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is it paint or clearcoat.... theres other members here with the same issue

you wont actually "lose" power it just moves it around the torque band

at a resonable speed swerve left and right does the noise go away and come back as you straighten out...... humming sounds like a wheel bearing

thats probly what was available at the time and it worked so no ones took the time and $ to try the newer kits

not to be an ass but you guys building these control arms are they legal ? as in DOT ? i know some insurance companys if you have a lifted veical and get into an accedent may want detail of lift tires exc. If there home made stuff it may not go over to well.... spacers are spacers but a control...

it may be that way here but you can suck water up the exhaust if the tailpipe is underwater and it stalls same as trying to start a vehical with the tailpipe under water.... have done both 1 with a beater 4x4 and the other with a quad

i wouldnt try it unless you dont like seeing your 4x4 parts fly out from under your truck, a good way to distroy alot of parts if its awd it will register the different speed and try and kick in the awd mode and your 4x4 system is fighting itself which normaly equals broken parts

the junkyard one will probly have the same problems again the ones ford offers as replacements are updated and from the newer explorers

its in a bad spot to get at its under the dash about where youd rest your left foot, just straight up its dark and made for small hands to get in there to get fuses out

sounds like a warped rotor problem shouldnt go away if you pull a fuse though

yes there is a hub my mistake.... its not bad $$ to have them pressed out and in less then the whole assembly cost

it doesnt just need to enter the airbox to hydrolock if it was stalled it can suck water up the exhaust

your rears are just the bearings no hubs.... just the fronts are hubs rears need to be pressed in/out

Timken supplies Ford... ? Timken was stamped on mine aswell as the Ford logo and a Made in USA (no made in china crap) made sure it was a quality part before i had them install it.

you can fit 33's with 6" lift not putting the RB spacers down at all but it severly limits the susp travel there basicaly isnt any on the downside of the susp travel so there always seems to be a wheel in the air and if you dont have limitedslip you could get stuck pretty easy With a...

had mine done at a ford dealer for just under $300 with tax, incl the part.... this is in canada though

its from a mustang so its a ford product there are other less then nice products just do a search on ebay for hood scoops eitherway its going to be a custom job to make them fit our hoods

thought i posted here.... oh well live in brantford currently and getting out... moveing back to waterford where i grew up was out in the oilsands for the last 2.5 yrs roughly glad i gout out before it crashed there :D

try going to A1 auto wreckers in brantford i was there a few weeks ago and they had a few exlplorers there im not sure on rear hatches... you can call but its best if you go and look yourself and the condition it might be in theres also Bellcity autowreckers right beside them but there not a...

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if its 4wd dont forget the front diff.... it gets the same amount of klm's as the rear :D

your hitch or support plate should hold you (whats under the bumper skin)...if you have done a bodylift and did not move the hitch/support plate up then it will not hold you it will buckle theres no structural support in the plastic cover

jeep also knowen as heeps.... heeps of crap :D good luck.... you do realize barbie drives a jeep right ? lol

mines awd with selectable 4x4 hi and low on stock tire size stock gears 2002 4.6 put down 188rwhp with pulling the fuses dynoteck/dynoflow (one of them) muffler and tip only thing done