Put it back in and enjoy many leak free miles. I have done this to two vehicles in my fleet expecting it to fail but years later...

What brand of thermostat? There are some real crappy ones out there that open too late/too soon. Even the Stants which used to be good are hit and miss. Monitor temps during a warm up cycle with obd2 and see what's happening. The 4.0 doesn't take kindly to overheating (blown head gaskets and...

You just need an abs capable reader. My money is on your hubs. I have been bitten by the cheap Chinese hubs having bad or incorrect wheel speeds reported and that will trip the ABS but will set a code for an ABS capable reader. Even the expensive parts store brands are mostly chinese these days...

I do not like spacers or wheel adapters as I feel they are a compromise in safety. The ones that are better are hub centric and cost quite a bit for a good set. I do not know why you want a 14 inch tire on either. Selection for those is quite limited. Are you going to use terms like "tuck...

These are crazy simple to do a water pump on. Don't have to touch the intake. Nothing with vacuum really has to be removed to do it. I think your problem may be unrelated to that. Did it overheat or go into the red causing you to change the pump?

Perhaps a higher quality 12 ton would suffice, but when it comes to HF stuff overbuying isnt a bad idea. I would use the cheapo bearings you press in as long as you are very conscious of them and get them out at the first sign of noise or play. Only costs your labor at that point.

I went to HF for the 12 ton but thankfully they were out of them because it takes all of the 20 ton press plus a few good whacks with a mini sledge while under pressure to pop these bearings loose. After that first pop, they press right out. I did get a discount on the 20 ton because they were...

Heck I did it myself when I thought I had the race supported good enough. Only to find it popped off when I flipped it over. I now make sure I have two bearings on hand to fix one knuckle as they can go wrong even when doing everything right. I did used to use machine shops and the dealership...

It doesn't take much to press the hub into the inner race and cause it to not sit right. It's the reason I bought a press to do rear bearings myself. I am sure you know but, It is crucial that you support the inner race fully when pressing. There is also a certain depth the hub gets pressed to...

Fwiw, I have never seen numbers that high on mine. I believe you still have an issue. Is your fan clutch working? New water pump? Flushed out the radiator?

It's worth more in parts if you have a place to strip it and a way to haul it to the scrapper afterwards. . You can sell a running 4.0 SOHC for the same price as a whole broken 3rd gen that needs a trans.

In 04 Ford switched to a different alternator that has the pcm wire on it. That code is for generwtor control circuit and related to that pcm function. I am told you need internals specific to the 04-08 alternators if that helps any. Also, it is not uncommon for a new bearing to spin "stiffer"...