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I bought an '05 EB V8 with the class II hitch and 3.55 rear (see first page for my install). Upgraded the hitch to a class III from a junkyard. Been towing 5000 pounds no problem. I don't know if I'd go to 7k, but definitely more than 3500. I put her in 4 low to pull up the ramp but she cruises...

This happened to me once as well. I had the cruise control set to 45 and started going downhill. The system used engine braking to try and maintain 45. I watched as the lights started to dim because the RPMs were less than 500, then it just died. I took it to the Ford dealer and they upgraded...

I also hate the rattling of the hitch bar while towing. I ended up buying a QuietHitch, like this one: http://www.specialtysuspension.com/The-Quiet-Hitch-anti-rattle-ball-mount--Ball-Mount-4-Class-4-_p_428.html It works as advertised.

My bike mount came with a bolt that goes through the receiver hole and literally clamps the bike mount to the inside of the receiver. Solid and no rattle.

The Rug Doctors you can rent just about anywhere have an upholstery handheld tool that attaches to the machine. That's what I use to clean automotive carpets. It'll be a lot easier with the carpet out.

Avoid one with a moonroof if you are at all concerned with headroom. I'm 6'2" and leg room is plentiful but I can't wear a hat without rubbing on the roof liner (mine has the moonroof).

I'm going to bump this to the top because mine does this too and I've never really thought anything of it. Is it normal? Anything to be worried about?

It's hard to tell from the photo how long that harness is but the connectors look right. If you look in my picture above, inside the trunk wrapped around the new class III hitch is the harness that came with it. It has the 7-way round on one side and the harness connector going to the spot...

I guess both. The wires dangling in the picture are the wires from the factory flat 4 connector in the class II hitch. They would be connected to the harness behind the bumper behind the taillight as you described. I installed a junkyard class III that had the factory 7-way round that hooked...

The connector you are looking for is behind the bumper under the passenger side taillight. The brake controller connector is behind the glovebox. Look at the lower right of this picture for the tow package harness. Mine is an '05 but I'm pretty sure all 02-05 have this connector regardless of...

I have RSC as well and I added the extra pint. It's actually not that hard. Step one, get a mirror, this kind: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-1-8-x-3-1-2-in-mirror/p-00904098000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 or equivalent. Remove the spare tire. Jacking up the rear is not...

that exact plug blew out for me at 92k. I was able to rethread it in to continue on my way which was fortunate because I was 1200 miles from home. Got home, replaced all 8 spark plugs. 7k miles later the same plug blew out and took the remaining threads on the head with it. My local shop has...

Also, the manual states to replace basically all the nuts, including the axle nut, castle nuts, etc. How necessary is that and is there a place other than Ford where I can buy them? I replaced the axle nuts when I did the bearings at 60k and I remember them being $12 a piece from Ford.

This has probably been asked before but due to the sheer numbers of post on ball joints and control arms I couldn't find a singular answer. I went in for inspection and they wanted to fail my ball joints. Fortunately they just sent me on my way instead of giving me the dreaded red R sticker...

here's a good response to the question. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Does_warm_or_cool_air_defrost_car_windows_faster_and_why

I can't help you with the parking break wire. But for the reverse wire, remove the driver's side kick panel and door sill trim piece. Under that you'll see two bundles of wires. In one of the bundles you'll find a black wire with a pink stripe. That is the wire going to the reverse light. There...

I have the ScanGauge II that does exactly what you are describing. It plugs in to the OBD port and continuously reads whatever PIDs I program. I have TFT (transmission fluid temp) as one of the gauge parameters. During normal driving I see what you see, about 160-170. While towing my boat...

Oh. Well I'm out of ideas. I have a v8 so I can't go look. Hopefully someone else will chime in. Still, pictures would help.

The only things I can think of that are near the throttle body and sound like what you describe are the throttle position sensor or the mass air flow sensor. Pictures would help clarify. Does it look like this? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2397620 EDIT: I forgot these were...

Where are you located and what is your interior color? I know people who may want to trade the 40/20/40 bench seat from their explorers for the aviator seat with console (myself included).

If you have an aftermarket stereo using the factory sub/amp, the turn on pop is caused by the 12V output on the aftermarket stereo turn-on lead being fed to the amp which is expecting 5V. You can wire in a 5V voltage regulator to solve that problem...

My '05 EB came with them. I understand it was a factory option that few people opted for. Fortunately for me the previous owner did opt for them, although truth be told I've never used them. And they are a pain during waxing and snow removal.

So what do you do for this? Pull the plug in the pan, let it drain. Replace plug, remove center plug, insert 1/8" pipe thread, then pump new fluid until it drips back down? Engine running during this process?

that looks awesome. where'd you mount the GPS antenna and run the wire?

When you removed the old bearing, can you turn it easily by hand? Does it feel smooth or gritty? You'll be able to feel the difference between a bad bearing and a good one.