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1995 ford explorer temperature gauge problem

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by jmccart, November 27, 2007.

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    1. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      hey ove got a 95 xlt and it gets warm on the gauge then it drops to cold, warms up again and does the same thing over and over, its getting horrible fuel mileage and i want to get this sorted out before i go further with the egr code any help is appreciated thanks. i seen the tsb coolant bypass kit but cannot get it any more im told any one have any info? ive done lots of reading but cant seem to find a solid answer, everyone seems to have problems with them fluctuating high rather then to cold
       
      Last edited: November 27, 2007
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    3. dmac0923

      dmac0923 Active Member

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      i had to replace the actual gauge on my 95 that was doing the same thing as yours
       
    4. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      i thought that as well but grounded it out and it went full hot, also when it drops to the colder side i feel it in the heat, doesnt go cold but goes from a hot to more mildish temp coming from the vents
       
    5. mikeh44

      mikeh44 Active Member

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      when is the last time you changed your thermostat
       
    6. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      changed it as soon as it did it i just bought it and have this prob, i figured that was it, changed it and it does the same thing
       
    7. mikeh44

      mikeh44 Active Member

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      this may sound dumb but did you put it in correctly
       
    8. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      yea lol its in right, i work in a dealership just not a ford one, its got us stumped never seen anything like this before i was hoping someone here has seen it or similar
       
    9. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      Are you getting heat? Did you scan the PCM for the Coolant temp PID? Did you change the one wire sender? Are you using a Ford OEM stat?
       
    10. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      Also, does your stat have the little hole on the top? Some aftermarket ones do not. This hole helps bleed trapped air in this engine. You must purge air out of the 4.0 properly. The fluctuation could be air pockets in the coolant or even water pump cavitation/airlock. Follow the refill procedure in the owners manual. A new motorcraft stat, temp sender, and proper air bleeding solved all heat and gauge problems.
       
    11. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      do you happen to have proper bleeding procedure i dont have a manual, we did bleed it everytime the gauge would drop wed get bubbles out of the rad
       
    12. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      do you happen to have proper bleeding procedure i dont have a manual, we did bleed it everytime the gauge would drop wed get bubbles out of the rad
      also how can i check the pcm since i cant use a obd2 scanner
       
    13. Letalon239

      Letalon239 New Member

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      I have a 1996 limited 5.0 and it do the same think...So i changed the t-stat with ford oem...no change. I was thinking about the clutch fan because my fan start as soon as I start the truck...he is always running. It is normal?
       
    14. Explorer914

      Explorer914 New Member

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      Mine does something similar, my temp gauges usually stays a good amount past the C. but never to the half way mark...but sometimes it will go to the half way mark and then drop back down to where it normally sits...
       
    15. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      www.motorcraft.com has owners manuals with the bleed procedure. If you have a 95, pick the 96 model. You have to warm the car up with the radiator cap in the notched (relief) position. Then let it cool a bit, and top off. Again, I solved this problem with a full garden hose heater core/block flush (take it easy on the pressure), a new one wire sender, new oem stat and following factory bleed procedure. The gauge now moves slightly around the center temperature symbol. It used to move between C and normal. It never went above 1/2way when it was malfunctioning.

      A fan clutch is usually OK if there is some resistance felt when you spin it when the car is off. It should not be hard to spin but yet it should not freewheel.
       
    16. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      the clutch is alright im just wondering about the bubbles, the heat is not great either, it blows warm but does not get to temp inside like it should
       
    17. Letalon239

      Letalon239 New Member

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      It could be your head gasket...
       
    18. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      thats what im afraid of
       
    19. Letalon239

      Letalon239 New Member

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      Where do you can see bubbles? On the coolant reserve?
       
    20. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      update

      its not bubbling in the res but with the cap off it kinda pushes antifreeze out not bubbling tho also i seen the upper rad hose collapse what would cause this its a new hose so i know thats not the problem
       
    21. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      I dont understand. Are you bleeding with the cap in the first notched postion? This helps build up some pressure. You should not bleed with the cap off. It is normal for the hose to collapse on the first bleed after the tstat opens. In a few minutes after the car cools off, CAREFULLY with a rag slowly open the cap. Now add up coolant to the radiator, repeat with the cap fully closed.

      Also, you never mentioned if your stat has a bleed hole. What brand stat do you have?
       
    22. jmccart

      jmccart New Member

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      i bled it that way today, replaced the tsat again with a ford one, changed the gauge sending unit, ran some rad flush through it then drained it and refilled the cooling system, heat is better, gauge doesnt fluctuate as much but still noticable and way more then normal, heats better but still cools off, one heater core hose is hot one mildly warm im thinking there might be a build up inside the heater core
       
    23. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      My next step would be to flush the radiator and heater core. Be sure to use a low to medium pressure with a hose. A full blast garden hose in a clogged core is a disaster. I'm also wondering if your heater control valve is flaky. Maybe bypass it with hose joiners to see if it makes a difference.

      also, these trucks need a few thousand miles to get all the air out of the system. It even says so in the manual that they may bleed up to 8oz of coolant in 7500 miles!
       
    24. 96eb96

      96eb96 Well-Known Member

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      Flaky heat on these trucks can also be a crappy blend door. That is another story.
       
    25. craigger

      craigger New Member

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      i have heard that there is a coolant bypass kit to let more water flow though because there is not bypass on the water pump, can't seem to find it though. the system is said to rely on the heater core for circulation before the stat opens. Don't know if this is true. I have the same problem, fluctuates from 1/4 to 1/2 guage reading no matter how far you drive it or where the heater is set.
       
    26. 92xlt4x4

      92xlt4x4 Member

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      so i have a 92 xlt 4x4. I had to change the freeze plug on the back of my engine. i can actually do a simple write up on this if necessary. But my temp gauge is doing the same thing. I believed i bled the system properly. I also changed the thermostat before this freeze plug went bad.

      So it heats up and seems like my thermostat opens up and the it goes down. Hangs out at the lower temp then goes up again. This is really frustrating. Let me know if any of these things listed have helped with this.
       

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