03 lincoln aviator

[4pointslow]

1. Position the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the copper (marked) link with the timing mark on the sprocket.

1. NOTE: Applies to all engines.
   
   Make sure that the copper (marked) chain links are lined up with the dots on the crankshaft sprockets and the camshaft sprocket.

 

[jd4242]

Below are what mine looked like. I marked a link in the left (driver side) camshaft chain, let the chain hang while holding the marked link horizontal, and then marked the corresponding horizontal link at the bottom which would be half way. Then I installed the chain on the crankshaft aft sprocket while aligning the chain mark with the sprocket timing mark.

Then I aligned the other marked chain link with the left (driver side) cam sprocket timing mark.

I did a similar procedure with the right (passenger side) chain, the crankshaft front sprocket and the right camshaft sprocket.

I used a length of insulated wire to keep the tensioner guide and chain in position.

Yea see mine look pretty mich like yours does..did the timing tab on the driverside line perfectly up with the sensor when at tdc?? Mines off a little ..do you remember how many links it was dot to dot for bog chains??

 

[4pointslow]

1. If the copper links are not visible, mark one link on one end and one link on the other end, and use as timing marks.

 

[jd4242]

1. If the copper links are not visible, mark one link on one end and one link on the other end, and use as timing marks.

Yea i jist want to count before i take them off..its 7 links for the cams but i cant find hom many for big chains

 

[jd4242]

7 links dot to dot for cams
30 links dot to dot from crank to cam gears

Now to count

 

[jd4242]

Its timed right..im lost

 

[jd4242]

I have no clue now..ive checked EVERYTHING. .i just dont get what would cause it to flood out so bad..seriously doubt its every injector is stuck..and i had good fuel pressure wile cranking also..

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pass were all 1-3lbs within each other 178-182ish range..drivers were all 1-3lbs within each other 165-168ish..

If the camshaft timing is correct, why the noticeable compression difference between bank 1 and bank 2? Is the porting significantly different between the banks?

 

[jd4242]

If the camshaft timing is correct, why the noticeable compression difference between bank 1 and bank 2? Is the porting significantly different between the banks?

Idk could have been milled more..also dohc have a noticeable difference from bank to bank but mines kinda alot..its also hard to tell if those were accurate measurements. .it was a dry test,cold and the rings havent been seated yet..but plenty of compression to go boom

Im 100% its timmed right..ive counted probably 20 times

 

[jd4242]

Its either losing spark or its injecting to much fuel. .and honestly i dont know how to test either of those other than knowing fuel pressure is good wile cranking and its definitely getting spark at first till it floods out..does it flood because spark stops or does it flood because its just injecting to much fuel idk

 

[4pointslow]

If there is no spark jumping the secondary ignition, the PCM knows by monitoring the primary wire to the coil for a voltage spike (flyback voltage).
If the flyback signal is lost the PCM will shut down the injector.

Were all the coils and injectors plugged into the correct harness conectors? I have plugged injectors into the wrong spots before and that causes running problems.
Also you can pull codes with the X3, after everything is back together disconnect the battery to clear any codes that may have been set from things being disconnected then try again and if it still acts up pull codes with the X3 to see if that might help.

 

[jd4242]

If there is no spark jumping the secondary ignition, the PCM knows by monitoring the primary wire to the coil for a voltage spike (flyback voltage).
If the flyback signal is lost the PCM will shut down the injector.

Were all the coils and injectors plugged into the correct harness conectors? I have plugged injectors into the wrong spots before and that causes running problems.
Also you can pull codes with the X3, after everything is back together disconnect the battery to clear any codes that may have been set from things being disconnected then try again and if it still acts up pull codes with the X3 to see if that might help.

O so your saying if i was losing spark it would shut the injectors off basically? ? Its definitely not shuting them off,as the plugs are DRENCHED..im about to pull all the injectors and leave them plugged in..then turn it over couple times and see if all of them are injecting or if any are sticking

No codes,well other than p100..also way the harnesses is it would be VERY hard to plug something in at wrong spot..everything pretty much only reaches what its spose to

 

[4pointslow]

A bad or disconnected Coolant temp sensor might cause fuel dumping, when unplugged the PCM thinks it is -40 degrees F

 

[4pointslow]

Be careful, don't set your truck on fire.

 

[jd4242]

Be careful, don't set your truck on fire.

Im about to ...this things on its last lwg..

Doesn't appear any injectors are sticking..

 

[jd4242]

Well im completely outa ideas and have been working on it for 2 days basically now..idk what else to check..something stupid has to be the cause,i just dont know what

 

[Joe in NY]

Well you could start with disconnecting things. The ECU can run the engine with out a few key sensors at a time. It run without the MAF (turns out to be #1 on priority list for air, fuel, and spark control), then try the MAP, then you could try the the O2 sensors, etc etc... I dont mean all at once but one at a time. Or disconnect everything and slowly plug in various sensors... Just a thought. Hard to diagnose leaving everything connected

 

[jd4242]

Well you could start with disconnecting things. The ECU can run the engine with out a few key sensors at a time. It run without the MAF (turns out to be #1 on priority list for air, fuel, and spark control), then try the MAP, then you could try the the O2 sensors, etc etc... I dont mean all at once but one at a time. Or disconnect everything and slowly plug in various sensors... Just a thought. Hard to diagnose leaving everything connected

The main problem is once you try to start it the first time and it fires over for a split second and floods right out..you have to pull the plugs basically right after that and they come out dripping wet..no point in trying to start it after the first try or it just definitely doesnt want to start because its flooded

To test every sensor id have to pull plugs every time,dry them off and let the motor air out..then unplug another sensor and try again

 

[jd4242]

So did some self test with a friends Autel computer and it came back with p0193..i then found the rubber gasket was messed up and the frp connection wasnt plugged in..fixed that no more codes..all sensors checked out fine..

Still wont start,just floods immediately out..also tried unplugging the maf..still no start..

Im lost and seriously dont know what to check or even how..

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Can you disable the fuel injectors and see if it will start on "starting fluid" at least for a moment (crank while spraying past the throttle blade)? This would at least help narrow it (the problem) down to ignition, or fuel. ALso, does the factory F.I. algorithms not have WOT clear flood mode (during cranking)?