Discussion in 'Elite Explorer Registry' started by Spudhut, November 21, 2017.
Nothing major comes to mind.
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Is there a preferred parts you recommend? Ill certainly peform that replacement.
AOD AODE 4R70W Steel Bonded Rubber Accumulator Kit 1-2 2-3 With 3 Springs New HD | eBay
Looks very good, I bought mind from Ford, but who knows if they even have the springs. Ford dealer maybe be the same or less. I know trucks use the pink spring, not sure how much of a difference it makes, but it affects the shift feel (a car may be softer). I'm sure that kit would do.
The 98+ 4R70W's are very solid units, only about 2001 did Ford change something in the VB that created a new weakness issue, and the "TSB" is to replace the VB plate with a thicker one, or add back the small reinforcement plate that Ford eliminated. Sonnax sells both ways to correct that.
The 97 and older 4R's have unsealed DTRS sensors, the range sensor. It's possible for moisture to effect them over time, so it's always wise to replace those. The accumulators have updated versions, always replace those. Sonnax is an excellent source for almost anything needed beyond the basic rebuild parts, which are all great already.
The J-Mod is a cool upgrade to perform on any 4R trans, but it's not documented very well for the trucks. The hole choices, and springs, are kind of a guess for our trucks. Some have done it but not posted what holes and springs they drilled/used. I researched it quite a bit last year, but didn't have time then to go at it. After I fix my 99 truck, then I can begin work to my 98 again.
Is there a build date at which the transmission was improved? I have an early 98 that was manufactured in 97.
I was going to go with this with the predrilled factory plate so I know the JMod was done correctly since the trucks are slightly different. BCA DIY AODE, 4R70W, 4R75W AND 4R70E JMOD KIT 1996- PRESENT . It also makes the installation easier and quicker for me.
The change happened with the 1998 model year, not during a model year. The J-Mod affects each different Ford model differently, it'll be close from one to another. That kit should get you in the ball park, get the other parts along with that(solenoids, accumulators etc).
I went to local JY and picked up a 'new' latch for rear door and front door window regulator.
~The locking mechanism on the original latch was Gunky and binding badly to the point where I could not open the door. I even had my hands in the door pulling different rods to get the darn thing to budge...What a pain!! Replacement was easy. 3 screws on the outside and popping a few rods off for clearance. It was just a pain to squeeze that thing in and out of place with all the rods dangling from it! The good thing about Junk Yards, your able to learn how to remove and/or install on their cars before you do your own.
Install time took about 30 min.
~Good working electric window regulator was installed. I always bring my cordless drill with me in case I might need to use it and I can use the battery to test electrical parts like window motors to ensure they are working properly onsite rather than finding out when you get home.
For all that don't know, Ford uses (3) rivets and (2) nuts to hold the unit in place. I used a small drill bit to remove the rivet heads and popped the body through the door skin. To remove the regulator from the glass, I used a large screwdriver and pried the glass off the (2) glass retainer clips on the upper channel. (don't remove your clips on YOUR vehicle this way, this is to just get the glass off so you can get the regulator out to take home)
To install, I drilled out and removed the rivets from my original broken unit and loosened the nuts from door holding it in place (dont remove them just yet).
I Drilled out and removed (2) rivets on upper channel holding the glass retainers in place. (there is a pre-punched hole in the door you can insert your drill bit through if you lower the window enough This will allow you to separate the regulator from the glass retainer clips. The holes in the upper channel that were holding the regulator clips are just the right size for a 7/16 x 1/4" x 1/2" long bolt and nut. I used lock-tite on the nuts just to make sure they don't come loose.
Prep 'new' regulator for install to receive your original glass retainer clips in the door. Install the new regulator and bolt in place. Where the rivets were, use the bolts listed above. It's a simple swap out, just watch your fingers when installing the regulator and rolling the unit up and down.
Install time took me about 30 min.
Sure is gratifying to fix these issues! One more regulator to fix on passenger side and all the doors will done!
Like your EX. The color is a nice color. I will be following your build.
That's the dark green I think was also on a few Limited's then. I'm going to repain ym green 99 that color next year, after replacing the hatch and bumper, fill the sunroof hole, the LF door etc. This is the 93/94 dark green color I have it know, called Dark Tourmaline Pearl. I'm ready for a little color change.
Yeah, whatever you do, don't use a large screwdriver and pry the glass off the (2) glass retainer clips on the upper channel, that's EXACTLY what someone did to my 2000's driver's front window, and I've got to replace the window because of it, because glue it back together? Good luck, I've tried everything, I wish I could though.
That sucks. People have to use better judgement at what their comfortable with doing. When I pulled the regulator out at the junk yard, I used a screw driver and they slipped off very easily. When I tried it on my own vehicle, they were glued on there good. I swapped to trying other methods which led me to drilling out the rivets going forward.
I've got the rivet gun, I just hope it won't break the glass doing those window brackets. I have new glass for almost all of my windows, so it'll be fun.
Drilling out the old rivets was simple, there were access holes in the door skin that allowed the drill bit to get in there easily.
I used 7/16 x1/4x1/2 bolts and nuts and thread locker (or lock washer), worked like a charm. Reaching your hand behind to mount the regulator to the inner skin was an easy task.
Probably a stupid question but busting the glass? There holes in the bottom of the glass? I hate working on car doors so this is all new to me since I don't make a habit of them.
That is a great question, how much is tight but not too tight?
No holes in the glass. There are 2 'clamp' brackets that are epoxied to the bottom of the glass. Those brackets attach to the regulator arm that moves up and down.
The bolts I used I made hand tight since they don't pivot or need to move - Just hold the glass to the regulator. Their tightness have no bearing on the glass itself.
That's right, I forgot that. The old Fords(70's etc) have holes in the glass which have brackets riveted on with. The newer method is much better, just sealant well sandwiched in a bracket.
Keeping the rear channel lubricated with silicone foam spray is the key to prevent it from "window clocking" again. The rear edge of the window gets snagged but the regulator keeps pulling it down, and after several times the glue clamp lets go. The front channel needs some lube also but the rear being a longer guide is the hang up.
I have had success using layers of 2 sided tape in the channel part,use a metal straight edge to get it into the channel good, leaving the backer strip on the exposed side. Use a c clamp to adjust (bend) the bracket to just the thickness of the glass.
Now, shove the glass in and then remove the backer from the tape to the glass, which is the tricky step. Then bolt the brackets to the regulator.
Just wanted to drop a quick update. The Heater Fan issue has been driving me CRAZY.
I went to the JY over the weekend to pull a 'new' fan just to make sure the fan that have wasn't the culprit. I replaced the fan motor resistor assembly before and no change.
To reiterate my issue - Fan blows at all speeds but, the air just didn't seem to be flowing appropriately though the vents. Heck, I even thought the fan was blowing backwards.....So I compared it to my 97 Sport. (nice to have a 2nd working vehicle to compare) When I turned on the fan in the V8, it sounded louder as if it was working harder than normal. TORNADO!
I pulled the 'old' fan and installed the new. Turned it on and no change (Argh!)....so I just sat there (frustrated ) thinking of each aspect of the system to ensure I didn't overlook anything...Im telling you, i checked everything next to pulling the box and cutting it open!....Then it hit me - the only thing it HAS TO BE is maybe a rodent built a nest in the box (remember I pulled a ton of acorns from the fan area when I got it)...there wasn't anything flying out of the vents...but hey, what the heck....its got to be the only reason why air was not moving in the box.
As the fan was on full blast, I went under the hood to feel around the fan and box area on passenger side....I notice that air was blowing on the outside...it was coming from the rubber cooling hose that connects the fan motor to the box...Air WAS moving! Comparing to the other Explorer, it wasn't right. It was like a compressor blowing air from an open hose....
So I pulled the fan back out to look inside...I noticed on the Evaporator side there was a pocket but it had what looked to be factory insulation in the hole....NO...it was a dang squirrels nest that was blown/compressed up against the fins....I swear, it was so perfect that it looked 'factory' in nature. I got the shop vac out and sucked all that I could...I figured, if it was 'factory', Ill just throw some jute I had with my upholstery gear to replace it....
Are you kidding me! That was it!
Now the fan sounds 'smoother' and quieter just like its little SPORT brother.
A definite 'hammer on the head' moment for me; but hey, I'm still happy none the less....and one less Gremlin to worry about!
I hope this helps someone....
Good deal, done. Did you find the white striped gremlin in there, Spike was his name?
Worked on the Ex again this weekend to attempt to fix the 'non-working' Temp gauge. Having experience with this sort of thing, I pulled the wire and grounded the lead and the gauge maxed out as it should.
I checked ohm's on the temp sender and I was not getting anything on the meter. So I picked up a new one and installed it...nothing...not even any resistance on the single pin output for the gauge.
I re-installed the old unit and checked resistance on the single pin (used by connector) again, still nothing. So, I swapped over to the other un-used pin, and got roughly 2.3 milliohms on the meter. That seemed very odd to say the least since nothing (no factory wire) connected to that pin. I checked resistance between the pins and got nothing as well. So I assumed the sender I got was bad and returned it for another - different brand.
Got home, installed it.....The same thing. No reading...except, i did notice the gauge needle moved 'colder' (below cold) and did not move to indicate any heat in the block. I turned the heater on to ensure the water was heating...Yes, there was heat, but no movement on gauge needle. I re verified the gauge again, by grounding it...still functions as it should.
I know there is a 2nd temp sending unit for the PCM (??) on the left. (see picture below) It has 2 wires on it. So, I thought maybe the temp sending unit issue might be with it. I swapped the new sender into it and made the connection....still nothing.
Notice the connector differences on the senders - My question is, are these 2 senders different in functionality because they feed 2 different sources and/or do these work in conjunction to make the gauge function properly....I'm stumped...Im assuming the wire to the gauge has to be good since it responded to the ground I applied.
(Now, I did not pick up a 2nd sender to ensure 2 new units were installed. Since I did not get any changes, I held off to see what you guys thought) The new 'Generic' sender I got from Oreilly's did not have the 'tang' or slot on the top side of the connector, so it 'interchanged' between the two connection points easily.
****This factory one below goes to the left (PCM) has the slot in the middle (left side of connector)
This is a close up of the sender the gauge connects to - Notice the slot is located off center to the right.
One works the PCM, one works the needle, if memory serves gray is for the PCM and the burgundy or orange one depending on who you ask is for the gauge.
Is there a 'specific' sender required for the gauge and PCM? Ground testing confirms my gauge to be working, but new senders are not sending the right signal to gauge to work correctly...plus I'm not getting resistance on the sender when I test across pins.
I'm going to stop at the JY this week and pull a couple from cars to install and test/play around with.
I believe they're identical but the connectors won't swap, if memory serves, I'd just stop at the JY anyhow, I gave $1 a piece for the last ones I bought, they work just as good as a new one and I saved $20 a piece.