Discussion in 'Solid Axle Swap Registry' started by Skunk, March 5, 2003.
hey lizardtrac i was wondering if you had any pics of where you mounted your steering box
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crap.. pics of steering.... next on my list....
Just got done with the manual t-case swap...
i know you probably posted this before but what are 20 or so switches for? and I am surprised your interior is so clean with all the wheeling you do. Good job
i posted this in the other thread too. what perches did you use for the SOA conversion.. i need to know what to ask for at A&A tomorrow.
I bought generic perches from a local 4x4 shop and grinded on them to fit the axle tube. I payed $12 for the pair. But if you wanna go spend $45 plus shipping for some that say they are for the 8.8 off a website, then go right ahead.
I did the same thing.
then thats what i'm gonna do
I just went to a&a and asked for 2" leaf spring pirches... they gave me the correct ones, and they are pretty beafy too.. $20
hey lizard ... do ya still got your old shift motor of the auto t case if so ill take it off your hands.....
yeah.. actually I have 2 shift motors and one good 4405, and one beat on 4405
how much u want for it? the good one that is...
the whole 4405 w/shift motor, or just the shift motor, both shift motors were tested and work fine.
heres updated pics of the t-case shifter...
Now that's pretty...where'd you get that?
made it.... had the diamond plate sitting in the garage for over a year now...
Very, very nice touch...like the Ford emblem on it too.
Well im not sure i might need both the t case and the shift motor.... when i took my old shift motor off i could only turn the t case a little bit manually... does that sound right or does that sound like my t case is locked up? can you give me prices for both?
Make sure you have the truck in Neutral with the e-brake on when you try to shift the t-case by hand ...you should be able to put a pair of vise grips on the selector and enguage both positions, try turning the input, and front output shafts while trying to enguage it, if it still doesnt go into gear, the t-case may be shot. Which front output shaft do you have on yours? the round cup w/cv joint, or half moon type for cardan joints?
Lizard, I'm assuming the rear brake hose is the same between the XLT and the Sport.
Did you use Stainless Steel Extended Brake lines?
I think I read that somewhere...I may be wrong...
Do you have a Part# for the Rear and who you got it from, I put the Bronco knuckles on the front and have the Bronco tubes I'm going to try and fit to the axle for the front...I need to locate a Stainless line for the rear. What length did you use?
This is the same thing I need to know.. What are the gen 2 guys doing for the rear brake hose for SOA.
I think both Lizard and I accomplished this by simply unbolting the brake line on the driver side spring perch and routing the hard line above the spring. Doesn't exactly follow the lines above the spring, but it does the trick and still allows for all the flex you'll get out of those springs.
Awesome, this is the first answer I've gotten about this, and I've searched the entire site. I'd like to see at least another option on this but it seems like this is a solution to my problem. There are quite a few gen 2 guys that have done the SOA in the rear I'm pretty sure...
That's the same way i did mine too. Just take a wire tire or something and hang it if need be.
Did you put the diamond plate around it, because you cut a hole in the hump plate? Is that to keep the air out/in, or is it for looks?
Great Looking Explorer
One of my favorite rigs on this board...