06-07 V8 Spark Plug Issue - Change Them Early? | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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06-07 V8 Spark Plug Issue - Change Them Early?

ok so yours was a early 2008 model.. Im hoping then mine being 06/2008 build date that i wont have this problem. ill find out soon. ill be changing them in the next month or so once i get back from a trip.
 



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My Spark plug replacement story

My vehicle had been “bucking” slightly under partial load (slight acceleration from highway speeds). It had been getting progressively worse over the last couple of months. No “check engine” lights but the dealer advised that it was probably plugs or a coil pack going bad. I decided it was time for new plugs.

After reading about all the nightmare stories, I bought the Lisle extractor tool, ordered some plugs from Summit Racing.com, bought a good deep 9/16” socket, spoke to a friend of a friend who is an experienced Ford tech, watched 3 or 4 “how to remove plugs” videos on You Tube, and finally gave it a shot.

FWIW my vehicle is a 2006 Explorer XLT, March 2006 build, 4.6 V8 with 86,800 miles. I bought the vehicle two years and 23000 miles ago from a dealer. I have no idea what the previous service records were. The daggum dealers always throw that good information away.

On the Ford tech’s advice I bought the Autolite HT0 plugs. I liked the look of the Champion one piece plug but the tech’s comment was that several customers complained about drivability with the Champion plug. The Champion plug by the way has a 5/8” hex head so if you choose Champions you’ll need a 5/8” plug socket as well.

As far as the procedure is concerned, the Ford tech advised not to bother with using the PB Blaster / Carb cleaner per the tech procedure bulletin. His experience was that it just makes a mess and does not do much good. He said just take it slow and let it squeak and complain as the plug comes out. I started with a stone cold (76 degrees in FL in May) engine. So as I got started I broke #1 and #2 loose per the video and Ford procedures. Since the guys on the videos were so emphatic about using the PB Blaster I squirted some PB Blaster down the #2 hole and let it sit while I worked on Number 1.

Plug number 1 came out slowly and it squeaked and squalked quite a bit. But it came out in tact. I proceeded to remove 3 and 4 using the “dry” method. They came out fine. I then went back to number 2 which had been sitting with the penetrant for almost an hour by this time. I sucked up the residue PB Blaster with a paper towel to prevent it from flooding in to the combustion chamber and started to work at removal. It did come out a little easier than the others but not significantly. It also looked more like so many of the others that have been pictured in this thread. The plugs that came out via the dry method looked more rusty than carboned up but that may be residue from the fuel system cleaner I have been using. More on that in a minute.

Plugs 5-7 all came out similarly to #1. All dry and in tact. The passenger side was a little more difficult as there are more obstructions on that side of the engine plus it was easier to “pull” on the wrench to loosen the plugs on the driver’s side vs. pushing on the wrench to loosen on the passenger side.

Plug #8 was a real bugger to break loose. I did put a little PB blaster in that hole to loosen the threads. After allowing that to sit a while and thinking about how to get some more leverage on #8, I did finally get it broken loose.
All 8 plugs came out in tact and there was no need to use the Lisle tool. See photo.

explorersparkplugs.jpg

Shot at 2012-05-14

As a precursor, I did run a couple of bottles of Amsoil PI fuel system cleaner through a couple of tanks. I am not sure if that cleaned off the carbon build up, caused the remaining carbon to look rusty, and allowed for easy removal of the plugs or not. I think it may have as the electrodes look pretty good and there was not much carbon for 86,000 miles. It is possible that the previous owner had newer plugs installed not long ago but by the looks of the plugs and the way the vehicle was driving, I don’t think so. Plus, there was no evidence of anti sieze per the tech bulletin. I did use it on the new plugs.

The whole process took two hours and the vehicle seems to run better now. As I mentioned above, I did not need to use the Lisle extractor and feel lucky that I did not. If anyone thinks they might need one, I’ll sell this one for ½ of what I paid. Below is a link as to where to buy the Amsoil PI fuel system cleaner if anyone is interested. I think the stuff works and who knows, maybe just maybe it saved me a big headache by allowing these plugs to come out cleanly.

I hope this is helpful for anyone contemplating attempting the plug change on your own. For me it was not that bad and I feel a sense of relief that it is now complete. I’ll be changing these plugs again with 30000-40000 miles.

Don

Link To Amsoil PI - http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx
 






Nice job. I changed mine on my 06 when I had 101 K miles, and 7 came out fine, # 8 broke in 3 pieces, and the horror began .... :)
 












hey don, I am just wondering if your bucking went away. Thanks for the right up.
 












Just did mine

I just replaced the plugs in my '07 EB with 90,000 miles with original plugs. Thanks to this forum, I also purchased the Lisle tool in addition to 8 new plugs before I even tried to replace the plugs. Darn good thing I did, as 3 of the 8 broke off. I WAS surprised at how much of the center electrode had worn down!
I will admit that the engine DOES run much smoother now. :)
 






I must be lucky because I had no broken plug issues. I have an 06' XLT and did a lot of reading and investigation before attempting to remove the plugs which had 85.5 k original miles. I used a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen each plug slightly then sprayed PB Blaster and waited 10 minutes. I then used a 1/2" ratchet to remove the plugs and then used my indoor outdoor vacuum to clean out each well. Used the identical OEM replacements with no problems.
 






Does anyone have an extraction tool that they bought and no longer need laying around that they would be willing to sell and ship relatively soon? Im planning on tackling my plug change very soon, and wouldnt mind putting some money back in a members pocket at the same time.

Thanks
Tom
 






Tom, I have the tool and I sent you a private message.

Ross
 






OK. Broke the first one I tried. Need help. The top porcelain and the electrode are left, just the threads and "ring" came out. The lisle tool is useless at this point, how do I remove the electrode and the white topside porcelin? Get it broken,pulled,magic tricked out?
 






Go to Denslor Tools website. They have an article (and Video) on the procedures. Think you need to get the electrode out first.

Follow Ford's TSB. Don't deviate from the procedure.
 






I swapped my plugs out at 45,500 miles. I bought the Lisle tool just in case and didn't need it. I ran two bottles of Chevron Techron cleaner through a tankful of gas before pulling the old plugs.

I followed the Ford TSB to the letter and 1/2 the plugs came out easily the other 1/2 screeched and groaned but came out without much fuss. I did notice some carbon buildup on the plugs that was softened up from the carb cleaner.
 






Just had mine changed at 75,000 miles. I had run two and a half tanks with Seafoam (bottle says treats 8-20 gallons, so I used two bottles in each tankful and filled within 5 miles from empty). The mechanic said they came out easily and not one of them broke. Total price, with plugs, was $165.
 






I changed mine at 98k and all of them came out with no issues. So to each their own. They were the original plugs, the truck has been dealer maintained its whole life and I just didnt feel comfortable giving all that money to the dealer for something that takes 30mins to do. So I changed them myself and have had no issues.
 






Sorry to revive an old thread, but there's a LOT of great information here!

Earlier this Fall, my truck had a misfire. I pulled the 8th coil and it was rusted (and wet (?) even though I never washed the engine). At the time, I could only afford to replace one coil & plug. I went with the Autolite HT1. I guess I lucked out when I removed the OEM plug but I can say that was a ridiculous battle. I literally had to use an old lacrosse stick as a breaker bar (never knew about the TSB).

At any rate, my truck is showing the same lack of acceleration symptoms (especially on hills), and is about to click 80k. I just bought a new set of Accel coils and wanted to do the plugs too. I'm tempted to go with the Champion since they have a rebate and are approximately the same price as the Autolite but I have a few questions after reading this and the manufacturer sites:

1) Folks mentioned buying double platinum Autolites. But it looks like the only option for the V8 is a "regular" platinum HT1. Is there another double platinum available from either Motorcraft or Autolite that fits?

2) The Champions are supposedly pregapped too. I've never gapped before so I was wondering if it's necessary to still gap them before installing?

TIA!
 






Sorry to bump, but just seeing if anyone might be able to offer any help. I'm really interested in getting double platinum but not sure if they're for the V6 only.
 






Sorry to bump, but just seeing if anyone might be able to offer any help. I'm really interested in getting double platinum but not sure if they're for the V6 only.

Since no one has answered your question, I'll chime in with my opinion...
I wouldn't sweat getting a double plat plug. In my opinion, the only advantage is longevity so if you're changing plugs every 50K miles like I am (primarily to avoid a breakage) there really isn't an advantage.

That being said, I will never use a Champion spark plug (one too many failures in other engines) so given the choice between a double plat Champion and a single plat Autolite or Motorcraft all at the same price, I'd still go with the latter two.
 






Since no one has answered your question, I'll chime in with my opinion...
I wouldn't sweat getting a double plat plug. In my opinion, the only advantage is longevity so if you're changing plugs every 50K miles like I am (primarily to avoid a breakage) there really isn't an advantage.

That being said, I will never use a Champion spark plug (one too many failures in other engines) so given the choice between a double plat Champion and a single plat Autolite or Motorcraft all at the same price, I'd still go with the latter two.

Thanks BMF! My thinking was the same. Especially if I'm stuck buying that removal tool. Not to say I want to deal with broken sparks, but if I come across one, mind as well be ready. I think I'm going to pick up some HT1 Autolites or whatever they are.

Thanks!
 



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It's curious that no one has mentioned running through a few tanks of fuel with an additive to remove any carbon build-up... any thoughts on this?

I have done just that for about three tanks of gas. I added Sea Foam when tank was 1/2 full.
Changed my plugs today and they cam out quite easily 105526 K bought 07 Mountaineer with 91K ( all but one looked original all had gaps around 60 thousands )
I let all plugs soak ( turn 1/8 loose and turned them back in and than 1/8 out and than sprayed with prc ) for at least 30 min. and than used the 1/8 turn method to loosen 1/8 loose than 1/8 tight than 1/4 loose than back to 1/8 tight I kept repeating this method until I remover several, by than I could tell when I could just turn to loose direction.
But I do believe that the Sea Form was the reason for the easily removal and NOT BRAKING ANY Plugs ends had little carbon. Did I say I did have the Lisle tool on hand.
 






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