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1991 explorer fuse panel diagram

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by jamenblack, May 1, 2008.

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    1. jamenblack

      jamenblack New Member

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      City, State:
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      Year and Model:
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      how can I find a diagram to the fuse panel of my '91 xlt if I don't have the owner's manual? It's not in the Hayne's repair manual either. If anyone could help me with this I sure would appreciate it
       
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    3. Old Hippie

      Old Hippie New Member

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    4. fixxxer

      fixxxer Well-Known Member

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    5. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    6. kaneda_77

      kaneda_77 New Member

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    7. jwfelts

      jwfelts New Member

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      I have a 1991 Ford Explorer that has not been driven in two years and would not start. I read the codes, replaced the fuel pump, and started the engine with no problem. It seemed to be running fine until I put it in gear and drove it down the road. It begain to spit and sputter and had no power at all. I can push the gas petal to the floor and it will only go slow. I returned home and put the transmission in park and it seems to idle fine. Do not have a clue what could cause this problem. Please Help!
       
    8. FatherMcD

      FatherMcD New Member

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      Ground issue?

      If you haven't already fixed this, check the fuel pump ground. I have a '94 ranger that had similar symptoms. If you have a fuel pressure tester, check that the pressure stays in the 20+ psi range when you open the throttle. Does your fuel gauge read empty when you still have 4-5 gals in the tank? I found over 80 ohms between the ground wire from the fuel pump that connects to the grounding bolt on the top of the drivers side fender under the hood and the battery ground. (Your ground connection may be in a different place and ALWAYS test to the negative post on the battery, not the wire connected to it.) I replaced the connector on the end of the wire and resistance dropped to less than 1/10 ohm. Fuel gauge problem fixed, but still had the low pressure problem. The connector to the fuel pump on top of the tank looked charred so I pulled the pump and found obvious overheating in the wiring. High resistance at the same voltage requires higher amps to provide the power, hence the wiring was burning out between the connector and the pump, and the pump itself was nearly fried. Replaced the pump/sender and was able to remove the wires from the old connector on top of the tank and clip them into the new one. (the connector was charred, but the wires themselves were OK) You've already replaced the pump, but a weak ground will cause it to have low output and eventually burn out. I suspect that is what happened to your original pump. I had been having driveability issues with this truck for months, but couldn't pin them down. This fixed them. Hope this helps!
       

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