2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

After getting an estimate on how much it would run me to fix up my Xploder with all new exhaust, cold side piping, and a bunch of other stuff done up the "right" way... I've decided to convert my Xploder back to NA form so that I can actually ENJOY the truck before I die of old age.

Anyways... To start it off I ordered up a MAC cold air intake (I do not have the stock intake) and sold my FMS headers on ebay.

I plan on buying a set of torque monster headers in the next week or so but am still up in the air on how I should run my exhaust from a performance "speed" perspective. I do not plan on doing much, if any, off road driving, so am looking for a setup that improves take off and speed for spirited pavement driving that sounds good.

I already have the spare tire removed (and will be keeping it off, I have free towing anyways lol)... What would an optimal setup be with the above in mind and no worry of a spare tire being in the way? True duals (straight pipe off of each header, thru separate mufflers, and out the sides), or a dual exhaust both going into a 2 in 2 out "H" pipe style muffler and then out the sides? Or something else? In all cases I won't be running any cats.

I also plan to re-tune my car since currently it is tuned for the turbo setup which obviously will no longer apply once I rip everything out.

Thank you for any input!

 

[willzilla]

The WP374, in their official documentation, has a depth of 4.75" and weighs 6.9lbs with 55GPM flow-rate and the OEM Motorcraft waterpump shows dimensions of 7.63" x 8.06" x 11.94" & 5.7lbs on the ford parts website (unsure of what the stock flow-rate is at various RPM), not sure how accurate these numbers are but that seems reasonable.

With the OEM pump I'm not sure if 7.63" is the "depth" but I assume so... If these numbers are all correct the WP374 is 2.88" thinner. More than enough room to allow for the Mark VIII fan to fit. I have not physically measured anything yet myself but will soon... Need to find something to measure with lol

I ran into an old thread on here where another guy ran the WP374 in his Explorer and he said because of the WP374 freewheeling pulley section (entire gray area) the pump bolted on and the stock belt ran on it without a problem... Hopefully this holds true for me Lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

The stock pump will be in that same 6" range, it is a very short WP.

To run a wider belt would require a pulley that allows almost 1/4" more room outboard from the stock belt. So hopefully that electric WP pulley has some unused land at the front when you get it on.

 

[willzilla]

Yeah, from looking at it on the truck it appears to be fairly thin... But I think the WP374 is a little thinner, and, a little should be all that I need I hope to yank the old pump off this weekend and compare them side by side.

I don't think I'll need a wider belt or anything like that... From the other post on here where the guy ran the WP374 pump he said the thickness of the freewheeling pulley allowed for the stock belt to ride on it inwards near the edge but without hanging over without need to shim anything.

 

[CDW6212R]

...

I don't think I'll need a wider belt or anything like that... From the other post on here where the guy ran the WP374 pump he said the thickness of the freewheeling pulley allowed for the stock belt to ride on it inwards near the edge but without hanging over without need to shim anything.

You did mention a blower, and I'm not sure if the boost I'm aiming for will create any belt slippage. I'm expecting around 10psi, depending on the limits of the chassis and the engine I put together later. I think near 500rwhp is the high end of what could work, and that may need a wider belt depending on the belt wrap at the blower pulley etc.

 

[willzilla]

You did mention a blower, and I'm not sure if the boost I'm aiming for will create any belt slippage. I'm expecting around 10psi, depending on the limits of the chassis and the engine I put together later. I think near 500rwhp is the high end of what could work, and that may need a wider belt depending on the belt wrap at the blower pulley etc.

Ooooo... Now I gotcha, haha, was wondering what you were referring to initially Makes sense.

 

[CDW6212R]

Some of the pulleys are easy to get as 8-ribs, but the WP and PS may be trouble, plus the width for a belt like that. You aren't in a hurry I'm sure, I'll be lucky to get started on the project next Winter. This year is going really slow for me.

 

[willzilla]

Made a little progress last night... Got my intake manifold off... Talk about a PITA... So much crap connected to it, lol.

 

[willzilla]

Loved finding a bunch of abandoned small wasp nests made of mud or something on the IM and various other locations in the engine bay.

 

[CDW6212R]

The EGR valve and pipe etc, right there, were the hardest part for me to R&R. I need to take that back off and clean it now, to hunt an erratic misfire etc.

Those nests are from mud daubers who fill them with spiders for their young. I just spent last week knocking down about 20 of them around my front door. The wasp kept building new nests, I saw the first few at about 6-8" long. He kept making more daily until last weekend. I've got dirt scattered all around my front foyer now.

 

[Dono]

Im confused. Do you need to pull the intake off to get the water pump off?
Sorry, Im new to the 5.0, and havn't been 'intimate' with it yet.

 

[CDW6212R]

Im confused. Do you need to pull the intake off to get the water pump off?
Sorry, Im new to the 5.0, and havn't been 'intimate' with it yet.

He is also installing an intake spacer, which goes under the upper intake.

The tough part for the WP is dealing with the fan, unbolting the fan. I had to try three different loaner tool sets to find one which included both sizes needed.

 

[willzilla]

Yeah, figured since I had it on stands I may as well do everything I can since I have my SVTf to drive I can take my time So, yeah, took the IM off for the spacer install Plus, so I can clean it real well. My EGR pipe is crimped already (deleted), wonder if I can just pull off the entire EGR setup and block it?

Thankfully, for the WP/e-fan conversion I already have the old fan and shroud off and already replaced all the pulleys and all that good stuff

 

[CDW6212R]

The mounting flange on the intake elbow for the EGR is relatively small and flat I think. You should be able to make a plate to cover that if you wanted to.

 

[willzilla]

I'd make one but no good tools to do so... Would you know what plate would work? Would an EGR block plate for a 94-95 5.0 Mustang work? Something like THIS?

 

[willzilla]

I picked up an EGR block off plate off eBay for $5 for the 94/95 5.0 Mustang... Rockauto shows the same gasket is used for the EGR for the 94-95 Mustang as the 5.0 Explorer so it should work fine

 

[CDW6212R]

That was quick hunting.

I'm leaning to not using an EGR if I fabricate intake plenums etc. If it could help gas mileage I'd want to keep one, but I have read as many people saying they lost nothing by removing it, as those who keep it.

 

[willzilla]

Yeah... My EGR pipe was cracked and then when I got the TMH's he had one that had no EGR hookup on hand or wait x amount of time for one with so I just got the one without EGR provisions and when the headers were installed they crimped the EGR pipe and left it like that. I figured, since it's all apart already, may as well completely remove it and block it off.

What would be something safe and effective to scrub down the IM? Simple green fine?

 

[CDW6212R]

Almost any cleaner you have will not hurt the original paint, short of the real carb cleaner acetone stuff. The stains will improve but there may be something left. Paint it if it needs to be super nice, but I'd wait and have Jon powdercoat one. Do the intake plaque too, Jon does great work with those.

 

[willzilla]

How much does he charge?

And intake plaque? What is that?

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know what he charges currently, when he did mine about five years ago it was less than the shipping IIRC, which was not cheap. I sent him a few items, shipped in a large Rubbermaid tub from Walmart. The weight makes shipping the real issue.

The cover piece on top is the part that corrodes due to the bare aluminum. He learned from practice how to do more than one color on those, the letters etc. Check out his powder coating thread for ideas.

Below are three pics I have saved. The first one is a cleaned and painted intake, from Eric's 302 Sport.