Tike
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
- Messages
- 261
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Greater Philadelphia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 08 Ford Sport Trac XLT
replacing the oem - 'non serviceable' drive shaft with fort waynes conversion to a serviceable carrier bearing.
time:3-4 hours by myself with no impact just hand tools
my broken carrier bearing.. the boot was torn and the shaft wasnt being suspended in the middle and rotating off axis and causing driveline vibrations. been putting it off for a couple months to save up. but inspections coming up.
** upon removing i noticed the CV was also super loose in some directions and sitcky in the other. - oh well
broken carrier bearing.
20180118_175106.mp4
PACKAGE - shipping was ~50 fedex ground came in less than 5 days to NJ.
BOX
20180330_113816.jpg
Invoice, stickers, products
20180330_113946.jpg
20180330_114142.jpg
CONTENTS
20180330_114426.jpg
20180330_114623.jpg
*** When removing and installing the bolts from the t-case and rear diff side i recommend getting a friend to apply and release the E-brake. Lock the e-brake so you can remove a few bolts. then release and rotate the shaft. relock and re peat leaving one bolt threaded in a bit so the shaft wont just fall. ( i went out fro and under the truck a good 50+ times.
*** also i was working alone so i used a 1 ft bunjee cord and looped it under the drive shaft in the front and one in the rear and hooked them onto cross members so when i freed the shaft it wouldn't just drop and get damaged or hit me in face.
REMOVAL.
* jacked car up on 4 jack stands and threw down card board so sliding in and out was smooothe.
Carrier Bearing
- removing the carrier bearing bolts. 18MM deep socket.
***these bolts had red threadlocker on them and needed a breaker bar. pretty rusty threads
** bolt closest to gas tank, needed a 12 inch extension also.
20180331_101142.jpg
20180331_124400.jpg
T-case side
Marked the oem shaft incase something happens. might try tinkering with the bearing and replacing it. just for everyones knowledge on here.
Remove the 6 bolts connecting the drive shaft to the T-case side. it was seized on their with rust. so i partially threaded one bolt back (as seen in pic) and went to work on the rear diff side so it would just fall out. n be dangling. ( bolt head size - i think these were 6.5MM )
20180331_103450.jpg
20180331_124357.jpg
replacement bolts - came with drive shaft (use size 6 Hex key)
20180331_124354.jpg
** i threaded all 6 new bolts into the t-case flange to check / clean the threads.
Rear Diff side
12MM - 12 point socket with a breaker bar after 10 minutes of PB plaster... broke my 3/8 drive Blue hawk socket.... so i bought KOBALT Deep and short. you will need the DEEP Socket. because a socket or breaker bar wont clear the u joint unless you use an extension, but then you loose torque and its not as snug/direct. prolly do able.
20180331_124402.jpg
COMPARISON
almost had a heart attack thinking the small shaft was to short. but BoominExplorer saved me and told me its a slip yoke and slides out when you pull on it... THANK YOU!
20180331_131254.jpg
INSTALLING
YOU MUST ALIGN ALL TE YELLOW MARKINGS, NOTE THE ONES ON THE SPLINES where rear and fron shaft connect. this is a MUST for proper balance.
Cariier Bearing.
remove the nuts(19MM) and leaving the bolts, that came with the replacement, in the bearing mount on the shaft.
the shorter shaft goes up first.slide the side that bolts to the t-case side up first and past the t-case toward the drive side then life the carrier bearing up and lift the carrier bearing mount into place. the one side of the mount on the vehicle has a bit of a lip and i had to slide it around that first to get it into place. then loosely thread the nuts on. i think these were lock nuts but i still used lock-tite. you will need to adjust the positioning of the carrier bearing at the end then fully torque it in place, essentially aligning the drive shaft.
20180331_141612.jpg
T-case side
use provided bolts (6 bolts, size 6 Hex) you will be a long socket extension of some and a U joint adapter for others. i lock-tited them and just made them as tight as i could being that i didnt have my torque wrench on me. also couldnt find the torque spec for this side.
**bolt in yellow square has a paint in the A$$. used a Hex key.
20180331_124354.jpg
20180331_142923.jpg
20180331_142923.jpg
Rear diff side
didnt get a picture. but i reused the old bolts as they weren't in bad shape and used a liberal amount of loc-tite. also i threaded them into the flange on the rear diff side before i installed the u joint and lock-tite to it to clean and test the threads.
*torqued to 82 ft-lbs
tighten down carrier bolts and use lock-tite. (blue)
i used a 3/4 wrench onto the bolts ontop as i couldn't fit a ratched. then i wedged that against the body. then i used my ratchet to snug the bolts and then torqued them to 41-ft lbs.
20180331_150703.jpg
double checked all the bolts. i turn the truck on and turned off the True TRac and ABS and looked for anything obvious in the drive shaft for a few minutes as is spun. then let the truck st over night to let the lock-tite harden up.
review:
4/5
for $750 plus $50 for shipping. with a 7.50 coupon code - 'BATMAN' i would have expected 4 new replacement bolts for the rear, a small tube of locktite and little better instructions with torque specs too...
fort wayne if you see this think about make install videos and put them on your youtube channel or website!
This product looks and feels way more durable, beefier and is going to be alot more serviceable in the future.
shipping came in under a week. and the people over there were nice and helpful but they are closed on weekends so any support help on weekends is out of the question.
will stop back in a few weeks and give an update. Hope this helps anyone who was thinking about purchasing this product
time:3-4 hours by myself with no impact just hand tools
my broken carrier bearing.. the boot was torn and the shaft wasnt being suspended in the middle and rotating off axis and causing driveline vibrations. been putting it off for a couple months to save up. but inspections coming up.
** upon removing i noticed the CV was also super loose in some directions and sitcky in the other. - oh well
broken carrier bearing.
20180118_175106.mp4
PACKAGE - shipping was ~50 fedex ground came in less than 5 days to NJ.
BOX
20180330_113816.jpg
Invoice, stickers, products
20180330_113946.jpg
20180330_114142.jpg
CONTENTS
20180330_114426.jpg
20180330_114623.jpg
*** When removing and installing the bolts from the t-case and rear diff side i recommend getting a friend to apply and release the E-brake. Lock the e-brake so you can remove a few bolts. then release and rotate the shaft. relock and re peat leaving one bolt threaded in a bit so the shaft wont just fall. ( i went out fro and under the truck a good 50+ times.
*** also i was working alone so i used a 1 ft bunjee cord and looped it under the drive shaft in the front and one in the rear and hooked them onto cross members so when i freed the shaft it wouldn't just drop and get damaged or hit me in face.
REMOVAL.
* jacked car up on 4 jack stands and threw down card board so sliding in and out was smooothe.
Carrier Bearing
- removing the carrier bearing bolts. 18MM deep socket.
***these bolts had red threadlocker on them and needed a breaker bar. pretty rusty threads
** bolt closest to gas tank, needed a 12 inch extension also.
20180331_101142.jpg
20180331_124400.jpg
T-case side
Marked the oem shaft incase something happens. might try tinkering with the bearing and replacing it. just for everyones knowledge on here.
Remove the 6 bolts connecting the drive shaft to the T-case side. it was seized on their with rust. so i partially threaded one bolt back (as seen in pic) and went to work on the rear diff side so it would just fall out. n be dangling. ( bolt head size - i think these were 6.5MM )
20180331_103450.jpg
20180331_124357.jpg
replacement bolts - came with drive shaft (use size 6 Hex key)
20180331_124354.jpg
** i threaded all 6 new bolts into the t-case flange to check / clean the threads.
Rear Diff side
12MM - 12 point socket with a breaker bar after 10 minutes of PB plaster... broke my 3/8 drive Blue hawk socket.... so i bought KOBALT Deep and short. you will need the DEEP Socket. because a socket or breaker bar wont clear the u joint unless you use an extension, but then you loose torque and its not as snug/direct. prolly do able.
20180331_124402.jpg
COMPARISON
almost had a heart attack thinking the small shaft was to short. but BoominExplorer saved me and told me its a slip yoke and slides out when you pull on it... THANK YOU!
20180331_131254.jpg
INSTALLING
YOU MUST ALIGN ALL TE YELLOW MARKINGS, NOTE THE ONES ON THE SPLINES where rear and fron shaft connect. this is a MUST for proper balance.
Cariier Bearing.
remove the nuts(19MM) and leaving the bolts, that came with the replacement, in the bearing mount on the shaft.
the shorter shaft goes up first.slide the side that bolts to the t-case side up first and past the t-case toward the drive side then life the carrier bearing up and lift the carrier bearing mount into place. the one side of the mount on the vehicle has a bit of a lip and i had to slide it around that first to get it into place. then loosely thread the nuts on. i think these were lock nuts but i still used lock-tite. you will need to adjust the positioning of the carrier bearing at the end then fully torque it in place, essentially aligning the drive shaft.
20180331_141612.jpg
T-case side
use provided bolts (6 bolts, size 6 Hex) you will be a long socket extension of some and a U joint adapter for others. i lock-tited them and just made them as tight as i could being that i didnt have my torque wrench on me. also couldnt find the torque spec for this side.
**bolt in yellow square has a paint in the A$$. used a Hex key.
20180331_124354.jpg
20180331_142923.jpg
20180331_142923.jpg
Rear diff side
didnt get a picture. but i reused the old bolts as they weren't in bad shape and used a liberal amount of loc-tite. also i threaded them into the flange on the rear diff side before i installed the u joint and lock-tite to it to clean and test the threads.
*torqued to 82 ft-lbs
tighten down carrier bolts and use lock-tite. (blue)
i used a 3/4 wrench onto the bolts ontop as i couldn't fit a ratched. then i wedged that against the body. then i used my ratchet to snug the bolts and then torqued them to 41-ft lbs.
20180331_150703.jpg
double checked all the bolts. i turn the truck on and turned off the True TRac and ABS and looked for anything obvious in the drive shaft for a few minutes as is spun. then let the truck st over night to let the lock-tite harden up.
review:
4/5
for $750 plus $50 for shipping. with a 7.50 coupon code - 'BATMAN' i would have expected 4 new replacement bolts for the rear, a small tube of locktite and little better instructions with torque specs too...
fort wayne if you see this think about make install videos and put them on your youtube channel or website!
This product looks and feels way more durable, beefier and is going to be alot more serviceable in the future.
shipping came in under a week. and the people over there were nice and helpful but they are closed on weekends so any support help on weekends is out of the question.
will stop back in a few weeks and give an update. Hope this helps anyone who was thinking about purchasing this product
