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2007 radiator removal

Discussion in 'Stock 2006 -2010 Explorers' started by GUERINO1, March 8, 2010.

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    1. GUERINO1

      GUERINO1 New Member

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      Can someone tell me how the he!! to remove a radiator from a 2007 Ford explorer 4.0 V6. Removed the overflow, shrowd, tranny lines, hoses, splash guard, etc. The radiator was loose... loose I tell you!!! I could lift it about 3/4" out of the support but it hits a support bracket for the AC condensor at the bottom of the radistor support. Seems that the AC bracket projects over the radiator tank. The AC bracket and rad support are one integral cast plastic unit. I had this sucker loose and had to put it all back together. Have you ever seen a grown man cry? Seems that Ford, in all their infinite wisdom, couldn't make a radiator that was 1/2" skinnier so that it would just slide right out! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. That would be too freak'n easy. I'd like to strangle the engineer that designed this. Anybody have the answer? By the way...YES it's leaking.
       
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    3. dothedeww

      dothedeww Active Member

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      haha had the same problem on my 06 that I just traded in. I loosened everything like you said, but it couldnt get past that condenser.

      The two plastic tracks it runs on, make sure u loosen those bolts so they can shit back and forth...

      And then just keep playing with it. I think it took me a good 2 hours after everything was loose to finally manevure the radiator out. Just be patient, it does come out. haha
       
    4. tldt2003

      tldt2003 Member

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      So you didn't have to take the condenser out?
       
    5. dothedeww

      dothedeww Active Member

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      nope. condenser stayed in, but working around it in a pain. took me about 3 hours total to do the replacement, the transmission lines were the worst because my new radiator had different "hookups"
       
    6. tldt2003

      tldt2003 Member

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      Did you have to add tranny fluid when you were done?
       
    7. dothedeww

      dothedeww Active Member

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      I probably should have but didnt, since adding transmission fluid involves having a special piece of equipment since its a closed system. I probably lost 1/2-1 cup of transmission fluid doing the exchange, just have to be quick about it.
       
    8. tldt2003

      tldt2003 Member

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      Did mine over the weekend. What a PITA. Ford could have made things much easier for a simple radiator. Where did you get your rad from?
       
    9. dothedeww

      dothedeww Active Member

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      Yea it was a PITA. Definitly coulda been easier. How much transmission fluid did you lose?

      And I got my rad from napa, have an account their so everything is at cost...paid less than 200 I think....it was a while ago.
       
    10. tldt2003

      tldt2003 Member

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      I'm not sure how much I lost. Whatever the cooler holds, maybe a 1/2 quart? It's at the dealer now to top off the fluid and reprogram the PCM (plus the shifter recall), I'll be interested to know how much fluid they add.

      I got my rad off of proradiators.com. It was $105 with shipping with a lifetime warranty. Seemed awfully cheap, so we'll see!
       
    11. dothedeww

      dothedeww Active Member

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      maybe mine wasnt that expensive...I can't remember it was a year ago.

      I got rid of my X though...burning oil at 90,000 miles, like a 1/2 quart a week, EVAP canister went bad twice...it was rough.
       
    12. irishtobin

      irishtobin New Member

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      How did you get around the different "hook up" problem? I've run into the same issue and my 2007 Explorer is dead in the water until I find the correct adapters. Stops at the local plumbing supply and hardware store have been no help.
       
    13. waskly

      waskly Well-Known Member

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      there are 2 10mm bolts bolting the sides of the radiator bracket to the condenser take them out.
       
    14. mdfdm

      mdfdm New Member

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      :rangertan:

      Removal of the lines requires the use of a removal tool. The tool slips around the line and is then pushed into the fitting which in turn releases the line. Most all auto parts stores have the tool for sale or rent.
       
      Last edited: November 16, 2011
    15. beerman2007

      beerman2007 New Member

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      Just finished this job, thought I would post my experience. Remove all of the obvious bolts, 2 10mm hold the rails to the rad, 2 14mm hold the rails to the body, 4 10mm for the fan shroud, air dam on the bottom with plastic push fasteners. Also, remove the overflow tank, unbolt the PS tank and move it out of the way and the clamp from the condenser line on the right side. Here is the trick, the condenser is held to the rails with 2 10mm bolts. Tilt the rad assembly forward and use a flashlight to look down between the rad and condenser. Loosen (no need to remove) these bolts and the rails will slide out away from the condenser. Make sure it is completely free of the rails at the top. The condenser is held in place at the bottom with metal pins that sit into rubber grommets, just lift it out. Once the condenser is free you are pretty much there. The next trick is to completely remove the air cleaner box. This gives you enough room to maneuver the radiator and the two rails away from the AC plumbing on the right side. You have to take out the rails with the rad, they slide on from the side and there isn't enough room to do it in the truck. If you can avoid it, don't remove the lower hose from the engine, getting it re-installed back behind the fan is a pain. Finally wound up removing the compression clamp and replacing it with a screw clamp. After removing transmission lines, quickly moved them up and wedged them behind some other lower engine/suspension parts. This get's them high enough so gravity is not an issue, only lost about 1/2 cup + what was inside the old coil, of trans fluid this way. Fittings were the right size so screwing them back into place was no problem. Still taking it into the dealer to top off the trans fluid. Much cheaper than letting them do the whole job.
       
      Last edited: May 28, 2012
    16. ExpBen06

      ExpBen06 New Member

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      Wow, wish I saw this earlier today. I just did this job, and just as I was praising ford for the two piece fan shroud, I happened on the the whole condenser blocking the removal of the radiator problem. I just loosened the side brackets for the radiator and pryed them apart to get the radiator in and out, and eventually I got it out and new one in. Took way longer than I thought it should have. Oh well, toughest radiator job I've done yet. I still appreciate the two piece fan shroud, though. :thumbsup:
       
    17. motoviper

      motoviper New Member

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      I second this.

      I followed beermans instructions to the letter for my 2007 Mountaineer. Radiator leaking pretty good at 50K miles. I almost strayed a couple times as it was tough to get the rails out with the radiator due to the A/C lines, but finally got it. I also had a tough time pulling the Transmission lines out with the tool, but it just took a little more force pulling the lines out than I thought. Thank you so much for the detailed walkthrough.
       
    18. ohirider

      ohirider New Member

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      Thanks and question

      I'm about to do the radiator on my wife's 07 X. I've learned to always look for a forum on whatever I work on and beermans post is the reason. Thanks beerman.
      Is there a special tool for removing the transmission lines that is referenced in motoviper's post?
      Thanks, John
       
    19. motoviper

      motoviper New Member

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      Yes. You have to use a special tool to push onto the lines (towards the radiator) and they expand the holding clips to allow you to pull the lines out (with a good tug as i mentioned).

      I used the lisle 39960 as it was $6 but you can use any that are 1/2" (which is mine but I read some are 3/8")
       
    20. Gbrown1270

      Gbrown1270 New Member

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      Frustration

      I am having the same problem. The radiator I installed had different connections. I have the exact tool, the lisle 39960. I have yet to be ale to pull the line from the old connector. I think my problem starts with unscrewing the connector from the old rad. How am I able to take that connector off now. It seems so so hard. So to give you a visual, I have my two lines dangling per say with the old connector attached. But they are placed upright to where no fluid is coming out. Please someone help me. Went to ford and they seem mystified.
       
    21. Fire488

      Fire488 Active Member

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      I just finished the job and it went just about exactly as you described. That AC Condenser was a pain in the butt, but its complete now. The one problem I faced was not having the tool to remove the tranny lines from the cooler. I made one up with a piece of thin sheet metal and worked it around the lock ring and it worked for one of the lines but not the other. I decided to remove the entire fitting with the line attached and swap the o-rings from the new fittings to the old fittings and it worked. I pressure checked the system and it held 10psi with air for 10 minutes cold with no leaks. Ran the truck to operating temp with no probs so far.
      Thanks for the advice.

      PS- I did loose about a half of a pint when removing the tranny lines so I just forced the same amount back in the line and quickly installed it with no loss of fluid. Man I wish they added a dip tick to this tranny.
       
    22. pb3

      pb3 Member

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      fire488, what brand radiator did you purchase? ford/ motorcraft or other?
       
    23. Fire488

      Fire488 Active Member

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      I'm not sure as I threw the box out, but the new one does not have any "fomoco" written on it anywhere and the plastic upper section is slightly different. I guess it was aftermarket. The vehicle is running slightly cooler now as well.
       
    24. BigBlockRanger

      BigBlockRanger New Member

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      Doing this swap this evening on my wife's 2007 Mountaineer. Got my radiator from Rockauto. Glad to find a thread about it and the trans line issues.
       
    25. Fire488

      Fire488 Active Member

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      I could not get the trans lines to release with the tool from Autozone. I did however spin the fittings out of the radiator and then replace the o-rings on them with the new ones. I added some thread sealer from CAT that is impervious to fuel and oils and tightened the fittings down and hoped for the best. Started the vehicle up and there are still no leaks today.
       
    26. BigBlockRanger

      BigBlockRanger New Member

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      Mine would not release at all. In fact, they still have not. haha This was a problematic swap to say the least.

      We were about to leave town on a 1300+ mile trip.

      The radiator I purchased ended up having the 2006 style fittings, but the difference really did not register with me until after the stock radiator was out.

      The lines would not release, no way no how, so I unscrewed the fittings. The hope was to get them into a position that would allow me to work on them easier. No dice. Was running out of day light so I went ahead and installed the radiator and everything else.

      I mulled over several options to make it all work, but time was certainly not on my side. I thought of just swapping the fittings, but the threads were different from one radiator to the other. I elected to take a tubing cutter and cut off the existing cooler line ends, and use 1/2" brass compression fittings to put a hose barb in their place. In order to finish and make this thing reliable for the trip I installed a 16" x 10" external cooler and bypassed the stock cooler altogether.

      It worked fine and we saw air temps of 102+ degrees and it never missed a beat, so I believe I will just leave it with the external cooler and forget about it.

      What. A. Pain.
       

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