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2002 Transmission question

Charlie Leblanc

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September 14, 2017
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City, State
Kingsport
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 exp 4x4 XLT
Hi all!
New to this forum but not new to forums.
I have an interesting question I would like to see if someone could answer for me.
I am replacing the 5R55S trans with a reman.
I cannot get the torque converter to go far enough forward so that I can put the nuts on the flexplate to converter studs. Each one only goes thru far enough that the threading of the stud is almost there. But the nuts will not grab the stud.
The original trans had a inspection hole to take care of this. The new reman does not.
Can I use this trans? Or do I need to get one with the inspection hole present to solve my mating problem?
Or does someone have a way to pull TC forward that 1/16th or so farther forward so that I can set the converter in properly?
I have been trying to find solution so that I don't have to pull trans again.
And before anyone asks this is what I have done so far to make sure it's not me being a big dummy and have goofed up something in the install.

So far I have verified this is the right converter the shafts are identical in with(I measured) I cleaned and lightly sanded the flexplate thru holes I lubricated studs and holes. To make it easier in the install. I reset the dowel pins. Trans is set flush to engine block. The engine and converter will spin as it should. Each stud is pushed thru about the same from visual inspection. I didn't measure cause it's really hard to thru the starter hole and front diff gets in the way of everything!

I'm really hoping to not have to remove the trans and start again, but I think that might be where I'm at.

So any help with this will be greatly appreciated if you have a solution to my problem!!
It seems to me somebody somewhere has had this problem before me!!
Thanks
Charlie
 



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Is there not room working through the starter hole?
 












Is there not room working through the starter hole?
Thanks for the reply for some reason I can't see what I'm typing so please excuse any oops. So far I cannot get the converter to wiggle forward enough to g a nut on the shaft. It seems like it should but the front diff is a bit of a hindrance to this. I made a rough version of a pry bar to try and push it forward but so far no go is thehrhe a tool made for this? If so please tell about it. If not does someone have a trick that will work?
I need to get her back on the road. It's my daughter's vehicle and she is away at school. h
 






Well folks I have figured out the answer. To y question.n. It took a big case of F.I. to get the torque converter to .move forward by wedging something into the bell housing and pulling it forward at each stud it finally came forward enough to grab the tread on one of the studs. Then I rotated the flywheel 180 degrees and pulled that side forward enough to grab the threads. I used the same method of wedging my homemade pry bar between the converter and the bell housing. I bically said it's gonna go or break something. I slowly tightened the bolts on the sides by hand as evenly as I could to push the converter forward two threads. Once I had two nuts grabbing the threads I could slowly pull the converter up to sit flush against the flex plate. Then put the other two on and set the torque to specs. Took about 3 hours to get this done. Moral of the story the new trans hould have had the inspection hole there to do this with. Thanks for reading. Hope it helps someone else who gets the 5R55S trans and this problem rears its ugly head.
Thanks
Charlie
 






Did not have this problem when I replaced the torque converter on my '02 4.0 SOHC while the engine was out for timing chain replacement. Pushed the T.C. on the intermediate shaft until it just started rubbing the back of the bell housing. Install engine; line up flex plate; pull t.c. forward slightly (no more rubbing on back of bell housing); bolt 'er up nice and tight, and good to go. I never thought of pulling the plug out of the inspection hole (which I always thought was a drain hole access for the t.c., though neither the old or new t.c. on my truck had a drain plug).

I wonder if the problem was a non-OEM replacement torque converter on your new trans? Where'd you get it? How much $$$? How is it running?
 






Well drew, it was a non stock torque converter I made them send me a new stck one because of the problem. It did the same thing with both converters. Now I am finishing up the install of all the parts that I had to take off to get the tranny out. This vehicle is fighting me at every turn. Example one bolt on the transfer case ook me 3 hrs to put in. Why? I have no idea. I had to remove one and put it in that spot. Silly things like that have slowed this install to a crawl.

It was a used vehicle when I bought it and I am also fixing bad fixes that I find along the way a. An example is the fuel filter someone used wire ties to install it to the bracket it lives on I toook the time to find the nuts and washers to put it on correctly. Overall the truck was in good shape but some backyard ingenuity was used to fix something's that were easy fixes but take some time to do them properly.
I just found the stablizer bar link broken so I got the parts to fix this and while I was under there I also found that the oil pan gasket is seeping. I ordered the gasket to replace. This had been leaking for a while so cleaning up the mess takes some time. I hope to have it running in a few days but I still have to refill the radiator and install the trans cooler lines. I replaced the trans cooler as well so I have all that to put together as well.

This is my truck but my daughter is driving it while she is away at school. So I only get short bursts to work on it. I loaned her another vehicle while I fix the ever growing list of repairs that I find on the truck. I am going thru the maintenance schedule and pertorming as many of them as I can get to.

The truck has 268000 miles on her and is in really good shape for her age and milage. Engine runs well I went through that last summer and replaced the intake gaskets and cleaned and repaired all that was needed. A good tune up and general marntenancewas done the. I also replaced control arms brakes, rotors, calipers etc last year. No oil usage in the motor and my daughter said she was getting about 21 mpg on the highway. She said in town she was getting close to 16 mpg in town. So the work is showing its results.

I got the trans thru orellys and they have been very good with any problems. I'm dealing with the manufacturer or rather the reman directly. They too have been good with problems. Dynamic trans I think the name is. He too is waiting for me to call and tell him that it is running.
Good question tho it's the same one I asked the factory a few days earlier. The real problem was no inspection port to install the converter with. So important note to this if you order a reman make sure if you had a inspection port make sure the replacement has one!
Thanks for the reply and hopefully I wasn't too long winded but without some of the info it doesn't make sense.
I do have one question tho Ford recommends a trans flush every 90K I think. But what is the best interval? I've heard everthing from 25 K to 60K. What is the best milage for a flush. On a 5R55S trans? Anyone know what works best I'm thinking 40 tp 45 K is where it needs to be but I'm just guessing. All off my other vehicles are manuals so not sure.
Thanks
Charlie
o
 






Missed oneart of your question. Trans cost $1850. The cooler and lines another $250. Other incidentals new raditor fluid and trans fluid about $200 Im at abobubt $2200 tp 2300 in the trans alone. I did get the cooler lines and transfer gasket thru the dealer their price was really close to the aftermarket coolers I could find so I went Ford. Their trans was 2800 tho so that's why I went with O'Reilly's instead of Ford.
Thanks
Charlieb
 






That's not a bad price for rebuilt trans. Did the remanufacturer bore out/insert bushings for the OD/3rd gear servos?

The Ford maintenance schedule, "normal service," says to "change automatic transmission fluid" (and filter) at 150,000 miles for these transmissions. See pp. 31-32 of the maintenance schedule. Most here consider Mercon V to be mostly (but not entirely) synthetic. Many people caution against "flushing" transmission fluid, a service that some Ford dealerships offer (special equipment). Personally, I believe the concern is overstated, but can imagine that if (i) there are actual chunks of metal flying around and not caught by the magnet on the trans pan, and (ii) the flushing equipment is too aggressive (or hooked up in the wrong direction?), some problem could result.

Since you put in a new trans and torque converter, you have all new fluid, you could let it ride for another 150k miles. However, if you don't want to flush, you could simply drain/replace fluid through the drain plug (i.e., w/o removing pan) with a 5 quart jug (spilling a quarter or so) every 50k or so. You won't get more than about a third (little less?) of the fluid out that way, but you'll be diluting the old with new, and thereby renewing it. Mercon V is really very good stuff. If your rebuilt trans fails it won't be because you didn't change it more often.

I'm impressed with how many miles are on your 'sploder! 4.0 SOHC? Timing cassettes replaced? If not, don't ignore the clickety-clickety sound when it comes . . .
 






Valvoline Mercon V White Label is full synthetic, however the one with the Yellow Label is a Synthetic Blend according to what I've seen from a few people and from the rep at Valvoline when I called them a couple weeks ago. Go to Menards and buy it if you ever need it, they have it normal price of 4.97 a quart by me for the white label. I just had mine changed, 8 quarts with a new filter by the shop at 63K. Was well worth the 60 bucks in labor it cost me for them to do it. Shifts smoother top to bottom.
 






Valvoline Mercon V White Label is full synthetic, however the one with the Yellow Label is a Synthetic Blend according to what I've seen from a few people and from the rep at Valvoline when I called them a couple weeks ago. Go to Menards and buy it if you ever need it, they have it normal price of 4.97 a quart by me for the white label. I just had mine changed, 8 quarts with a new filter by the shop at 63K. Was well worth the 60 bucks in labor it cost me for them to do it. Shifts smoother top to bottom.

No offense, but I'm a little suspicious (not of Coolhand, but of Meynards/Valvoline). The label on this so-called Menards "White Label" product indeed SAYS its "full synthetic." See: https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...2872-c-10098.htm?tid=24957975526855851&ipos=4. However, Valvoline lists no such ATF product on its website. Moreover, it is the SAME Valvoline part number as the so-called "Yellow Label" product shown on Valvoline's web site (and Amazon): https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/atf-for-mercon-v-applications. (Both are Valvoline part # 822345).

How can the same Valvoline part number be both "full synthetic" and not synthetic?

Moreover, both are identically described thusly: "...formulated with premium base oils combined with advanced additive technology..." "Base oils" sure doesn't sound even like synthetic, much less "full" synthetic to me.

Valvoline does sell a "Maxlife" product (red bottle) that also says its "full synthetic." Moreover, it says you can use it for Mercon V applications, except in California, which does not allow them to recommend it for this application there because "the viscometrics of MaxLife ATF do not match those of the official OEM specification." See: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/0c5d0ab2-1976-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3.

I got a parts counter guy at my local Ford dealershp to sell me 5 quart Motorcraft Mercon V ATF for something like $27 (little over $5 quart). Its a licensed product (see back of jug)--unlike even the Valvoline Mercon V product (whatever color label--see first link above). I feel better about it.

If I really wanted full synthetic and did not care so much about cost, I'd go with Redline D4.
 






I simply went with the Ford mercon V thru preillys it was much more expensive but it is factory spec. Close to 7' buckx a quart. But I figure first fill. Do it right. Less issues later.
 






Well guys so far so good finally got exp back together!


Took me forever it seemed. Biggest issue was the oil pan gasket. Had a small leak so I replaced the gasket. I kept popping the heads off the bolts as I was applying the final torque. So I ordered new friction bolts and did it again. Come to find out the manual had the wrong torque listed. I checked another manual and found it was 80 inch lbs not 15 foot lbs as the other manual stated.

First time I didn't double check both manuals before getting my specs. Live and learn. Anyway got those broken bolts out. A real pita to do the heads broke off about 1!8 inch inside the pan lip. First one I got lucky and after a couple off hrs it spun out with a screwdriver. Next one took two days. Did not want to turn at all. Got it to spin out to the edge of the block and it froze in place. Spent hrs trying to get it to move. Finally using areally sharp punch I got it to turn a little. Any hrs later I could finally grab it with pliers and got it to come all the way out!
Reset torque and bingo no problems.

Finished the assembly of all the stuff I had to take apart to change trans, oil cooler and lines out. Retorquing everything to spec as I went when I could find specs. Finally refilled oil and coolant. Went thru my check list to make sure I didn't forget something and went to check the alignment of the column shift lever. It wouldn't move otta park. So I went over everything I did making sure no binding or something stupid that I missed. All good. Still no movement.

I sat back trying to figure out what I did wrong. Forgot to hook up the battery. Column shifter won't move without ejectruc hooked up. Duhhhhh!!! So hooked that up. Adjusted the linkage got that straight lining up with the right letters. And said okay time to try and start the motor. Checked fluids ect. Looked for tools in wrong places yada yada. Cycled it and went to start. Amazing started first tme! Thought for sure the neutral switch was gonna mess with me after all the little stupid things that had been going on. Let it warm up.

Tested trans going into gear all good. Time for test drive. All good!

I was certian something would pop up. Nope. Took it for longer drive. No problems.
Except SES light is on. No idea why. Then I realized I didn't check codes before taking it down.
So now gotta check codes and clear memory to see whats up.
But so far no issues with how it drives shifts etc. So I hope it's just old codes in Kam.
I should n
Know more this evening

Thanks for reading and your posts.

Charlie.

Oh yeah does anyone know where to get the insides to the rear seat headrest. The plastic is busted up and the cover is good. So if I replace innards we are good to go. I just can't seem to find anything good about them yet. I may have to do junkyard but was hoping to do new so I don't have 15 yr old plastic inside.

Let me know what ya can it's the 60/40 backseats with the flip headrest.
Thanks
 






Well guys so far so good finally got exp back together!


Took me forever it seemed. Biggest issue was the oil pan gasket. Had a small leak so I replaced the gasket. I kept popping the heads off the bolts as I was applying the final torque. So I ordered new friction bolts and did it again. Come to find out the manual had the wrong torque listed. I checked another manual and found it was 80 inch lbs not 15 foot lbs as the other manual stated.

First time I didn't double check both manuals before getting my specs. Live and learn. Anyway got those broken bolts out. A real pita to do the heads broke off about 1!8 inch inside the pan lip. First one I got lucky and after a couple off hrs it spun out with a screwdriver. Next one took two days. Did not want to turn at all. Got it to spin out to the edge of the block and it froze in place. Spent hrs trying to get it to move. Finally using areally sharp punch I got it to turn a little. Any hrs later I could finally grab it with pliers and got it to come all the way out!
Reset torque and bingo no problems.

Finished the assembly of all the stuff I had to take apart to change trans, oil cooler and lines out. Retorquing everything to spec as I went when I could find specs. Finally refilled oil and coolant. Went thru my check list to make sure I didn't forget something and went to check the alignment of the column shift lever. It wouldn't move otta park. So I went over everything I did making sure no binding or something stupid that I missed. All good. Still no movement.

I sat back trying to figure out what I did wrong. Forgot to hook up the battery. Column shifter won't move without ejectruc hooked up. Duhhhhh!!! So hooked that up. Adjusted the linkage got that straight lining up with the right letters. And said okay time to try and start the motor. Checked fluids ect. Looked for tools in wrong places yada yada. Cycled it and went to start. Amazing started first tme! Thought for sure the neutral switch was gonna mess with me after all the little stupid things that had been going on. Let it warm up.

Tested trans going into gear all good. Time for test drive. All good!

I was certian something would pop up. Nope. Took it for longer drive. No problems.
Except SES light is on. No idea why. Then I realized I didn't check codes before taking it down.
So now gotta check codes and clear memory to see whats up.
But so far no issues with how it drives shifts etc. So I hope it's just old codes in Kam.
I should n
Know more this evening

Thanks for reading and your posts.

Charlie.

Oh yeah does anyone know where to get the insides to the rear seat headrest. The plastic is busted up and the cover is good. So if I replace innards we are good to go. I just can't seem to find anything good about them yet. I may have to do junkyard but was hoping to do new so I don't have 15 yr old plastic inside.

Let me know what ya can it's the 60/40 backseats with the flip headrest.
Thanks
 












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