2004 Explorer v8 Issues P0352 / P2104 / P21111 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2004 Explorer v8 Issues P0352 / P2104 / P21111

Armyruss79

New Member
Joined
March 5, 2018
Messages
5
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1
City, State
Apollo Beach, Fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Explorer Limited
So I took y Explorer to the shop today to get the A/C worked on. Long story short the tech decided to unhook my PCM from the firewall without unhooking the battery to clear the memory and bam here I am. I am aware of the P0352 coil issue. I do have a slight misfire but thats besides the point it is a 4.6. the PCM is kicking double codes meaning that the 3 listed DTC's are listed twice with the code reader. I have unhooked the battery touched the negative to the positive for a hard reset. I have taken my throttlebody off looked around cleaned and done what I can..So if i take the key put the key and do not turn it, push down on the accelerator the throttle performs as to be expected. I can push down WoT and the throttle body goes wide open and stays till i let off on the pedal.. If i turn the key to the run position it does the same throttle performs as to be expected untill i start the vehicle then i get engine failsafe runs like poop and will do nothing. I do not want to throw a throttle body at this without knowing it is for a fact bad. I have had zero problems leading up to this. I did pull the TB over the weekend and do a decarb on it. I put it back on and had no issues It was idling low. I have tried to follow the relearn process meaning. Clear the codes, unhook the battery negative, touch the negative to the positive terminal, let set for 6minutes, rehook battery up, put key into the ignition then push accelerator to the floor, turn key to the on position, push accelerator to the floor, turn key to off then start vehicle, stays in safe mode...My concern is that he cooked the pcm when he unhooked it at the fire wall without clearing the battery first, why else would i have two sets of codes P0352/ p2104 / p2111 / p0353 / p2104 / p2111. It repeats twice just like that.

The AC Tech was telling me that he believes the PCM is bad as he could not get the AC to fire off. The compressor clutch is good, its charged, he is not getting signal to the hot side switch. We even put in a new switch to verify switch was good. He put his little relay hack tool on it and was able to get the compressor to work. Which is odd my compressor was working this weekend but it was stuck in the Red on the high pressure side. .

Seeking guidance
 



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If A/C pressure is too high the system won't command compressor clutch. If the idle is too low the system also wont command compressor clutch.
 






If A/C pressure is too high the system won't command compressor clutch. If the idle is too low the system also wont command compressor clutch.


That's a small problem at this point I just want my vehicle back so I can drive borrowing vehicle to get to work in childcare isn't fun
 






That's a small problem at this point I just want my vehicle back so I can drive borrowing vehicle to get to work in childcare isn't fun
@Armyruss79
The Throttle Plate Stuck Open and Forced Engine Idle are issued hand-in-hand. First, are any other warning lights on, such as ABS?

Under shut-down conditions, the Throttle Plate is held slightly open by an internal plunger and spring against the mainspring which forces the TP closed. Upon turning key ON, the PCM quickly closes the TP tightly, then relaxes it back to the off position, held slightly open. You can check this action if you have someone turn key ON then OFF with duct removed, watch TP with a light.

Purpose of this is as a self-check to confirm proper Throttle Position Sensor output for the movement encountered. If it ain't right, Forced Idle is thrown. You may just have a bad TPS. This self-check is designed to avoid Drive by Wire suddenly going WOT, as they did for some Japanese makes early 2000's. ABS malfunction can also throw Forced Engine Idle. imp
 






No other warning lights...key In the ignition the accelerator and throttle body perform as they should push the accelerator the throttle body opens...WoT the throttle body opens all the way...start the vehicle no throttle engine safe mode....
 






If its a bad TPS then why would does the throttle body perform perfectly when the vehicle isn't running? I've had zero problems leading up to this...rough idle p0352 code and a lower idle but its never done this
 






replaced throttle body assembly...problem resolved
 












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