First off, special thanks to Tbars4 and 90ranajo for their help in this thread. No way would I have done this without seeing that info first! It has been rumored that if you have a 1st Gen Explorer (or other vehicle that uses the Dana 35 TTB front end) you can swap over the knuckes and brakes from a 95-97 Ranger. I did it, and I can confirm it does indeed work quite well. Why would you want to do ALL that work? Well two good reasons: 1. Your inner pad guides have all but disappeared, your truck eats anti-rattle clips as a regular snack, and your brakes make all kinds of fun noises that make you wonder if they will really work. 2. You want better brakes. Just how good are these brakes? Compared to the standard 1st Gen ones, they use larger, thicker rotors, dual piston calipers, and *replaceable* pad guides. Pretty much the best thing ever. Here's what this setup looks like: Now before you break out the plastic and start your uncontrollable drooling : , you should take a gander at this parts list and make sure either your credit limit is high enough or you live somewhere with nice, rust free junk parts. ----Compatibility Info---- Swap candidate vehicles: 93-94 Explorer with 4WABS and 4x4 (confirmed) 91-92 Explorer with RWABS and 4x4 (should work, just ignore ABS holes) Any other vehicle that uses the Dana 35 TTB front end (compare and try at your own risk) Parts donor vehicles: 95-97 Ranger with 4WABS and 4x4, 2.3L (according to Tbars4) and 3.0 and 4.0 engines (confirmed) (If you have suggestions for this list, please let me know and I will add them) ----Parts Guide---- A listing of the parts you need, part numbers, and where to source them. An overview of the parts supply before I started: Steering knuckles: As far as I am aware, these are no longer available from Ford and will have to be gotten from an auto wrecker. I used car-part.com and lots of phone calls to track some down. I purchased them from the wrecker, and paid around $150 for some rusty lumps of junk. Best thing I could find, rust free parts are not common in the tri-state. Just for reference, according to Tbars4 the Ford part numbers are: RH F57Z-3130-A LH F57Z-3131-A Now, in no particular order, everything else you will need to complete. Prices and inventories are from 7/2011 and may have changed or no longer be stocked, but I will include them for reference. Part numbers are manufacturer's part numbers so you can get them anywhere that stocks them. Shipping charges not included. Don't forget to use a RockAuto discount code available in the vendors forum or their emails. Timken 4250 Hub Seal - firstname.lastname@example.org from RockAuto Timken SET37 Wheel Bearing - email@example.com from RockAuto Moog K8673 Ball Joint - 2 @34.79 from RockAuto Moog K8676 Ball Joint - firstname.lastname@example.org from RockAuto Dorman 13898 Caliper Bolt (pkg. of 2) email@example.com from RockAuto Raybestos FRC11523 Reman Caliper - firstname.lastname@example.org + 10.00 core from RockAuto Raybestos FRC11524 Reman Caliper - email@example.com + 10.00 core from Rock Auto Motorcraft BRR27 Rotor - firstname.lastname@example.org from Amazon Motorcraft BRAB26 Front ABS sensor - email@example.com from Amazon Motorcraft BR47B Pad Set, Semi Met. - firstname.lastname@example.org from Amazon Ford F57Z-1214-A Shield - Splash - email@example.com from FordPartsGiant.com Wagner BH133399 Brake Hose - firstname.lastname@example.org from RockAuto Wagner BH133398 Brake Hose - email@example.com from RockAuto Crown Bolt CB# 82658 Socket Cap Screw M6-1.0 x 20MM (pkg. of 2) 1@(cheap) from Home Depot Other misc hardware includes the spindle retaining nuts and the 3 short and one long small screws that attach the dust shield and ABS sensor wire clip to the knuckle, salvage these and keep them. ----Install Notes and Info---- Back when I did a guide to doing ball joints, spindle bearings, etc. This job follows that process pretty much exactly, except you swap over to the new knuckles and install the new brakes instead of reinstalling the old ones. I see no reason to repeat that, so I will simply add some notes and facts you should know. In no real order… 1. When you get the knuckles, they will probably have been torched off at the suspension beam. You will quickly realize that it is impossible to break the taper on the lower ball joint to remove the chunk of leftover suspension because it is not attached to anything. I used a grinder with DeWalt XRP Extended Performance grinding disk to cut the ball joint in half so it could be then pressed out. This is not any fun whatsoever, but those XRP grinding disks are everlasting. I used the one pictured here to grind some welds on stainless and then cut two ball joints in half, still looks like new. 2. If the spindle is stuck in the knuckle when you get it, go to AutoZone and loan-a-tool a slide hammer and the 4wd spindle puller attachment. Don't use a chisel. 3. The 12pt. 6mm bolt used to hold the ABS sensor block on will probably have its head rusted to the point that the socket will just spin. I drilled out the head and punched it with an air chisel to remove the block. Remember the block and the bolt in the abs sensor must be removed to remove the spindle. Once I did this the screw was also seized in the block, so proceed with torching it using MAPP gas and it will free up so you can use a vice-grip to remove what's left. Use the M6-1.0 x 20MM cap screws to replace them with a much more sane fastener. 4. There is no way that the ABS sensor will be removed from your old knuckle. The sensor casing is made from soft metal and the fit is very tight. The rust makes it practically impossible to remove undamaged. If your replacement Ranger knuckles have good sensors, you can use them. Mine were melted by the moron with the torch who cut them off the donor. I had to cut the sensor off with a grinder and then punch it out with the air chisel. 5. The brake hoses are only for the 95-97 Ranger and Mazda equivalent. Thus, they are hard to find. I was unlucky enough to acquire a left side box with a right side hose in it from a local supplier and the nearest 2nd one took another day to get. I got a free hat though… 6. You will need to stop the rust and paint the knuckles you get, else there might be nothing left soon. The ones I got had some serious rusticles on them, and I had to sandblast them and chip away chunks. Also due to their metallurgy, they will flash rust like crazy. Don't even think of using naval jelly (really, don't ask how I know) They need to go from sandblaster to taping to paint immediately or they will look like how they did when you started. 7. You really need an alignment when you are done. There is loads of variability in the parts. My alignment was good when i started, I put the adjustment sleeves back right where they were, and it was still all whacked out. Go to a real alignment place. No tire shop will ever get a TTB front end setup right for $79.99. My alignments cost $179 but the guy spends two hours messing with it and gets it right. If you've never driven an Explorer with a good alignment, you really should. It's amazing. The TTB is not easy or friendly to align, but it works great when its done. 8. I spent probably north of 1k on this job, and I spent a lot of time chasing parts and swearing at incorrect brake hoses. If you can source better condition used parts it should be possible for a lot less. Make sure to plan ahead, and have everything on hand, because it might be hard to get otherwise. This swap is not easy, but in my case the pad guide wear was becoming unsafe so I really had no choice. Ford no longer has replacement original knuckles to the best of my knowledge, so unless you want to do all the work to install some half dead used knuckles and get the same crappy problem again, this swap is the only way out, and it provides GREATLY improved brakes. _______________________________________________________ If anyone has questions, let me know. I'd also like to find anyone else who has also done this swap and hear their input. Hopefully this thread will let someone leverage all the work I put in researching and checking the parts compatibility and enable them to do this mod too!