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I was wondering which trucks, models, etc. are compatible with mine on leaf springs. Mine are weak and sagging. I've got bad body roll and bouncing - I put new shocks on not long ago. I can't stand the way my EX drives - it's all over the road. Planning a trip to the junk yard very soon.

I've been hearing this same type of noise for a long time now. I've heard of problems inherent to the AWD transfer case(4406 or something like that). Mine has 145,000 on it. I just run her, when she breaks, I fix her.

Has anybody ever used products with neatsfoot oil on their leather seats? I saw some Lexol-nf which has the oil in it. It's supposed to be a powerful softener for the leather. I use the 2-part Lexol stuff all the time but my leather still seams kinda hard. It does do a good job of cleaning...

What am I getting into rebuilding the front diff? I keep hearing growling noises especially when I let off the gas. I'm thinking bearings. I bought a new hub but when I took the old one off, it seemed fine - nice and tight and no dragging so I put it back on. I think I've got a bad bearing in...

In the door...

If you're still having trouble with the flange bolts, try using a little propane torch to heat them up. Get em good and hot and they should break loose fairly easily. The ball joints aren't too bad - there's a great thread on here for replacing them. As for the rear end, they're not too bad...

I have the same situation with mine. I would describe it as a "gears" sound - not grinding, but like a set of gears in motion, just louder than usual. Also a slight vibration prolly caused by misalignment.

It's possible that when you installed the shaft, it was misaligned with either the front diff, transfer case flange, or both (compared to original).

I'll check the jack. Things that came to mind after I started the post were lower A-arm bushings, cab-mount bushings but I tend to think these are unlikely. Sway bar mount bushings maybe -- the end links are new. I did notice a little clicking the other day when making a sharp turn to the right...

You can get a decent code reader pretty cheap. They've certainly pointed me in the right direction more than once.

Tranny's around that year were notorious for having problems.

I don't know what keeps clunking on my 01' AWD. It's a heavy "clunk" and sounds like it's on the left side toward the front. Seems to only happen when I'm driving on a rough patch of road or when the vehicle is in a position of torsion. I've replaced all the tie rod ends, all of the ball joints...

"Almost have one of my not-mentioned wishes done, coat my plastics and bumpers with Herculiner....." I wonder if I one could use the bedliner paint on interior metal surfaces instead of Dynamat. Would be a heck of a lot cheaper.

I thought it would interesting to see what kinds of mods/equipment people out there are drooling over (like me). As long as I'm dreaming.....I'll go first. In no particular order: 1. Cold Air intake. 2. Projector headlights. 3. HID conversion kit (9007 and H1's for all 4 lights) 4...

You guys are making things too complicated --- Pulling valve covers??? Start with the most obvious stuff first (and check them thoroughly). It's probably something simple. Don't mean to be critical but I've been there and after removing all kinds of stuff, it was always the simplest thing...

Ok then. That'll be my next purchase (after a new wheel hub). Sounds like they're around $700. Thanks again.

Well, from experience, when it's running and just quits (then cranks but no start) it's usually one of a few possibilities: Fuel pump, pressure regulator, ECU, or ignition module. It is possible for another sensor to fail (i.e. CPS, TPS, etc.) but less likely.

There's prolly a thread about this but I'll ask again. Can I put a set of TM headers on a completely stock vehicle. I have the 5.0 with EGR tube attached to it. I thought I read somewhere not to put them on a stock engine - something about the exit being a smaller diameter than stock. I...

Get a code scanner and check for trouble codes. If you don't get any codes, chances are its the computer (ECM/ECU).

Your ECM might have went out OR the fuel pump.

You'll have to take the radio out. It's behind there.

I agree. Wheel hubs and exhaust manifolds are really the main problems with the 5.0's. If you aren't familiar with them already, you need a special tool to get the fuel filter off. Also, several functions (besides engine & trans) are controlled by an electronic module (called GEM Module) so if...

I would use a scanner to see what trouble codes are stored in the computer. Sounds like its electrical.

It all depends how much you want to spend as there is a huge range of options.

I would think it shouldn't cost too much to fix that. Actually getting to the blendor assy. might be a pain but if that's the worst thing wrong with it, I'd say go for it.