06-07 V8 Spark Plug Issue - Change Them Early? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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06-07 V8 Spark Plug Issue - Change Them Early?

So I went out to tackle this one today (only 66k on the truck)with the TSB and lisle 65600 in hand. Followed the procedure to a T and still broke 4 of 8. 3 of the 4 came out fine with the lisle tool but on the fourth I can't get the extractor to bite into the sleeve. I tried using some downward pressure while turning but still no luck. I originally thought I would be taking it to the dealer to remove the head but I think I'm going to order the calvan 39100 as a last ditch effort to get it out myself. It looks like this tool (as well as the rotunda) comes with a tap to cut new threads into the plug sleeve and then a matching puller bolt. I'm crossing my fingers that this does the trick. Does anyone have any idea what the dealer book calls for hours of labor for removing a head ?

I've read in a few places that the puller screw threads get worn down after a few uses...Does yours look worn down? They do sell replacement puller screws here... http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt...65620_puller_screw_replacement_for_65600.html ...for around $36...That may be a less expensive option than having somebody pull the head.

Also, I have around 65k on my 06...so I have to assume I will run into some of the same issues when replacing my plugs soon...I was wondering if all 4 that broke, broke in the same way?? The TSB lists 3 possible break scenarios...kinda was wondering if one was more likely than the other two.
 



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I've read in a few places that the puller screw threads get worn down after a few uses...Does yours look worn down? They do sell replacement puller screws here... http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt...65620_puller_screw_replacement_for_65600.html ...for around $36...That may be a less expensive option than having somebody pull the head.

Also, I have around 65k on my 06...so I have to assume I will run into some of the same issues when replacing my plugs soon...I was wondering if all 4 that broke, broke in the same way?? The TSB lists 3 possible break scenarios...kinda was wondering if one was more likely than the other two.

It does look a little worn down and I couldn't find one locally here so I just ordered the calvan kit since I have to wait for shipping anyways. If I use the tool on a sleeve that did come out it bites so I'm not convinced it's worn down that much. All 4 did break in almost the exact same way - The porcelain snapped and 3 out of the 4 broke the electrode off clean. The one that didn't pulled out with the top of the plug.
 






So I went out to tackle this one today (only 66k on the truck)with the TSB and lisle 65600 in hand. Followed the procedure to a T and still broke 4 of 8. 3 of the 4 came out fine with the lisle tool but on the fourth I can't get the extractor to bite into the sleeve. I tried using some downward pressure while turning but still no luck. I originally thought I would be taking it to the dealer to remove the head but I think I'm going to order the calvan 39100 as a last ditch effort to get it out myself. It looks like this tool (as well as the rotunda) comes with a tap to cut new threads into the plug sleeve and then a matching puller bolt. I'm crossing my fingers that this does the trick. Does anyone have any idea what the dealer book calls for hours of labor for removing a head ?

A little update after thinking about this problem instead of sleeping most of the night :) I went out this morning with a digital camera and a flashlight to get a better look at the sleeve I was dealing with. After capturing a clear image and zooming in I could tell that the porcelain hadn't been pushed far enough down even after using the pusher tool several times. I ended up using a 3/8 masonry drill bit at slow speed and a 3/8 piece of hard tubing fixed into a shop vac to suck the dust as the bit worked at the porcelain. After a short time I had cleared enough to get the lisle extractor to bite in and got it out ! Just got back from a test drive and the truck runs great. Needless to say I'm pretty relieved !
 






Congrats man...that's what it takes for me sometimes too...a sleepless night full of thinking. :salute:
 






It seems this is an issue pertaining to the 06/07 models. Was this issue adsressed by Ford in later models? I have an 08 Monty and I pulled the plugs at 35k. They squeaked a little bit, so I put some anti-seize on the threads. I plan on replacing the plugs at 50K, but was wondering about replacing them with OEM plugs or another brand. Any thoughts on this?
 






It seems this is an issue pertaining to the 06/07 models. Was this issue adsressed by Ford in later models? I have an 08 Monty and I pulled the plugs at 35k. They squeaked a little bit, so I put some anti-seize on the threads. I plan on replacing the plugs at 50K, but was wondering about replacing them with OEM plugs or another brand. Any thoughts on this?

The problem only pertains to the 2006-2008 with the 4.6L and only with engines having a build date before 11/30/07. The date should be on the left hand cam cover sticker. If your engine was built before this date you may have the same problem although it sounds like you got them out without a problem before. The important part about re-assembly is putting the silver anti-seize on the bottom sleeve itself - this is the part the sticks and breaks. Just be sure not to get any on the ground strap at the bottom. I used motorcraft since the only other choices were champion and autolite (which is made by honeywell just like motorcraft)
 






Does the 4.0l V6 have this problem?

Thanks,

Flash
 












Trust me do them at 60k, if you wait till 100k you are guaranteed to break a couple. Explorers and mountaineers are less prone to breakage then the F150/Navigator/Expedition vehicles.

What should I expect the dealer to charge for spark plug replacement at 54K miles on my 2007? Thanks for your advice.
 






I checked with 2 or 3 dealers: the base quote was $ 395 if everything goes well - I'd take it right there. But for each broken spark plug they wanted $ 100-150 on top of it. So the worst case "could" be $ 1600, very unlikely, but mathematicaly possible. And how do you prove that only 2 broke, not 6.
 






I checked with 2 or 3 dealers: the base quote was $ 395 if everything goes well - I'd take it right there. But for each broken spark plug they wanted $ 100-150 on top of it. So the worst case "could" be $ 1600, very unlikely, but mathematicaly possible. And how do you prove that only 2 broke, not 6.

Thanks for letting me know dealer pricing estimate. I'm not worried about dealer pretending to break plugs (at least at my specific dealership since I've known service manager for 15 years).
 






This thread compelled me to join the forum

I just bought a 2006 Explorer XLT V8 4x4. In my research, I learned about this issue. The car has 44K miles on it, so I am going to change the plugs as a precaution. Thanks for all the great information. It seems like the Champion plug has an improved design. Why does there seem to be reluctance of others to use the Champion?
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1432149
 






I put them in mine 18 K ago and no issues so far.
 






I just bought a 2006 Explorer XLT V8 4x4. In my research, I learned about this issue. The car has 44K miles on it, so I am going to change the plugs as a precaution. Thanks for all the great information. It seems like the Champion plug has an improved design. Why does there seem to be reluctance of others to use the Champion?
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1432149

Seems to be more of a brand loyalty thing. Autolite are for Ford, Champion for Mopar, Acdelco for GM.

I have the Champion plugs, but installed Motorcraft only because I have an Extended Warranty. But next year, out goes the 2 pc Motorcraft, in goes the 1 pc Champion.
 






I've got 43k miles on my '08 LTD. Planning to do this soon to hopefully avoid broken plugs. What's a good replacement plug?
 






I just bought a 2006 Explorer XLT V8 4x4. In my research, I learned about this issue. The car has 44K miles on it, so I am going to change the plugs as a precaution. Thanks for all the great information. It seems like the Champion plug has an improved design. Why does there seem to be reluctance of others to use the Champion?
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1432149

Honestly as long as you put the silver anti-seize on the new plugs' electrode shield they shouldn't stick again. I read a couple of stories about the triton engines not liking the champion plugs and with the price of them it was enough to stop me from trying.
 






Changed my plugs yesterday at 42k Miles. 3 out of 8 plugs broke. The Lisle tool worked flawlessly! Needed quite an assortment tools to complete the job! Lots of sizes of deep well sockets, air compressor, torque wrench, various socket extensions, long needle nose pliers, etc.

No real pattern to the plugs that broke... Front two on the left side, and back one on the right side.

Replaced with the new 1-piece Champion plugs.

Feel free to send me any questions.
sparkplugs.jpg

SparkPlugsBroken.jpg
 






Did you follow the TSB procedures for the removal?
 






Did you follow the TSB procedures for the removal?

Yes, followed the recommended procedure. Funny thing is you can't really tell when the tip breaks off for sure until you get the plug out.

Also ran through a couple of tanks of gas with Regane ahead of time.
 



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Just asking, cause when I did mine in the spring, I used the Motorcraft carb cleaner and let it sit for maybe an hour. When the plugs came out, the carbon was very soft and wet. #7 & 8 seemed to give the most resistance, but they came out. Guess I was just lucky.

Thanks
 






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