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2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by willzilla, June 7, 2011.


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    1. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Also... Wow, the board seems to have changed a ton over the past half year or so!

      Does the board no longer work with thread runner app? Doesn't seem to show up in Tapatalk app... Any mobile app that the site works with now? The mobile version of the page looks pretty horrible on my Android phone :-/
       
      Last edited: May 30, 2017
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    3. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good to hear, and if you get just a whiff of a coolant smell, try the powdered leak seal before doing the core.
       
    4. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Powdered leak seal??
       
    5. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      It's a well known brand, comes in a short 3" plastic "tube" standing up, Alumiseal or something like that. All parts stores will have it, maybe $6 I think. It works as well as any, and like others they don't fix big leaks. You don't want to use much anyway, it can build up and create issues if a person keeps adding more.
       
    6. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Ahhh, gotcha.. like bars leak seal and what not. Would that stuff cause issues in my pretty much brand new cooling system? Pretty much entire cooling system is new now other than the heater core lol.. and not sure if safe with the Meizre water pump?
       
    7. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Using one trusted leak seal should cause no issues for any cooling system. I've used that one powdered kind many times in various cars. Almost every time I did it right after smelling a little sweetness inside the car, and it went away with the product. Don't use anything unless you really think there is a leak in the core that you want to put off for a while.

      The only heater core I've had to replace besides my first car(high mileage and old), was my first mail car. That 86 Crown Vic I had installed double SS braided high pressure hoses onto, which would never leak. The mistake was that it would not flex or twist, so removing it pried on the heater core ends. That created a leak after about the 4th time I R&R'd those hoses. They were badass, but I'll never use those again.
       
    8. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Cool, thanks for the info ! Hoping for the best, in the event if it does turn out to be the heater core I at least found a YouTube video on the entire process on the explorer lol. I'm just really hoping it's not the timing cover of all things as I don't think I have the time and capability for that repair job lol.

      Now I'm trying to find a Optima Digital 400 12V Performance Maintainer and Battery Charger to try and recover my yellowtop as well, ugh lol.
       
    9. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Vac filled the coolant in the Xploder and jump started the truck back up (took a long time to get it up... battery needs replaced or I need an Optima charger and hope for it to recover the battery)... Truck started up and ran very well... Let it heat up fully (electric fans kicked on perfectly)... No leaks... Ran it for a good 20 minutes or so.. No leaks. Powered the truck down. The big test will be tomorrow when I heat cycle it again which is when it leaked last time :-/

       
    10. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Some additional details... Did some more work today on the Xploder (that makes 2 days in a row.. I'm on a ROLL!! Lol!!). Jumped the truck again (battery still shot but have the Optima Digital 400 12V Performance Maintainer and Battery Charger ordered and on it's way to be delivered tomorrow) and let it run for another solid 30 minutes. Kind of chirpy for the first few minutes as it warmed up and then sounded nice for the remaining 28+ minutes.

      NO LEAKS!!!!!

      I couldn't find any leaks on this second heat cycle so I'm feeling pretty positive now! I laid down some paper towel where it had leaked before and ran the car, revved it, etc, etc... Not a drop (well, other than the few drops from where I spilled a bit topping off the radiator). I will be out tomorrow and Saturday but if all still looks good Sunday I will dump the water and replace it with actual coolant.

      A quick fly around the engine compartment...



      A shot of the dual Contour electric fans after the truck reached the appropriate temperature that initiated the Delta PWM fan controller to slowly ramp the fans up until what sounded like a jet (max) and then after a bit the fan speed backed down a bit and remained steady...



      Short video taken sitting inside the truck with the front doors closed, front windows open, back windows and doors closed. The AF gauge seems to not really change oddly enough even when I rev the truck up a few times. The "boost" gauge sits steady at around 20 vac and jumps to almost 0 when I rev it (this is normal I'm assuming? lol). Truck sounds pretty nice overall I think...



      And a short video of the electric water-pump after I kill the engine... Can hear it running for a little while after powering down the truck (pretty damn loud lol)...



      I was lucky and got stung while crawling around under the truck by a wasp.. Ugh lol.

      If leak stays away after I swap water out for coolant I have a ton of cleaning to do in the engine bay and the entire truck eventually (old remains of those mud wasp nests scattered around, dirt, webs, a nest, etc). Immediate need is to tighten camber bolts if I can and get an alignment, fix my HIDs (passenger side flickers and is dead half the time.. may be wiring or just the cheap ballast/bulb took a crap finally), new rotors and pads, relocate the A/F sensor from the rear of the truck to near the front where an old unused o2 sensor bung is located (capped off currently), re-flash the Henson tune, recover or replace my YellowTop battery, clean up wiring in the engine compartment, fix my sluggish rear door lock motors (seem to move like snails and sometimes not far enough to unlock at all??), and I'm sure 10000 more things.
       
    11. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Is James Henson still doing Explorer tuning and what not? His website seems to be MIA when I checked.
       
    12. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      I found an old email chain with James and sent an email to check if he still tunes... Got an immediate auto email bounce back with the message:

      customerservice@hensonperformance.com <customerservice@hensonperformance.com>
      11:49 AM (0 minutes ago)
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      to me
      [​IMG]

      To whom it may concern:

      Our company would like to thank all our customers for many years of support. We have chosen to finalize this chapter and start with a new one. As of 16 October 2015 Henson Performance, Inc. will be closed indefinitely.

      Thank you
      James Henson
      Henson Performance, Inc.
      2055310598

      Dang :-/ Who do people use for tuning now?? Lol.

      EDIT: From searching around the board it seems that Don Lasota is the person to use now..

      :pumpkin:
       
      Last edited: June 2, 2017
    13. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I knew that James had stopped the tuning, and concentrated on his business at home. I didn't know that he shut down the website.
       
    14. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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    15. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Thank you. That is what I seemed to have found as well... Nice to still have someone reliable lol. Prices seem good as well ($150 for a tune if you have everything already). They recommend a different wideband than what I have but I think the one I have should be fine once I relocate it closer to the front of the truck as planned. A tune refresh is low on my overall plan of what I need to do anyways lol :)

      I got my "fancy" Optima battery charger in Friday while I was at work. Got home and hooked it up to the Yellow Top Optima battery that I reinstalled back into the Xploder and it came on, detected the battery (the other 2 battery charger/maintainers that I have don't even detect it at all), and it displayed "Conditioning 12v Optima Battery - 12.9 Volts DC / 1.3 Amps DC.

      I left for a family trip to Nashville Friday night (water park) and got back last night (Sat evening) and checked the charger which now says, "Maintaining 12V Optima Battery - 11.4 Volts DC / 4.0 Amps DC" and display 100% charged :) Opened the car door and my interior LED's came on and all seems well. It was dark and I'm sunburned a bit and tired so went to sleep.Unhooked the battery charger today and the car started right up still, woohoo! Lol.

      Warmed the truck up some more and noticed some chirp type sound coming from the front of the engine.. Perhaps a bad belt pulley? The sound goes away once it's warmed up but returns if I rev the engine up.. I replaced most of the pulleys a while ago so confused a bit :-/ Probably need to pull the belt off and spin each one by hand and see if that brings the sound back to a specific component or something.

      Video of the sound while warming up...



      And a video of the sound revving the truck up after being warmed up...



      Had replaced (cpl yrs ago when I had everything pulled apart) the tensioner assy, the idler pulley, and another I think (all Gates).

      Still no leaks that I can see so I "think" I'm in the clear! Though until I'm actually driving it around I won't know for sure... sure. Lol.

      Has anyone had issues embedding pictures and videos with Chrome lately? Didn't have any issues a few days ago but today it just freezes up every time so I was forced to do so with Edge... Also my previously embedded pictures that displayed fine now show as broken for all the pictures I embedded from Google pictures and my google drive :-/ Wtf.
       
      Last edited: June 4, 2017
    16. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      How old is the cam synchronizer(dist.)? That sound like those when they get old, the bushing in it will squeak, and the fix can be just a few drops of oil down under the sensor(to the shaft).
       
    17. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Thank you! Actually read that as a possible issue earlier today and just found this video...



      And that definitely sounds like what I'm hearing lol.

      I'll try to oil it this week when weather a bit better and I have some time and hope for the best. If the synchro is actually bad how hard are they to replace? Need retimed or can I just pull it out and swap? Lol.

      Thanks!
       
    18. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      It takes a little work to remove the coil packs to get down to it, plus the TB bracket etc, that have to be loose or off. It's easier to remove the belt first and double check that it's not the front pulleys etc. I did my synchro because I had a new one ready anyway, most people just oil the old one and wait for later to do a replacement.

      The synchro has to be adjusted with the simple tool, that's a two minute job at most to set it and tighten the 1/2" bolt. R&Ring the unit is tricky, exactly like any distributor. There is a decent likelihood of getting it installed off one tooth, that is very easy to do(most people do that). So if you replace the synchro, do it slow, don't be in any rush to have it done.

      The cam gear has a different number of teeth than the oil pump shaft has sides(six). It's easy to get the dist/synchro down into the cam gear fine, but the oil pump shaft not line up with the pump hole(six sides). It's a delicate thing to do, go slow and "feel" the way in. If it doesn't go easily, then you have to carefully turn the crank just a little one way or the other. Don't make big movements of the dist/crank, just a little at a time, checking to see if the synchro will go back in smoothly. That's the trick, and few people get it right every time.

      I got mine back in fairly quickly, I hadn't moved any parts much at all from when I gently lifted the old one out. I noted the orientation of how the synchro body and sensor were pointing as I removed them, and duplicated that to install the new one. That's the trick, and few people get it right every time.
       
    19. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for the info! Will go with the oil route and hope it works and works for a very long time :D lol.

      After that issue is taken care of the plan is (making a bit of a list here so I remember what I need to do lol):
      • Try and tighten up the camber bolts and eyeball align the truck good enough to limp it to a shop to get a full alignment.
      • Replace brake rotors and pads... Thinking of going with the Centric Premium Brake rotors (around $130) & Hawk HPS Performance brake pads (around $120). Same setup I have on my SVTFocus and they seem pretty good combo.
      • Troubleshoot my old HIDs... Seemed passenger side HID was flicking and then went out lol. Will redo the wiring and if that doesn't fix it will end up just putting a new HID package in to replace them all (they are old and had been having issues since before I took the car offline lol).
      • Clean up engine bay wiring (a bit crazy at the moment).
      • Massive deep cleaning of the truck inside and out (including engine bay).
      • Charge the AC and hope it's good after sitting uncharged since replacing almost all of it lol.
      • Replace cooling system water with coolant.
      • Troubleshoot slow rear door locks (sometimes they don't fully lock or unlock on key press).
      • Pull door panels off and clean out the inside... Pretty sure I have old wasp nest remains in one of them lol.
      • Replace windshield (cracked badly).
      • New front wipers (they are almost disintegrated lol).
      • I believe the wiper fluid setup isn't working from what I vaguely recall. I put a new motor in and some of the tubing but somewhat remember nothing working.
      • Relocate wideband sensor up closer to the engine for more accurate readings.
      • And more stuff I'm sure I have forgotten or will run into while trying to get the truck back on the road again LOL (to be updated as I find out what else needs done)...
      :D
       
    20. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I just ordered pads for my truck, not wanting to just swap used parts into it for work use. I got the best EBC pads they have now, series 7000/6000 front and back, from AutoZone it was about $145 plus tax, they had a 20% off deal.

      BTW, I got a good look at the stock rear rotors versus the three later OEM 11.6" rotors, of the Cobra, 2011 Ranger, and 03-10 Crown Vics. I wasn't very impressed, the diameter is only about 3/8" different. I like the vented rotor, and that will be good enough for the rear of my 99 mail truck(what I bought them for). I'll chronicle how they go on, but it isn't something I'd recommend as a big upgrade.
       
    21. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Do the bigger rotors (though not much bigger) simply install without modification or is something special need be done to put them on compared to the stock size ones?

      I have PowerSlot cross drilled and slotted rotors on now but after years of sitting they look like PowerRust haha.
       
    22. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      They all do require the matching backing plate etc, which has the parking brake parts on it, and the parking cables most likely. I was needing new brakes anyway, and another thread about the Ranger 2011 brakes made me dig out the old parts, and buy the new rotors/pads.

      It's not worth it unless you had a special need like my work truck, or much heavier wheels/tires etc. I'll probably put them on my 91 Lincoln also, given those rear calipers are prone to sticking/binding, and kind of rare.

      You mention rusty looking, my mail truck in my garage hasn't been driven in over five years. But the rear calipers were used once from the last brake job, and those are cryogenically treated. They look like rusty hell now, but I'll take them and have them turned to reuse on my Mercury next.

      With all the changes we make, you need to keep a good records book of non stock parts, fro future maintenance.
       
    23. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Yeah... I'll be sticking with stock brakes :D If it was a simple swap the rotors and you gold then maybe, but.. I just want to get the truck on the road and I won't be auto-x'ing it so the stock size works for me lol. I do plan to put in some fresh fluid though!

      I have mostly been tracking my modifications/changes in this thread but probably should do a full spreadsheet with dates the work was done to keep everything consolidated and easier to track!
       
    24. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      New brake fluid is a great idea anytime, smart.
       
    25. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Got some more work done on the truck... Pulled the camshaft position sensor and it looked flat inside (no raised piece like what I saw in a youtube video for oiling the camshaft synchro)... What mine is looks like:
      [​IMG]

      And what it looked like in the video:

      [​IMG]

      Perhaps this was changed between years or something. Both show under my truck and engine for 2000 on Rockauto.

      Dropped a little but of some oil into the gears or whatever and replaced the sensor and... Noise is still there. This only took a few minutes but was not the issue sadly.

      Pulled the belt off and started the truck up and... No noise (even when I rev the truck)... So.. It seems it is something spun by the belt.. Sound is from the right side (facing the truck with drivers side to my right).

      Maybe a/c compressor or power steering pulley?
       
    26. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Well you are narrowing it down. Try the AC clutch bearing, spin them all by hand without the belt again, and see what feels odd. I hope it's not the PS pump, that's not a cheap replacement item.
       

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