2002 Explorer V6 4.0 Engine Seized Up

[MoonRocky]

Thanks for the info.

The reason I was wondering is that the GUY at the parts store asked for a number on the engine so that he can quote me a correct replacement long block. I am not sure what or where that number is.

 

[not8taxi]

so im guessing the motor is still good then? if so that sounds great

 

[2000StreetRod]

VIN location

Thanks for the info.

The reason I was wondering is that the GUY at the parts store asked for a number on the engine so that he can quote me a correct replacement long block. I am not sure what or where that number is.

The last 8 digits of the VIN should be stamped on the rear of the block on the left side. You probably won't be able to see it until you pull the engine.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Glad you found your problem. Subscribing.

 

[jakedrew]

interesting. so what you going to do now? Replace the timing parts and put it back together?

 

[MoonRocky]

What to do next?

With the jammed pieces removed the next thing is to rotate the crank and see if it will move. Are there other pieces that I didn't detect? The one little piece I found was sitting on the top of the head when I took the valve cover off. Could other pieces be in the oil pan?

I am not sure if replacing the chain guide is possible in the engine installed position? Also if this chain guide is busted, what about the back? Or can I detect any other damage. I am full of questions.

How can I rotate the engine? No crank bolt. Also the plugs have been out for quite a while. Could the cylinders be lightlty rusted or seized up from moisture? What would be the suggestions about that?
Can I purchase just the busted parts?

Thanks Again To All Here At EXPLORERFOURM.COM

What do you think?

 

[waskly]

my guess is when the guild broke, timing moved. that piece of plastic is not strong enough to lock up a motor.

 

[D Hook]

Interesting. Subscribing.

 

[2000StreetRod]

check the timing

As I stated in an earlier post I suspect that the timing may still be correct. I missed your post yesterday showing the internals with the timing cover removed. I suggest picking out the pieces and then checking the timing.

Since the spark plugs are removed there will be no compression and less resistance to rotation. You may want to spray a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders before attempting rotation. You should be able to rotate the engine with the left (driver side) camshaft sprocket retaining bolt since it tightens clockwise. You will have to overcome the valve spring pressure. If you have not loosened or removed the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt or either camshaft retaining bolt then the timing before seizure remains the same. With the front cover and balancer removed you have no reference for TDC. However, you can still check for timing chain slip by comparing the left and right camshaft positions. With the camshaft position sensor "nub" on the left camshaft above the axis of the camshaft as shown below,

rotate the camshaft clockwise until the timing slot is below the axis of the camshaft and is parallel to the head surface that mates with the valve cover as shown below.

Then check the position of the timing slot on the right camshaft. It should be in the same position if the timing is correct.

 

[my1zamboni]

I agree....very interesting and informative.
Subcribing to follow along

 

[MoonRocky]

Thank You.

I am on my way out to the Shade Tree with a bunch of stuff to do. "I feel like I am not alone in this endeavor. The guidance is very much at my speed of understanding. Thank you for that.

Will post again today? Stay tuned.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pieces

It is very possible there will be pieces of the guides in the oil pan and stuck in the oil pickup tube screen. When my rear guide broke I saved all of the pieces and reassembled them to see how many were missing. From that I knew that at least one was missing so I kept searching until I found it in the oil pickup screen.

The left and right guide assemblies can no longer be purchased individually. You have to purchase the entire cassette that includes guide assembly, timing chain and sprockets.

I see from the photos that you have the old style primary tensioner. Even if it happens to still be good I suggest that you replace it. The new one has six leaf springs instead of three and a much stronger base. Mine looked intact but when I examined it closely I realized that it was not exerting any tension on the chain.

You never posted any photos of the top sections of the left and right guides. Hopefully, your right guide is still intact, the timing has not slipped, and there is no mechanical damage to the engine. I have helped another forum member successfully replace the left guide assembly without using the OTC-6488 tool set. I will be glad to help you. Just don't loosen any camshaft or jackshaft retaining bolts at this point.

 

[MoonRocky]

Pictures of the top and cam.

Here are the pictures I have of the various top and cam pictures.

The cam pictures:

Rear Passenger Side:

Front Drivers Side:

I have bigger pictures if needed.




I started the day with a few things on my mind. Was the engine going to spin? With the 1/2 inch setup up I used to take the crank bolt out, spinning the cam bolt made a lot of sense. But it didn't move the crank at all. the cam and the jack sprocket moved ever so little. Even the back chain sprocket moved a bit. Like just a 1/4 inch. Which makes me believe that top chains and sprockets are not froze.

How much torx can that cam bolt withstand? Will I strip it? I stopped at that point. I am afraid of stripping the cam shaft nut.

I took some time off to ponder these questions.

What about the starter?
No battery
The fuel pump might pump

 

[2000StreetRod]

camshaft retaining bolt

The camshaft retainig bolt is torqued to 63 ft-lbs during normal camshaft timing. Since the camshaft rotates one revolution for each two crankshaft revolutions only the equivalent of 31.5 ft-lbs is being applied at the crankshaft. However, this should be ample force to rotate the crankshaft with the spark plugs removed. How long has it been since the engine last ran?

Thanks for posting the photos looking down on the cassettes. Fortunately, the right (rear) guide assembly looks intact. Frequently the guide splits where the upper positioning bolt is. I suggest that you try to pull the end of the guide (on each side of the positioning bolt) upward with your fingers to make sure there is almost no vertical movement. Sometimes the guide will fail near the bottom allowing it to move vertically.

The left guide assembly also looks intact in the area of the tensioner (slack side). The photos don't show the outboard (traction) side. It appears from the photos of the primary internals that the "finger" of the left guide is what was jammed against the jackshaft sprocket. It is probably the piece on the upper right in the photo below.

Going back to your original post you stated that the engine seized during a morning cold start attempt. I think that's better than if the engine was actually running. There is less chance of mechanical damage. However, I am concerned that you have removed the pieces and the engine will not easily rotate. The rings could be rusted to the cylinder walls if it has been long enough for that to happen. Or the chain could have slipped and a piston could have bent a valve. Since you can't easily rotate the engine try measuring the angle of the timing slot relative to the head for both camshafts. The photo of the right timing slot indicates about 40 degrees. The left will be hard to see since it is up against the firewall.

Another thing to check is the position of the rocker arms. Infrequently one has been found laying on its side or completely separated from the valve train.

Make sure there are no plastic pieces wedged between the chain and the jackshaft and crankshaft sprockets.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Possible piece

In the third photo of Post #20 it appears there is a guide piece on top of the left chain and sprocket behind the jackshaft sprocket. Below is a photo by CDW6212R of what is behind the jackshaft sprocket for comparison.

I may just be seeing the end of the guide in its normal position but it doesn't look quite the same.

 

[jokeme]

Nice info...

 

[MoonRocky]

Angle Pictures

This engine has been in the front of my house without the plugs since at least May. There is no movement on any other guides. All 12 of the rocker arms seem to be in the correct position.

Here are the tools I used to get some angle measurements.

Tools In Use.

The results:

Both angles were the same.

The back of the drivers side cam pictures were not any good.

What about the starter for trying to turn engine around? It is still installed.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

What about the starter? Before you try and turn the engine any more I would most definitely be sure to spray some penetrating oil in every cylinder and try ad spray it all the way around the cylinder for sure.

Can you not just re-insert the harmonic balancer bolt into the crank shaft until it bottoms out, and then turn that with a long breaker bar? I would do that after letting some penetrating oil sit in the cylinders for at least an hour.

It looks like your timing is still correct.

Good luck.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Angle clarification

Since the camshafts rotate in the same direction, if the right camshaft slot (front) looks like below:

then the left camshaft slot (rear) should look like below:

The angle looks to me to be about 40 degrees. 89 degrees would be almost perpendicular to the head surface.

I suspect that your piston rings have rusted to the cylinder walls. I agree with Hitchhikingmike that you should spray some penetrating oil into each spark plug opening. I suggest twice a day for two days. Do not try to use the starter motor. You could damage the rings or pistons. After two days install a socket on the left camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and alternately apply a clockwise and counter-clockwise torque. Do not exceed 50 ft-lbs in the counter-clockwise direction. You don't want the bolt to loosen because you'll lose the timing. Once the pistons move a little their range of motion will rapidly increase.

I inherited a 50 Willys station wagon from my dad when my parents moved. It had set in an unused section of my dad's shop for years. Every day after class I rocked the vehicle back and forth in gear. After a week of spraying and rocking the rings came loose from the cylinders. I drove the Willys for 3 years in college with no problems and no additional work on the engine.

 

[MoonRocky]

Back to school on geometry I go.. 40 degrees is much more likely.

Corrected Angle Photo

Thank You. Excuse my poor math skills.

I am going to stop by the store and grab some Penetration Oil. The one that has the little red straw. Over the years, mine has gotten separated from the can. The two or more soak days is on the schedule. I wont even try turning it till later in the week.