1986 Ranger 2.3 gas-putting & stalling after replacing spark plugs, etc.

[bozo4ford]

Whew!
I'm not losing my pizza mind after all. Jokes on me. No coffee, so gullible. Now I'm going to reheat some pizza. Thanks!

 

[Rick]

OMG, my eyes are watering!!!

 

[fishinfinatic]

Did you replace the MAP sensor yet? Mine had almost the same symptoms, had a bad brake booster and MAP sensor. Got the MAP sensor replaced yesterday and fixed the idle, going to replace brake booster tonight.

 

[bfresh]

Relay

There are three relays a/c, fuel pump, and eec (computer). The green one is usually the fuel pump relay.

 

[fishinfinatic]

ended up taking it somewhere, can't remember which sensor it was, think it was the map or mas sensor. ended up being almost $300 cause the had to spend so much time trouble shooting and narrowing it down to which sensor. if i did it again i would just order them all and replace them one at a time, saving the ones i replaced, until i fixed it. it was a very frustrating problem because there are like 6 sensors that will cause very similar symptoms when they go bad.

 

[bozo4ford]

86 Ranger 2.3 EFI Gas - Truck poops out, sounds like fuel problem?

May 25, 2012
Hello my friends once again...here we are. After my last post, everything seemed to cleared up again, it was running fine, then it pooped out again, then I have to rev up my RPM'S, just to hobble back home, so I think the first thing is to think about is maybe the fuel filter. The truck idles fine and steady, so I doubt it could be the MAP sensor, ignition control module, or even the EGR Valve, who knows? The truck just loses power, then I rev it up just to get home. I have never replaced my EGR Valve, sensor, fuel pressure regulator, but have replaced my Air control valve,Ignition control module,Pick up coil, all new wires, a new Fuel relay switch, but it looks like my ECC relay is all corroded. About eleven years ago, i replaced the smaller in line fuel filter FF616, (autozone) but just bought the bigger FF679 (autozone) and the disconnect tool, but now find i can not fit underneath and do the replacement, since it's so very tight.

Autozone told me sometimes the EGR valve gets stuck, and I should remove it, clean it with carb cleaner, then spray it with WD-40. The plunger or whatever gets stuck. Another poster here or another ford forum told me you can’t clean it, this part always has to be replaced with new. Is this true, becuz we are talking about $80.00.



So IF I'm able to install FF~
(1) Disconnect the fuel pump relay switch I have about three different generic switches over the passengers side, under the plastic shield (near the air bypass valve) they are about 1-1/2” x 2” each. Got to find out which one.
(2) Start engine until it dies.
(3) Remove gas cap to DE-pressurize gas tank. Put it back on.
(4) On the rail near the filter, there should be a pressure relief stem. Expel any pressure.
(5) Drain or siphon any remaining gas into a receptacle.
(6) Replace filter using some weird looking tool that I was told I needed.
Do I need to purge or prime the line by loosening the air vent on the conditioner housing until gas flows freely without any air bubbles?

1) Do I really need to disconnect the fuel relay switch, if I release pressure using that valve near the filter? I’ll have to find the right switch first.
2) Prime and purge the line?

UPDATE…
Well, I drove down today to get the mail, and it seemed to run again. Very temperamental. So, not too sure what to do, if anything. This truck wants to conk out intermittedly, runs good one day, crappy the next.

I wish I could afford to replace both fuel filters, one corroded relay switch, (picture below) EGR Valve, and hope one of those were the culprit. I think in all these years, I’ve only replaced the smaller FF616 filter about 11 years ago.

OK, since I do not have a jack or hydraulic lift, it appears I can not get under my rail to R/R the Autozone’s FF679-G800 Filter, and the handy-dandy Fuel line disconnect tool. I found another empty filter box which I think was the filter I once replaced back in 2001, which cleared up that problem. Autozone’s FF616DL, or #FF616. I think this was also located in front of, or behind the bigger fuel filter on the rail.

In looking at my relay switches over on the passenger side, by the intake control valve, I see three.
One -The ECC relay for the computer,
Second - The Fuel Pump relay switch.
Third - maybe my blower fan power switch, but that box caught fire many years ago, so I just taped over it with electrical tape.

One of those relays are corroded...BIG TIME. It comes off the harness cluster, and I guess I can use any universal switch as long as they have four inside flat contacts…three facing one way, and the other facing against these. I think they are called a multi-function switch, but I need the bottom side connected to the harness, not the top side that plugs into it, that's fine. I took a few pics to show you what I'm dealing with.

Thank you!

 

[rickybobby]

check all of your ground connections. I had an 86 with the 2.9, and it would randomly lose all power and smoke black from the tail pipe. If i floored it it would clear up for a bit, then do the same thing again. Turned out the ground for the pcm was bad and it was running so rich it would flood while driving down the road. Repaired the bad ground and it ran like a top until it burned to the ground

 

[bozo4ford]

Heya rickybobby from kalamazoo!

Thank you, but as a novice, I'm drawing a blank as to what a PCM is. Something to do with the main Computer? thx

 

[rickybobby]

the PCM is the main computer

 

[bozo4ford]

OK, where is it located?
Do you happen to know where the Schrader valve for de-pressurizing the fuel system? I was told to look at the vacuum tree over by the EGR, or is it by the throttle body?

I ordered a pig tail female connector for the fuel pump (the corroded looking switch pictured above) This original 4 wire pig tail comes off the wire harness along with the (1) Blower fan switch, and...correct me if I'm wrong.... (2) The EEC, or ECC relay switch (which I think is different than the EEC-IV TGI, which I think is located directly under the distributor cap and controls idle????) What is that other relay with the fuel pump relay switch called? I thought it was ECC computer relay. I hope by replacing this switch, it may help, since these four wires are related to~
1) YELLOW-Ignition fused power/fuel pump fuse
2) BROWN- Fuel pump outlet
3) RED-Power from ECC Power relay, and
4) TAN,Red, or yellow w/stripe-Fuel pump relay control. We'll see.

Happy Memorial weekend!

 

[rickybobby]

the schrader valve is in the fuel rail. and the pcm is inside the passenger's side kick panel

 

[bozo4ford]

One of my relay switches was all corroded, so I ordered a new one from pep boys, BWD PT5685...In looking at the new switch bottom side, with lock tabs on the bottom, the two smaller spades are top, and middle, and the bottom spade is larger.

On the Ford OE pigtail switch I’m replacing, this has the same female plug-ins as my NEW SWITCH, so even though the harness wire coming off the pig-tail harness has that BIG FAT STRIPED WIRE going into the Middle hole, does this only mean this spade gets more power to this smaller middle tab, and NOT to the larger tab on the bottom?

I ordered a pig tail female connector for the fuel pump (the corroded looking switch pictured above) this original 4 wire pig tail comes off the wire harness along with the (1) Blower fan switch, and...Correct me if I'm wrong.... (2) The EEC, or ECC relay switch (which I think is different than the EEC-IV TGI, which I think is located directly under the distributor cap and controls idle????) What is that other relay with the fuel pump relay switch called? I thought it was ECC computer relay. I hope by replacing this switch, it may help, since these four wires are related to~

This (below) may have everything to do with the Fuel pump relay switch, and not the Computer relay in the same location.
1) YELLOW-Ignition fused power/fuel pump fuse
2) BROWN- Fuel pump outlet
3) RED-Power from ECC Power relay, and
4) TAN, Red, or yellow w/stripe-Fuel pump relay control. We'll see.

OK. I thought I was already to GO! I bought a female 4-wire pig tail relay switch (or maybe it’s just called an electrical connector from Pep Boys # PT5685) Looking at this NEW box relay with the lock tabs on the bottom,

The NEW wire configuration has this-
On the right side, there are three wires coming down,

Top right - solid BROWN,
Middle Bottom -solid Red.
Bottom – bigger orange with Stripe green
Left bottom - One YELLOW (facing other way)


The OLD wire configuration has this-
Top right - solid Black
Middle - Fat Red with Green Stripe
Bottom - solid Red.
Left bottom - One YELLOW (facing other way)

Question? Do I match old wire locations with new wire locations, switch to switch, or do I match the fatter, bigger striped wire with the same, even though they are not in the same location on the switch?

My NEW pig-tail switch has the larger BIG FAT STRIPED WIRE coming out of the bottom female connector. Ford has their big fat wire coming out of the middle pig-tail.

Some say match exactly to what’s already there…wire to wire, and others say to match the big fat wire to that other big fat wire, that’s why as much time this has all taken, I am getting pretty confused for something that seems so simple! I’d hate very much to cross wire and cause additional problems. thx

 

[bozo4ford]

86' Ranger engine stalling & cutting out!!!

1986 Ranger / 2.3 EFI Gas / 5-speed / 4 Cylinder / 140 Cid / SOHC

Well here we go once again!

I have posted here before on my stalling issues, but here is somewhat of an update. I replaced my in-line fuel filter on June 4th, and still having doggy problems. This does not happen all the time when I drive, but mysteriously happens at any given time. The mechanic agreed it was dogging out on his test drive. He replaced the Fuel filter and cleaned the IAC (intake air control) located off my air filter housing on passengers side. He also increased my idle on the throttle body. He agreed that replacing the filter may or may not help my problem, and also said this is a process of elimination trying to diagnose what exactly is causing this, but thinks it sounds more of a fuel problem than vacuum or emissions. BUT he could be wrong.

He said that he found metal shavings in my fuel filter (it’s the original and 26 years old) no doubt from my fuel pump, which appears to be breaking down because of it’s age.

So last night I attempted to go to the store. I started it up, and then put it in 1st gear, then it stalled. I had to rev it up pretty much, and kept it high RPMS for a couple of minutes, then let it just warm up for about ten minutes, this somewhat helped. I proceeded to the store, and I successfully made it back home, (Hooray!) but this uncertainly when and where this will conk out is driving me bananas!

So I’m thinking …
Fuel injector service...has not been done in years.
Fuel pressure regulator...I can get to the front two allen screws, but not the back closest to the fuel solenoid injector rod. Is there special tool, or just need patience and time unscrewing that screw? This could be causing stalling?
OR it maybe these things…..

EGR valve,
Cap and Rotor,
TFI Module...have replaced three in 26 years.
Replace my IAC valve?...I’ve only cleaned it, never replaced it.
ECC relay, I’ve already replaced my fuel relay. need help with wiring of spade locations. (previous posts, photos here in this forum)
Map sensor, etc.
Maybe my problems are both fuel and emissions?

It’s hard to diagnose without replacing every conceivable part that are suspect.

So, if the truck needs warming up before it stops stalling out, what would be the first thing anyone would suspect other than the newly replaced fuel filter?

Someone on this, or another ford forum told me he replaced his in-line fuel filter because of similar problems on his 1987 Ranger, then went back and replaced the in-line reservoir, which I think Ford used to call the secondary fuel filter, then his problems went away.

Thanks for any help or ideas to shorten my list of potential problem causing parts !

 

[bozo4ford]

Hi,
With over 160,000 miles on the this 26 year old antique, there are no scheduled maintenance. I try to replace plugs and wires every few years, if needed. Air filter, gas cap, water cap, clean AIC valve, which so far, has never been replaced. The cap and rotor.
Fuel pressure regulator ~ I had to remove the distributor cap and rotor to get a hold of that back allen screw. It took me forever, but trying my patience every step of the way, I did it. I did not have any light oil to put on the gasket, but hopefully it helped replacing it, since it’s never been done before.

I also replaced the relays. The 4 pigtail wires exactly the way the OEM comes out of the harness, regardless of the BIG FAT striped wire going into the wrong spade location as the OEM. (I think I have photos posted in previous posts here)

It runs. I can, and will not say for the better, but so far, it hasn’t stalled the few times I went down the street for a test drive...(or blew a fuse, because of the way the relay could have been wired wrong)

The rotor had a little carbon on top, that, and the cap has not been replaced since about four years ago, same with spark plugs. I usually replace air filter every other test only smog test. The spark plug wires, well not so often. I would hate to have to replace my TFI module again after four times in the life of the truck.

I don’t want to be negative, but I’m thinking I’m not completely out of the woods just yet. That in-line reservoir might be the next thing, along with cleaning or replacing my injectors, they might be dirty. THX

 

[bozo4ford]

Hi,
Still stalling and having to keep RPMs high to avoid stalling out.

With over 160,000 miles on the this 26 year old antique, there are no scheduled maintenance. I try to replace plugs and wires every few years, if needed. Air filter, gas cap, water cap, clean AIC valve, which so far, has never been replaced. The cap and rotor.
Fuel pressure regulator ~ I had to remove the distributor cap and rotor to get a hold of that back allen screw. It took me forever, but trying my patience every step of the way, I did it. I did not have any light oil to put on the gasket, but hopefully it helped replacing it, since it’s never been done before.

I also replaced the relays. The 4 pigtail wires exactly the way the OEM comes out of the harness, regardless of the BIG FAT striped wire going into the wrong spade location as the OEM. (I think I have photos posted in previous posts here)

It runs. I can, and will not say for the better, but so far, it hasn’t stalled the few times I went down the street for a test drive...(or blew a fuse, because of the way the relay could have been wired wrong)

The rotor had a little carbon on top, that, and the cap has not been replaced since about four years ago, same with spark plugs. I usually replace air filter every other test only smog test. The spark plug wires, well not so often. I would hate to have to replace my TFI module again after four times in the life of the truck.

I don’t want to be negative, but I’m thinking I’m not completely out of the woods just yet. That in-line reservoir might be the next thing, along with cleaning or replacing my injectors, they might be dirty.

The recent relay TOP SWITCH, I just replaced was Black top connected to a white bottom, which plugs into the OEM BROWN Harness (Must be ECM, or ECC Relay) The other switch I replaced last year was a Black top connected to a white bottom, that connects to a GREEN OEM pigtail harness, which should be the FUEL RELAY.

 

[bozo4ford]

UPDATE - JULY 18, 2012
1986 Ranger / 2.3 Gas EFI / 5-Speed / SOHC / 4-Cyl.

Ok, I replaced the 4 wires exactly the way they were coming out of the harness and into the new switch. So far,so good, with no burnt fuses. Truck still stalling after starting engine.

Well, I just replaced cap and rotor, and at first it seemed to have a little pep when starting the engine, but after trying to replace the plastic cover back over my relays as the engine was running, it’s pretty much back to stalling a few times before the engine stays at an idle.



Last week, I had removed the plastic shroud cover protecting my AIC, and relays, and other stuff attached to my passengers side fender wall, until I was sure after I re-wired the new pigtail to relay switch, to make sure it did not blow a fuse from mis-wiring the four wires from the harness to the switch. (previous posts)



Funny thing, though. Yesterday, as the engine was running, I tried to carefully place that plastic cover of back over those relays, and at first, suddenly, the engine revved up a little higher idle, then I tried to feel around for any lose connections, but that did not yield any suspects. I continued to move around the cover to see if it would do this again, but this time, the engine just stalled out.

So now I’m thinking there could be a short somewhere in this area, when the plastic piece touched something…..But what could that? Any ideas?

Thanks yet again for any and all replies.

 

[Tbars4]

So now I’m thinking there could be a short somewhere in this area, when the plastic piece touched something…..But what could that? Any ideas?

..I think you are on to something..

..You need to look at the wires and connections..Wish you could post some pictures of what all is in this area for future readers (It also let's others quickly identify possibly problems too..)

...When looking at the wires in the area I liken it as looking for paper-cuts on your fingers..If you ar lucky and the wire is somewhat clean you may be able to see a very small black mark on the wire from arcing out (shorting)..

..Another way to find the problem is look at it a bit differently..Look at it as, what will and can these wires bump into that's metal under the most extreme of conditions..

..Odds are that a wire was abused one time only but just enough to get a "paper-cut" slit to happen and now allows voltage to jump out and ground somewhere..

..I had a similar condition with the solenoid purge valve wiring on my Ranger..It would only stall on a hard right turn but it would kill all power so no steering or brakes either..

..It turns out it was a "paper-cut" slit and when I turned sharp it would arc to the battery tray and ground out the computer..

...Needless to say, it sounds like wherever your problem is it is grounding out your computer too..

..Another observation is to see what wires may be getting ever so slightly moved from a connection, relay, or other wire input, when putting the plastic cover on..Start in the back and work your way to the front..

 

[bozo4ford]

Tbars4,
Ok, here are a few pics.

If you happen to know what those two boxes are joined together attached to the fender well wall..I blew up the photo and placed a white frame around it.

I have three relays..The blower fan, the ECC computer, and fuel relay and quite honestly, I don't remember which relay is what. All I've been told in the past was that Ford had the OEM relays as Green for Fuel, and Brown for ECC relay.

Thanks!

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6965&pictureid=104924

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6965&pictureid=104925

Is there an easier way to upload photos here on this site with Jpgs, and not with URLS/Http://?

 

[Tbars4]

..Access is denied to the links you posted..

Is there an easier way to upload photos here on this site with Jpgs, and not with URLS/Http://?

..Use the image tool at the top of the quick reply box..

..Click on it then paste your http/ pic/jpeg ..

 

[bozo4ford]

July 22, 12
Thanks Tbars4!
Ok you stated "access was denied", but are you able to still see those pictures like I can? If not, I will re-post.
Sunday 7-22-12 ~ Here is an update to what’s been going on with my truck. I turn the key over; it tries to start, but stalls. The second try it usually starts right up, but then I smell the strong smell of gas.

I popped the hood then looked at the fuel pressure regulator that I just put in two weeks ago, and did not see any leaking wet fuel, and the vac line also did not have any visible wet gas in the line.

What do you think that is when it first stalls out, then second time starts up, then strong odor of gas?

________________________

UPDATE July 29th, 2012

For the last ten times when I started the truck, it has been starting right up without stalling like it did before, I also do not smell the strong odor of gas.....So now what? What could cause this intermittent starting or stalling, then seems normal again? I know it could be Anything? thx