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2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by willzilla, June 7, 2011.


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    1. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Felt good enough to pull the wheel and yank the upper control arm on the driver's side... Looks like simply from sitting for the past 4 years (and a few months lol) or so the dust boots on the MOOG upper control arm ball joints has dry rotted badly. Wow.

      Is there a way to prevent the rubber from falling apart in only a few yrs? Does driving it and re-pumping grease in every year help maintain longevity of these things?

      Here's how it looked when I dropped the knuckle...

      [​IMG]

      Much worse than I was anticipating lol :-/

      Here is what they looked like when I installed them back in May 2013 (LOL)... I greased them up with AMSOIL Synthetic Poly Truck Grease #2 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ic-truck-chassis-and-equipment-grease-nlgi-2/) grease until slight swell AFTER installing them (maybe I should of greased prior to installing onto the truck?)...

      [​IMG]

      This is how they looked when I did my brakes a few weeks or so ago (pulled an old picture).. And they look shot (and I didn't notice or realize it) so it appears they were bad from sitting not from the couple miles of driving...

      [​IMG]

      And this is the entire control arm off the truck... Shot all the hell :-/...

      [​IMG]
       
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    3. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      That seems wrong to have the rubber fall apart from a few years of non use.

      I noticed one of mine of my Mercury is torn similar to that. Mine are probably ten years old though(all four new then), with a good 50k on them I guess. I've considered replacing the uppers again, which run about $60 each.
       
    4. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Yeah.. 4 years of sitting... And the rubber completely disintegrated.. these are supposed to be the quality MOOG upper control arms and ball joints too (K part number not the R).
       
    5. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Is the ball joint possibly able to be wiped clean (pump a bunch of grease through it and wipe it up as it pours out to flush contaminates), check if it's still good (if it's semi-hard to move it's good? My old OEM ball joints were shot and just flopped around lol. If this is possible I could then possibly just install new boots once cleaned?
       
    6. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Yes, if you've barely driven it like said, sure, the BJ's are fine, and pumping some grease through them will push out any little stuff you can't wipe away.
       
    7. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Got some more work done on the Xploder. Noticed more coolant had leaked out. Realized I never re-torqued my bottom water-pump bolt. Got a couple good turns on it to tighten it up. Checked for leaks. Gone. Drained coolant for the hopefully last time (still a partial mix of distilled water, rad flush, and 50/50 coolant), added 3 more bottles of 50/50 coolant and water wetter and ran the truck for a good 30 minutes. No leaks (for now lol).

      Cleaned up the driver side ball joint and the ball joint feels solid. Pushed some grease through it and moved it around and cleaned up the grease again.

      Ordered 2 sets of energy suspension dust boots (in red) of slightly different sizes to hopefully assure a good fit.

      Measurements of the MOOG ball joint was:

      1.9" base diameter, 0.8" pin diamter, and about 1" pin height (to the pin lip that the MOOG pin has.. the bellows rubber boots go past this and crush down past it but the energy suspension boots are not bellows so only measured up to the pin lip).

      Ordered both:

      Front Ball Joint Dust Boots Part Number: 9.13130

      Tie Rod Dust Boots Part Number: 9.13119

      Time will tell, lol.
       
    8. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I like the choices, hopefully those will work.
       
    9. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Sadly both sets of poly boots were a fail on the Moog ball joint. Was able to get one on and bolted the ball joint back into the knuckle nice and tight and drop the lower control arm back down and the boot lip would slip off. Other set was even worse. UGH.

      Also was down a little coolant since last heat cycle... No coolant stains anywhere so no idea what is up with that.

      Ending up ordering replacement Moog ball joints (MOOG K80012) from Summit.. Another $70 flushed lol.
       
    10. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Dont worry about the loss of coolant yet. that's going to happen for a little while as pockets of air work out.
      I had the same fears you are having, but after a few top up's the coolant level stabilized.
       
    11. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Yes, get the good coolant mix in there, and then keep an eye on things.

      I have a weeping on mine right at the vent hose next to the cap, or else a tiny crack right at that nipple. I'm losing a handful maybe each day, bothersome but I haven't found my tiny hose clamps yet. I have two new radiators, so I'm holding out til my other truck is going.
       
    12. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Yeah... I topped off the coolant and am keeping an eye on it. Always have a leak worry with my history of coolant leaks lol. Didn't see any coolant stains under the car so that was a plus. Will check again this weekend and add more as needed and keep checking.

      Hopefully the new MOOG ball joints show up by this weekend so I can swap them out. Was going to order a different brand but was worried about another brand not fitting into the MOOG upper control arms right. From photos (not sure if they are accurate) it looks like the ball joint boots had been changed possibly, perhaps for the better.
       
    13. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Another rainy day... Yesterday I was able to finally fix my wife's A/C in our 2010 e-350... Turns out it was the front blower motor control switch (in the climate control module). Yay :D

      Had some time today and was able to replace the ball joint in the driver side upper control arm. Ended up trying to kill a snake in the garage (or at least get it out of the garage) for 3+ hours and did not get to actually reinstalling the upper control arm or replacing the ball joint in the passenger upper control arm. Ugh.

      [​IMG]
       
    14. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Very good, so those Moog UCA's do take the replacement BJ? I think that's the way to go for an arm with lesser miles than the boots last. What were the part numbers for those, and where'd they come from?
       

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    15. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Yes... The MOOG upper control arms that I have (unsure about the R series) take the MOOG ball joints. When I read the MOOG data sheet on the upper control arm it had the ball joint part marked so assumed I could swap it out as it's a part they sell.

      For the upper control arms I purchased them from Amazon March 11 2013 (lol.. sad)... The part details:

      Moog K8708T Control Arm with Ball Joint
      Moog K80068 Front Upper Control Arm and Ball Joint

      It appears sometime over the past few years MOOG changed up the part numbers a bit (maybe tweaked the arms, not sure.. Added a letter C before the part numbers)...

      MOOG CK8708T Problem Solver; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint
      MOOG CK80068 Problem Solver; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint

      The MOOG ball joints I purchased from Summit Racing (though they appears on Rockauto when you search by part, but don't seem to show up when viewing under Explorer)...

      Moog Ball Joints K80012

      All photos of the ball joint show it with a blue boot... Mine came with the same black boot that it had when I got the upper control arms with the ball joint already pressed in (wish I could get one with a red boot lol) :D
       
    16. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Thanks, I got my UCA's installed in my Mercury in about 2008, but they have maybe 30k miles on them. The bushings are probably fine still, and doing just the BJ's would be good for that truck. I think there were only one choice back then, besides the two piece contraption. I have those new parts now, for my 99 truck.
       
    17. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Pulled the passenger side upper control arm and swapped the ball joint on it as well. Tried to install driver side upper control arm and am at a loss on how the heck the camber bolts on the right side can physically go in from left to right???? There are 2 small metal tubes that I can work around but also a bigger metal tubes that does not budge and the bolt head clanks into it not allowing a direct shot to install the bolt. Is there some trick to this or a way to move the tube out of the way??
       
    18. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      There are small clamps around there that hold those tight on the frame. Sometimes you don't have to remove a clamp, often you do. My last two have been not bad, the first one I did have to move those tubes. The big one is the emissions going back to the charcoal canister(fuel vapors).
       
    19. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Yeah.. I saw the ones holding the 2 small tubes and those don't seem a problem. The big metal tube... Didn't see what holds that in place and couldn't figure out how to move it at all.
       
    20. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      It was around 2004 when I did my Mercury, it's fuzzy to recall. I think there was a large self tapping bolt holding a clamp on, with maybe a 10mm bolt head. I'd have to look again to see. Something can be done to get it moved a little.
       
    21. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Hmm.. I'll delve into it again today or this weekend and maybe have better luck. Hard to see much and didn't see anything any clamps near the camber bolt but maybe forward or aft I'll have better luck.
       
    22. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Took it easy this weekend and today... Had to grade finals and catch up on some other work.

      I got my passenger side upper control arm installed... Went smoothly. Much less of a pain compared to the drivers side which I still haven't got bolted up yet. Will delve into that this week and hopefully figure something out. Need to rent or borrow a torque wrench to tighten everything down, I believe I read 100lbs but will need to double check. Still need to find my torsion bolts as well.
       
    23. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Ordered new Moog camber bolts and cams to replace my identical Moog camber bolts and cam set... Old ones were warped from when I wasn't sure what I was doing 4 years ago and hulk crushed the cams :-/

      [​IMG]



      I found my torsion bolts FINALLY and installed them... Just did 10 turns for each for now.

      Got the new camber bolts installed bolt head on the inside like they should. Didn't tighten them all the way and dropped the truck down to pre-load. Will tighten the rest of the way once the suspension settles.

      Need to rent a torque wrench so I can tighten everything to spec (alignment shop mentioned my camber bolts were loose when I took truck up for alignment attempt a few weeks ago and I don't want a repeat of that).
       
    24. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I browsed for UCA's, the BJ, and just boots again. I found about three boots that could fit, but none give any dimensions of the two holes. That's poor descriptions, and the reviews were no help, only a few mentioned the application. I'll try to replace my boots, given the maybe $15 savings to replace the BJ's only. The arms are in the high $40's, and boots run under $10 a pair. I might have to buy all of them and see which will work.
       
    25. willzilla

      willzilla Elite Explorer

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      Finally got some more time to work on the truck..

      Rented a torque wrench from advanced auto.. Pre-loaded the BJs... Torqued down the camber bolts.

      Driver side and passenger side are about half an inch difference in height. Couldn't really line it up messing with the torsion bolts as it felt like adjusting one bolt changed height of both sides to some degree and I do not have one of those torsion tension clamp things.

      Is there a specific method to level the front end without any special tools?
       
    26. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      The alignment shop can adjust those if you mention it to them. I like to go in with the height where I want it, and tell them to adjust it if they have to(they had to raise it the last time to get a good alignment).

      Measure the height on both sides, from the ground up to the LCA front mounting bolt. Make those equal, and then the handling will be equal for left and right turns. The fenders will always be off some from where the suspension needs to be. I'll be trying to move my fenders or body mounts when I get to doing my good truck.
       

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