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OK. If I do have that in the garage, it is probably been there so long it is a prehistoric rock by now. I had to use some liquid steel the other day and the tubes were solid. I took the hair dryer to them and they managed to become soft enough to forcefully get a bit out and it managed to still...

No, always private owner and original radio. It's what Turdle said. (Thanks) I have that message because resevoir has a leak in it, I think. I will have to take it out and have a look, but I'm nonadventurous now because it is winter, it is cold even though I need the washers to get road spray...

Every time after startup there are no beeps no matter how long I let it idle until I place the shifter into forward or reverse and move out. At that reference point, 10 seconds later there is one beep and that's it. No dash indicators. What is the beep for?

Wow. More work than I want to do, but it would have been fun if I had been able to have helped you with it. I almost did the same thing with my 93 Saturn of drilling out spotwelds of mine and a donor back half, but upon sliding the 2 pieces together, my measurements showed the front half of my...

I see that your vehicle doesn't have any underseal sprayed along the side panels below the floorpan like my 93 and 94. Mine also had flat plugs filling the bolt holes for mounting the boards and it took some scraping to find them and get them out. Looks like you don't have a rust problem there...

I'm calling the factory installed ones running boards. I don't know what Ford officially calls them. Here is a picture of the regular model where the ends of the boards tuck in at the wheel openings. The picture of the Eddie Bauer shows additional overlaid fatter moldings around the wheel...

Yup, makes sense that it was metal fatigue from being improperly tempered. When I got my '94, I went to replace the bushings and one had broken through and obturated the hole like you said normally happens. My first time use Lincoln welder didn't work so well and my weld patch didn't go so well...

I have a set of '95 running boards on my '94 and now I would like to repaint them and put on a 2001. Are there any surprises that would prevent the swap? I'm going to also grind down the bolts that go down through bottom because they can really rip you up if you need to squeeze under there. I'm...

Yes, I was ticked when it happened and I was thinking what an idiot! But after getting over it, I too realized it could have been far worse. The guy really should have hit square in the drivers door and my wife would have been seriously injured on top of other injuries she has never recovered...

Wow! Those are amazing stories. To witness a miracle of a person suddenly not being in the line of impact is well, I lack words to express. The same with the other accident of Josh P. Amazing isn't it! I hope guardian angels get overtime pay.

I got a "New" '93 Ex Eddie Bauer. Maroon with clear coat peeling (why do they all do that except white).Had a sunroof that is nice to have to circulate air and a good interior. The A4LD was solid and better acceleration than any other I have driven. However, it did have some problems of course...

I just got a "new" 93 Ex Eddie Bauer (sun roof is cool). Had some problems to fix. One was it would occasionally shake ferociously when braking. Thought it was loose bearings, then the ball joints, then the tie rods, then cross beam bushings. All were OK. The radius arm bushings were the only...

Ah! how obvious! One can get focused on little things that the obvious doesn't pop up. So what I asked earlier: "The LO light on the dash has a ghostly glow when I'm in HI and when I'm in LO, soon both lights go out." IOs there a fix for that or is there a thread somewhere that solves my query.

Thanks for the info. I'm relieved to know there is actually a neutral position. It seems like when I sometimes go into LO it won't, so I have to back up and try again. The LO light on the dash has a ghostly glow when I'm in HI and when I'm in LO, soon both lights go out. I just started reading...

Ah, the guy with the picture of the hot truck...uh...I did notice the truck.:) So, there is a neutral spot in the tcase that could prevent power from going anywhere. Do you think maybe the range stop bumpers are wearing out and it is on the verge of hit and miss for getting the right position...

In my '93, I was shifting from 4x4 into Low 4x4, stopped and in neutral. When I shifted out of neutral into drive, there was nothing. No go. Revved up the engine and still no go. Tried all the automatic's gears, went back to neutral to try to disengage and the light didn't go off. I pushed it...

I've somehow managed to end up with 2 strong spark signals being sent from the ICM (tested at the ICM) and one really weak signal for Coil #1. I use an LED tester and the light for the weak signal barely shows. As a result, Coil #1 sends out a really tiny spark, not enough to fire it's 2 plugs...

I don't get a spark signal to the coil pack. Did an ohm check at pin 5 and 6 for the crank position sensor circuit and It is good. KOEO power on #8 and ground on #9. Used an LED test light clipped onto +ive battery terminal and got pin 10 to Ignition Coil #1 and pin 11 to Coil #2 were showing...

Had been having trouble with my brand new heads sending coolant into the cylinders and when I removed and replaced the second time, I got exhaust blowing pressure into the cooling system. When I pulled them the second time, I sent them to a NAPA machine shop. They were warped and that is...

That's good. Any other opinions out there? Let's start a census.

I'll tell you later. Rather tied up right now

I have taken the heads off with the exhaust manifold attached. I tried taking off the exhaust manifolds first, but it is really tough and one bolt I stripped the head so I had to leave it on and cut off bolt later. Now to reinstall heads, I would sure like to have them already attached first...

I put this comment in thread on Goofy Temperature. It applies here too. " I would suspect that due to the famous Explorer air bubble. The coolant doesn't always conveniently fill up all the nooks and crannys of the system. There can be a big bubble in the heater core which can sometimes cause a...

As I asked earlier - " And compression air going into the coolant wouldn't that also mean the pressure would go the other way and the cylinders would suck in coolant giving me white smoke and coolant smell out the tailpipe?" Is there anyone that can explain how that works? I'm baffled. Thanks...

I was writing a reply to another thread " Goofy engine Temp issues" about the famous Explorer trapped air in the coolant problem causing soaring temp readings or thumping in the heater core and I got ta thinkin' (dangerous!) When I pulled off the heads, I had syphoned all the coolant out of the...