Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by willzilla, June 7, 2011.
That sounds easy, ... if you have a ladder.
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Ok... Tightened up the WP bolts some more today before it started to rain... Pulled vac on the coolant system again and it SEEMS like the leak is gone, woohoo. Filled the coolant system again with another bottle of coolant flush and distilled water, ran it until it warmed up (fans kicked on perfectly again), turned on heater and ran it full blast another 15 minutes. Dark out now so will drain system again tomorrow after work and replace with JUST distilled water and run it again another 20-30 minutes. Cool it down, drain, and then check for leaks again, and finally fill with some water wetter and coolant.
Minor issue tonight after I shut the truck off.. Damn hood latch is not popping the hood lol. Found this video on how to open it:
Will give that a whirl and then hopefully just need to clean and lube up the mechanism to get it working again tomorrow lol.
Cool, I didn't know that you could get at the mechanism from outside. I usually just slap the hood when one gets stuck. My neighbors van was doing that, plus the inside handle had been ripped off(from pulling too hard). It's another latch that needs lubricating every ten years or so.
I've got a mild clunk in my wiper mechanism today, I think I ought to replace those linkage parts.
I was able to get the hood open using a screwdriver as indicated in the video. The cable is stretched and will need to be replaced but in the meantime I pulled the cable out about a half inch from the latch mechanism and put a zip tie in there to add some pull to it so the latch kind of works and I can open the hood with the in-cab latch but then have to kind of push a bit of cable back into place each time lol.
Drained the flushed coolant out and added just pure distilled water and heat cycled it. All seems to be going well.
Worked on the wife's van. Thankfully I can reach the blower motor and blower motor control module from within the engine compartment. Replaced both AND soldered in a new connector cable and... A/C works! BUT... Low and high settings barely a trickle of air comes out of the vents and the second from lowest and medium both feel like medium and that's it.. Lol, wtf??? :-/ So.. Went from zero A/C to the 2 mid settings both being medium and zero low and high. Rear A/C still works perfect. Hmmm. Got dark out and will have to investigate more tomorrow.
Did you get a look at the blower fan and all ducting there? Those are often filled with debris. My truck needed the motor, and the fan wasn't bad, just dirty. But I had lots of pine needles and other small objects at the bottom of the AC evaporator, blocking about 1/3 of it. My airflow wasn't good when I got the truck, and the motor was just going out.
Surprisingly the ducts looked quite clean and debris free.
I replaced the blower motor and the wheel fan that it is attached to (bought as a combo unit) and also replaced the blower motor control module.
I checked the voltage going into the motor and it shows 14v which sounds correct to me (it wasn't zero lol) but I'm unsure if this is supposed to change based on the setting (low, med/low, med/high, high/max) but it was constant 14v when fans are on and 0v when off.
I double checked the blower motor control module connector and it looks good (was worried maybe I pushed a pin or something).
It's weird... LOW is just about no air flow, med/low and med/high has decent air flow (the same amount for both setting), and high/max has no air flow.
I'm thinking the blower control switch may be bad.
Back on the Xploder I did some more brake testing and it seems I was incorrect... rear driver side brake caliper is STILL leaking and it appears it's the drain valve area that is leaking now. Wtf. Tried to tighten it up and that changed nothing. Blah :-/
The bleed screw is leaking? That's odd and usually only very old corroded ones will do that. You changed the calipers didn't you, I forgot? I did mine and might be confusing your truck with it.
Yeah. All new calipers. All new rotors. All new pads. All new bleeder valve screws (they came with the calipers).
Use a socket to initially break loose bleed screws, and to put the final tightening on them. Wrenches don't often fit as well as a socket. It hopefully just needs to be a little tighter.
I'll pull the screw completely off and torque it back on and see if that changes anything. I got it tightened down really well and was worried I'd mess up the caliper. I sent an email to PowerStop and it sounds like they are mailing me a replacement bleeder valve as well.
That sounds good, those are small parts that I cringe when I tighten them.
Got some more work done today on the Xploder after work
I took the caliper bleeder valve bolt completely off, wiped it down (threads all looked good), re-installed it, bled it (was fine but wanted to be safe), and torqued it down with a socket (used a wrench before) and just went all in to tighten it down.... Leak appears to be gone!
Drained the distilled water and put in coolant. Heat cycled the truck and sprayed down the throttle cable spring on the side and the long one on the cable and the sticky throttle issue seems to have been resolved.
The brake pedal seems a bit noisy and semi-mushy but truck seems to brake nicely.. Drove the truck around the block (alignment still needs done so just a quick 1 minute jaunt) and the truck brakes nicely but the pedal feel is "meh". Perhaps I'm spoiled with braking with my SVT Focus which brakes on a dime with a solid pedal? Will bleed the other 3 calipers once more to be sure though to guarantee no air in the system.
Quick drive video:
Couple quick engine revs and a partial walk-around of the front of the truck after I shut the engine off. Can really hear the dual contour fans sucking air like mad and then winding down... The water pump can also be heard quite loud spinning down as well. Kind of cool sounding with the both of them lol...
Ordered a new hood latch cable (comes with the interior latch pull though it's black and does not match the interior, may be able to swap in the original one to the new cable, not sure).
My wife is going to get the truck registration renewed (it's a FEW years expired lol) tomorrow and hopefully, as time allows, I will get the alignment done this weekend
No progress this weekend... Well... Very little progress, lol. Finally got the truck registration renewed haha. Had to place an 18 sticker over the 15 so it's been a while.
Received my new hood latch cable and realized the old latch is also black so it's pretty much identical in every way. Hopefully will drain coolant once more and put water wetter and coolant mix in and replace the hood latch cable in the next few days.
Tried to get an alignment done Saturday but when I arrived at the shop they couldn't fit me in. Maybe tomorrow. I did limp it over to the car wash and washed the truck for the first time in... forever. Has been so long even had to clean off algae or mold or whatever the green stuff was. Turned out pretty decent for just a spray wash in a car wash bay. The truck drove very well to/from the shop and car wash other than the alignment shudder. Throttle still a little sticky. Brakes felt good. Temps stayed really good the entire time.
Have some odds and ends to finish up still...
- Def need to address the peeling clear coat on the fenders and front bumper.
- Touch-up paint on the few paint dings and spots around the truck.
- Have some fading on rear window trim.
- Need to order the front windshield vent.
- Need to replace the front windshield (still cracked pretty badly).
- Engine bay needs serious deep cleaning.
- Pull all door panels and clean and inspect door locks and windows. Check for old wasp nests lol.
- Pull the roof rack and either re-paint it, remove to for good, or ??
Congratulations! Your in to the small stuff. I'm not sure about pulling the roof rack rails off. I think it might be more of a problem getting them off than masking the whole area really good and painting them on the truck.
Mine are faded and peeled also. I'm faced with the same issue as you. I'm pretty sure I would end up stripping the screws holding my rails on.
Very good, and the pressure washer is great for that mold etc. Check the door jambs for wasp nests, that's the worst spot to find one unexpectedly.
I found a 2 1/2" nail in my front tire finally, I've been adding air daily and wondering why the leak was getting worse. I had looked many times, and thought it was from my one tire plug(in that tire). I looked this time using my purple power tire cleaner, it bubbled a lot when I hit the spot. It was a nail with no head on it, just a tiny speck of silver showing. I dug it out and plugged it 30 minutes ago. Now I shouldn't have to add air any more, that was getting old. Night,
Yeah.. the middle rails look like a huge pain and seem to be riveted down.. I won't mess with those. The longer side rails held down by the screws seem doable and less of a pain to pull off to sand and paint maybe.
I've been picking wasp nests off the truck for years now, lol. Hit a nest with wasp spray a few days ago in the opening at the end of the foot step piece and blasted it out with the power wash yesterday. Had a number of nests that I had killed in the door jambs over the years though, always a welcome opening the doors!
Nice find on the tire. My wife's van had something similar a few years ago that I had plugged though it was a small piece of hollow metal tubing that was stuck in the tire that took a good 30 min of yanking to finally get the thing out (was hooked inside of the tire).
Ok... some more FAILURE ugh.
Attempted to get truck aligned and once again it was a no go.
It seems somehow driving the truck twice (first time I got turned back because they couldn't fit me in, second time I dropped the truck off fine) to the alignment shop (and car wash a block from the shop) has resulted in my upper control arm boots tearing... UGH.
Also... It seems my camber bolts are installed backwards... lol. Does anyone have a picture of the direction of the camber bolts? Thought I had them installed as per the manual but maybe over the years they got derp'd up.
And to top it off my torsion bolts in the back are missing somehow... No clue where I will find those :-/
Out $20 for the inspection and no alignment now lol.
It never ends...
Though, I wonder if I can just install new BOOTS instead of entire new upper control arms maybe? Not like I've put miles on the truck with bad boots or anything (maybe 5 miles TOTAL) so perhaps just the boots can be swapped?
The boots can be had separately, but it's rare to see any.
I have some ES tie rod boots, urethane for when you might need to force one apart but the TRE is still good. I don't know where to find the BJ boots immediately, begin looking tough, they're out there.
The camber washers I've used come with a little picture, they do go in opposite of what seems natural.
I sent Moog an email, maybe they can give me some details, or at least measurements so I can order a universal boot perhaps.
Googling around it looks like the camber bolts are supposed to go bolt head on the inside and nut on the outside, does that sound correct?
Just glancing at old photos (dark outside right now and about to hit the bed) it seems I put the right camber bolt with the screw head on the outside and nut on the inside (not sure about the other bolt, probably the same).. Blah.
Need to find my torsion bolts as well, no clue where I could find replacements. Googling around seemed iffy on replacements.
The torsion bolts you can do best from a JY.
I bought a pair of shorter ones once, but they had no rounded tip which is needed.
Moog will not help any customers, I learned that from a BJ I had installed, and the boot was the wrong size. They do not service their products at all, they only deal with their vendors. I had to cheat and buy another pair, to "get" the one boot I needed, and return those.
Is there anything left of your two boots? I have a pair of UCA's new for my work truck to put in. I can find them and measure the boots if needed.
I have not yet been able to jack the truck up and pull the wheels to take a look... Just going off of what they said in my alignment "inspection" lol.
I'm hoping my torsion bolts are still laying around my garage somewhere and I just forgot to toss them back on or something, though could of sworn I had.
Have been under the weather for a few days now and haven't had a chance to pull the wheel(s) off yet to check out the upper control arms.
Hopefully I'll be feeling a little better and can take a look soon.
Plan to take some measurements and then order up replacement boots and try to clean up the ball joint as best as I can and install new boots while hoping they were not contaminated to bad in the couple total miles put on the truck lol.
Rockauto has very cheap upper ball joints without the arm. Like 5 bux gets you a new boot.
Or, possibly use a tie rod boot?
Yeah... I am/was considering just the ball joints but figure I will delve into the boot issue first when I'm feeling better and see if the ball joints are still ok and perhaps the boots slipped off or something dumb happened and maybe new boots (or cleaning and re-installing them) is a cheaper option.
Thank you for the link... Are those boots the correct size? I will measure the ball joint when I get a chance to be safe.