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2016 Explorer Sport - Audio System Build

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by Lexingtonian, February 2, 2017.

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    1. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      The Master thread on this effort is located here:
      http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...25353-2016-ford-explorer-sport-build-log.html (Update 12/24/17 thread since destroyed by the Photobucket Debacle - Not sure if I'll update that thread any longer)


      __________________________________________________________________________

      I've owned my Exp Sport for around 2 weeks now and have been heavily researching the Premium Sony Audio System for a buildout. I thought I'd create this thread to help others as this build will occur over the next couple months. I've had a mess of a time tracking down info on this vehicle. Oh, it's there to be found but it's all over the interwebs.

      Kind of interesting in the mean time.. I certainly want a 5.1 Pro-Logic Center Channel Upmixed system (this vehicle is built for it frankly) and thus there are only 2 DSP's on the planet for Car Audio that can do that. The Alpine H800 and the JBL MS8 (now discontinued but plenty on Ebay). (there is rumor that Audio Frog is going to release something along the DSP line this year also) I'm going with the MS8 I think though. Anyway, the center channel becomes important in a system like that and I want a little more than a mincy anemic 3 1/2" speaker. I was able to confirm tonight that I can get a 5 1/4" speaker in there without too much trouble. Looking forward to the extra center audio strength. Kudos to Ford for providing the space. It should reside quite comfortably under the stock grill.

      The system I'm looking to do will be as follows (subject to change):

      Front Door
      Tweeter - SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC
      Woofer -
      8" Driver Silver Flute W20RC38-04 (Stock Size is a 6x9, I like an 8" Mid Bass so some modification is required)

      Center Channel
      Eclipse 5 1/4" Point Source (4/30/17 may be changing to another driver, still testing) (Update, changed with the NVX V Series 5 1/4 - liked the tweet better than the old Eclipse)

      Rear Door
      NVX VSP60 6" Speakers (as of 12/24/17 I havent installed them yet - not sure if I will)

      Rear Speakers
      4" NVX VSP4

      Subwoofer
      JL Audio Stealthbox 10"

      Sound Deadening
      Noico 80 Mil (Amazon)

      Amplifers
      2 Soundstream Tarantula 4.900 150x4 Class D Amplifiers
      1 JL Audio JX500/1D for the Sub. It's just finding a place to put them that's the tough part. Not a lot of places to hide amps in this vehicle

      DSP
      JBL MS8
      *(Turns out, in the end, I'm not using the PAC unit - I'm using the variable line output - see Item 2 under Ford Audio Related below) PAC AP4-FD21 (Essential to connect to the CAN Bus, maintain Steering Wheel Controls and bypass the factory amp with line level signal that has been un-eq'd.

      Helpful links to me at this point:

      Ford Audio Related
      1. 2016 Ford Explorer Premium and Sony Wiring Diagrams !!!!Grab This!!!!!
      2. Unprocessed Variable Line Out (for Sony Amp Delete)
      3. 2016 Platinum F150 Sony Speaker Upgrade
      4. 2016 Sport Audio Upgrade (thanks for your work, very helpful)
      5. 2015 Ford F150 Audio Upgrade
      6. **2014 Ford F150 w/ Sony System (very helpful thread on OEM / Factory Amp integration)**
      7. 2012 Limited Upgrades (Long thread full of a lot of great info - great work folks!)
      8. Best Custom Stealth Sub Build I've seen for Explorer (Nice work)
      9. The complete lack of good subwoofer options for this vehicle.. (I ain't losin' muh Spare Tire)
      10. PAC AP4-FD21 above in the DSP Section as it's essential for clean amplification with little factory system modification
      Explorer How To
      1. Door Panel Removal Guide
      2. JL Audio Stealthbox Install in Explorer
      3. Subwoofer Removal Guide
      4. Passenger Side Firewall Grommet Access (and Airbag Removal amongst other things..)
      Environment Modification
      1. Active Noise Canceling Disable (Fake Engine Noise Disable - this method is the hard way, I used Forscan and Disabled it . See the Forscan Spreadsheet Below, ACM 727-01-01)
      2. Forscan Software Guide
      3. 2015-2016 Ford F150 Forscan Spreadsheet (this thing is freaking legendary...) (Fake Engine Noise Disable on ACM Tab Line 107)
      4. For AsBuilt Data for your vehicle (You really should save this somewhere)
      5. Aux Input (Line In) Cable (I ordered the $55 kit and used Forscan to modify 7D0-02-02 in the APIM - Jason was great to work with and also offers Sync3 Upgrades amongst other things. His site primarily caters to Police Interceptor vehicles so some differences between your vehicle and those will occur)
      6. Forscan ODB2/CAN Bus Reader Amazon $29 (this is the one I have)
      General Audio Related
      1. Room Eq Wizard (REW) Tuning Primer
      2. Are Center Channels Relevant, here, in the future?
      3. Wiring Diagrams (up to 2015 - still excellent)

      Looking forward to adding to the thread as I get into the build (dont worry there will be Pics). I'm still ordering gear at this point but my trigger finger is getting a little, twitchy. I know quite a bit about Forscan Modification and the Audio System in the vehicle at this point. If you have questions, let me know..

      - Lexingtonian
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
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    3. Inane222

      Inane222 Member

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      Welcome aboard and thanks for the great post. Plenty of very good links there, all in one spot!

      I've only been using Forscan since mid December but I love it. The F150 site and that spreadsheet is amazing. Just got finished modding my Exp up from the little 4.2" screen to the 8" MFT, couldn't have been done without Forscan.

      I dropped an ACM from EBay in this weekend with satellite and HD. I was only interested in the HD capability. After I dropped it in, I changed one number in the ACM data and one in the APIM data and that was all, had HD radio.

      Looking forward to the progress and thanks again for combining those links.
       
    4. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Excellent work! I've done about a dozen Forscan mods at this point. Don't remember them all frankly. Just added an Aux Jack which will be handy for running the REW tones through the system. Had to enable the jack with Forscan and ordered a wiring kit from FordPIMods.com. The guy there has been a pleasure to work with.

      Anyway, thanks for the warm welcome!
       
    5. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Made a bunch of Helpful Link changes/additions today. I'd especially grab the first link (under Ford Audio Related). It's an immaculate and full multi-page diagram of the Premium and Sony sound systems in the 2016. Definitely hard to find.
       
    6. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
      There are several threads on Audio Upgrades that members have done. Some with installation pictures. You can find them with the 'Search' feature (upper right). Here is just one of them; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/pics-of-my-audio-upgrade.386927/
      (typed this up yesterday but forgot to actually post it)

      Peter
       
    7. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Thanks... Ive done quite a bit of searching. I'll add this link too!
       
      Last edited: February 3, 2017
    8. Inane222

      Inane222 Member

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      Forgot to add, I bought a 2016 OEM Ford wiring manual off eBay if you end up needing anything. Offered the seller $30 and he took it. Money well spent. Haven't found but a handful of differences for the 17' model compared to the 16' wiring and those were simple color changes.
       
    9. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for the heads-up!
       
    10. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Update on the build..

      Over the weekend I bought a JBL MS-8 DSP on EBay

      Today I ordered:
      1. The PAC unit mentioned above.
      2. A JL Audio Stealthbox (see deals forum for 15% off)
      3. 2 Soundstream Tarantula 150x4 Amplifiers.

      Looking forward to getting started in the coming weeks!
       
    11. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Added link to a video I made detailing how to run cable into the Cabin from the engine compartment in a 2016/17 Ford Explorer. (The cable is actually fed from the cabin to the Engine Compartment not the other way around as is most common) This is helpful for those needing to run a power cable for Car Audio, Towing Controllers etc.. I show the tools required for the removal of the Glove Box, Knee Airbag, Plastic Panels, Power Inverter and discus the methodology for punching through the grommet and feeding your cable into the engine compartment.

       
    12. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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    13. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      ..and the build continues...

      I replaced the 3.5" Center Channel with an Eclipse 8951 5.25" Point Source driver yesterday. I frankly have had this speaker in my "stock" for, I suppose almost 20 years now (which is why it's a little dusty). Funny, I only had one and the crossover, but it was such a fantastic speaker that I just couldn't get rid of it and intended to use it as a center channel some day. Welp - That day came!

      Here's the before Photo -

      [/LIST] IMG_0084.jpg



      1. I first verified if the speaker magnet would hang too low and, while it was close, it did not.
      2. I measured the Eclipse speaker mounting diameter which was 4.625" and created a template with Word printed on heavy stock. I cut it out with scissors and used both parts of the template in the process. I started by dropping the template hole over the speaker to make sure it was the right size before I cut the dash.
      3. I used sharpie to trace the template onto the dash and checked for speaker fit
      4. I then used a sharp razor to cut the dash faux-vinyl-leather and removed the foam under it. There is a hard layer at the bottom that has the consistency of Bakelite so I scored the bakelite layer with a razor and snapped it out with a pair of pliers. It broke predictably and while a little jagged, it worked fine. There is enough foam under the bakelite layer that I didn't need to remove that bakelite layer all the way back to the mounting hole as the speaker's natural basket slope to the magnet is quite abrupt.
      5. I checked for fit and also checked for magnet depth again. Good to go -
      6. Next I put Noico Butyl Deadner on the tops of the vents as they sounded pretty hollow. Much better
      7. I also put deadener under the speaker hole
      8. A couple photos showing the stock 3.5" vs the Eclipse 5.25" speaker
      9. I used the circle template once again to verify everything would work out on the stock grill and removed the metal mesh do I could begin cutting the stock grille.
      10. A nice shot from the top as you can see the speaker looks great under the cutout, plenty of room for a little 5.25" mid-bass
      11. I screwed down the speaker and wired it up. I ended up wire tying the cross over in the far left of the ACM/APIM compartment behind a metal bracket. Stock grill looks, well, stock! Immediate difference in the presence of the center channel. Looking forward to next steps in the build!



        IMG_0084.jpg IMG_8123.jpg IMG_0414.jpg IMG_0808.jpg IMG_0987.jpg IMG_1707.jpg IMG_2165.jpg IMG_2274.jpg IMG_2453.jpg IMG_2606.jpg IMG_3127.jpg IMG_3335.jpg IMG_3764.jpg IMG_4489.jpg IMG_5798.jpg IMG_7146.jpg IMG_7172.jpg IMG_7202.jpg IMG_8548.jpg IMG_8549.jpg
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    14. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      ..and the Build continues...

      Yesterday I also added an Aux Line-In jack to my Sync2 System. Apparently Sync3 doesn't even have this option. I primarily wanted it so I could send REW Sweeps through the system for tuning purposes. I don't see much use for it other than that as I would connect most devices via bluetooth.

      There are several different pinouts for the APIM connector. For my 2016 its Pin 10 Left + and Pin 11 Left- and 27 Right+ followed by 28 Right- (as memory serves). I bought the cable from FordPIMods.com Jason was easy to work with and provided a very well built cable although I did have to modify it by connecting the Green and Black wires so they both connected to ground.

      Worked out well.

      IMG_7044.jpg IMG_1917.jpg IMG_1325.jpg IMG_1526.jpg



      (Update 12/24/2017 - I've replaced the Sync2 system with Sync3. Sync 3 has no provision for a 3.5mm Aux input. This is now no longer in use)
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    15. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Oscilloscope Tests of the Ford ACM and test ultimately conclude that it makes sense (for me) not the use the PAC unit and to use The Variable Line Out ForScan mod.







       
    16. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      The build is going to stall still end of month. I've been giving up too much family time working on the truck. (I'm certain many of you know that feeling) My wife is leaving on the 31st for a couple weeks so I'll be able to tear it down in the garage, leave it torn down and wrap it up in that time. Looking forward to having the gear in the truck and not sitting in a pile in my garage.. Still trying to figure out where I'm going to mount amps and the MS8 Processor. The only real places for that in the Explorer are under the front seats (where there's ample room but don't want them to get kicked) and behind the rear panels where the Sony Amp and Sub reside. I'm certain I can fit 2 amps back there once the Sony is gone, but don't think I can fit everything in there. Won't know till I get into it -
       
    17. Eugene Bryant

      Eugene Bryant New Member

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      System will be a monster Sir. I recently trade a 15 SHO for a 17 Explorer Sport and I'm looking forward to transferring my system over to the Explorer. I used Rockford's 360.3 processor, Focal K2 3 way set up front, Kicker L5 8" subs and a Alpine PDX ch and was very pleased with the results. But very interested in your system design. Rockford has a new processor coming this spring that sound very nice http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/news/newsdetail.aspx?id=14469. Check it out let me know what you think?
       
    18. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum.:wave:

      Peter
       
    19. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Didn't get as much time over the weekend as I would have liked (didn't get to test the 100hz freaky tone James Cole is hearing yet) but I did get the passenger seats (front and back) removed an the C/D Pillar plastic panel. I removed the 8" sub and Sony Amp (boy, that felt great BTW).

      I did spend the last 24hrs wringing my hands over where I'm gonna mount my Amps. I have 3 (plus an MS8 which is freaking huge, larger than all my amps), and while they're all Class D and not very large, there is truly nearly no place to mount them in the vehicle that's obvious. ...that is until I discovered a CAVERN under the front seat carpet. See attached photos. This pretty much solves my problems. I'll be able to easily fit my MS8 and one Amp (maybe 2) right under the passenger seat. I'll likely install one or two amps where the old Sony used to reside and I'm good to go. I'm kind of thinking that I may be able to fit my MS8 and 2 of my Soundstream Nano amps under there.

      ...Just look. Good Gawd! All the Room!

      (latest build info here: 2016 Ford Explorer Sport Build Log - Page 4 - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum )

      File_000.jpeg File_001.jpeg

      Lex..
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    20. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      (catching up the build)

      Little work on the area under the passenger seat. Work in progress of course. You can see where I'll mount the MS8 and two Soundstream TN4.900D's stacked along with power fusing in distribution between them (not pictured yet).



      IMG_5482.jpg IMG_4018.jpg IMG_8880.jpg IMG_9195.jpg
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    21. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      Mocking up the Amps. My son laid down a bit of Noico Sound Deadening behind the passenger seat. Ford only deadened in front of the front seats but not behind them (or anywhere else south of the main cabin).


      B5F7C80D-907F-49F5-B984-BC22775F7A3F.jpg B09D0567-6319-491D-B53B-54FC0ECE2B12.jpg 1C7CC44B-19FB-4F2F-AC53-BC562F7D7F65.jpg 8FE5721B-E4C4-437A-A048-D5A4A3CE9A2C.jpg
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    22. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      This is for the conversion of the Ford Sync Stereo to Variable Line Out (RCA). This will work for Sync2 or Sync3 Systems. I used the settings here:
      (Under the "Common" tab lines 77,78 and 79)
      FORScan 2015-2018 F150s

      I just installed the RCA's in the ACM Connector last night and they fit perfectly (a little snug as I was using 18ga wires and the wires in the factory harness are 22/24 ga I think).

      My ACM connector top and bottom before removing the RF/LF RR/LR Connections


      0BB7780B-0287-4E0B-9B5F-6E5D4E105F03.jpg 93BA6044-E361-4949-9C5E-756A8DDD8D3B.jpg


      After installing the new connectors to RCA Jack -

      The pins are removed from the front of the connector and require a VERY TINY screwdriver to trip the release. See my photo below where the perspective is staring straight on the connector. The light green guard has been removed. The release is right above the connector (for the top row and below for the bottom row). It's inset though thus the reason for the tiny screw driver.

      You could use a set like this:

      https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4461-6-Pi...minal+pin+tool

      But it's pricey.

      I used these:

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      and this Crimper

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      I would use the large die to make the first crimp then use the small die (and not crimp all the way) to compress the fitting. Then do a little clean up with pliers so it would fit clean into the connector. Most of the them pushed clean straight in. A couple need just a little nudge to go in with needle nose pliers. I tried to feel how much resistance they had as if I wanted to return it to stock later I wanted them to come out easy. If they go in easy, they'll come out easy.

      Hope this helps.


      For clarity sake, this is the female terminal that fits the ACM Connector:
      https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...y571-2035334-1

      This is the female terminal that fits the APIM Connector
      https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...y571-1924955-4

      I used this wire for the APIM Connectors (22 ga)
      https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...4A0111-22-0-US

      I used the white and black version of this wire for the ACM work I did in photos above:

      https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...4A0111-20-0-US

      https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...4A0111-20-9-US


      D70C7DCA-F039-49FA-B357-EC5A3C88EE7F.jpg 16618847-0A70-49F8-84FD-2D949819A9B8.jpg E36558AE-38FC-4A5B-B7EE-790147AD5103.jpg 59C57160-0D51-4EC9-B941-ECAC1EF8F05C.jpg

      Original Pins bent back and Wire Tied

      6E55EFFD-7CC1-4E78-B2D4-203040800185.jpg

      61D9F5A6-A2D6-4B9B-9249-F75D1D379F7A.jpg
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    23. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      I installed my Sub amp in the location of the Sony Amp and laid the JL Audio Stealthbox in the back to get a listen. Here are a few photos of the Amp install before and after I tied up the wires. I had to mount the amp upside down due to the length of my shielded RCA. I was able to use one of the SONY amp tapped screws as well on the upper right.


      265DCD1D-271D-43D3-895E-2BE3861044B4.jpg 8BEE7942-52B9-4AFD-9A52-4041D3349D0F.jpg 781FB689-98C8-43F7-B063-BCA7F84D863B.jpg

      I hadn't connected the sub wires yet, but did that right after I took the Pic.
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    24. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

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      I installed my first MS8 a couple days ago in my 2016 Explorer Sport. I ran into this issue for turn on/off as well. Hope it helps someone -

      The Infamous MS8 Pop and how to solve it -

      Several documented examples of it here (and there are many more):
      Turn on / off pop with JBL MS8 and Sony
      http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/101151-ms-8-loud-pop.html
      http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/162123-jbl-ms8-turn-off-pop-does-not-do-while-muted.html

      First, I'd like to thank DanMc85 for his excellent post below which was the ultimate solution:
      Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (Factory Radio) For Amplifier Upgrades

      To quote from his post:
      Quote:
      Amp Remote Turn On: ACM (Harness B) - Violet/Red (Pin 18) OR ACM (Harness A) - Brown (Pin 7)
      Note these remote turn on wires are NOT 12 volts (approx 6 volts)... some amplifiers may require a 12 volt remote input and may need to convert this output with a third party device or relay. While you have the dash apart, you could also tap the accessory power wire at the key ignition harness for a guaranteed 12 volt wire for remote turn on. Also some sound processors, such as the JBL MS-8, support 4 Volts and higher as a remote turn on voltage so this is not an issue if you are using one.

      UPDATE:
      Better remote turn on wire option for Push to Start Vehicles:
      Connector C3501 - Pin 5 - Brown/Yellow (22 Gauge) - 12 Volt w/ Delayed Accessory Feature
      - This wire is going into the 150 Watt AC/DC Power Inverter

      I have bolded and enlarged the section relevant to the solution. First I used the ACM audio enable wire for remote trigger for the MS8 and that was what was causing the pop. The MS8 and subsequently all of my amps were staying on for minutes beyond the the car shutoff. Just before the internals of the APIM/ACM would go offline I'd get the pop then the AMP/MS8 would shutoff. Moving the remote turn-on to the C3501 connector worked like a charm and shuts down the MS8 as soon as I power off the car or system. Much better and thank you DanMc85!

      The Pop IS NOT coming from the MS8. It was coming from the ACM as it was shutting down. I'm assuming ACM doesn't do a soft shutoff and line level amp capacitors were draining causing the pop before going offline. (what it sounds like to me anyway)

      Hope this helps someone. If you dont have an ACM or aren't coming from the Ford Factory System, replace ACM with "Head Unit" and it will be relevant to you. Essentially the head unit is shutting down releasing energy into the RCA's before the MS8 is turning off the Amps. This is the problem you need to solve to eliminate the MS8 turn on/off Pop.
       
    25. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 2, 2017
      Messages:
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      City, State:
      Lexington, KY
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2016 Exp Sport w/401a
      Been trying to figure out a Sub issue. It sounded boomy and unbalanced. I tried several things and in the end decided I needed to understand what curve I'm getting from the JL 10" Stealthbox for the Explorer. So I took a 20hz to 80hz sweep in REW. (80 because that's my 4th order x-over point on the MS8).

      Well whatddaya know.. It's gonna a need at little EQ love to smooth it out..

      Screen%20Shot%202017-04-22.png

      Huge Milestone today!

      I was able to put the carpet and the front seat back in. I'm real happy with how everything fits. It's hard to describe as I didn't take any photos of it but I had to cut the carpet a bit to get everything to fit the way I wanted. The back portion of the carpet, the part that drops down from the foot vent I cut all the way across level with the vent and bent the flaps down. then the back piece I cut so that I was split in two. I fed the portion next to the center console down under the MS8 and likewise fed the other carpet piece under the Soundstream amps. Looks great though and fits well.

      E07B859A-5ED4-46D5-80E5-0AD92336D9CF.jpg EBF79C28-E627-459B-B662-0921AC94A498.jpg C602BAE5-FE1E-4D54-B9E6-707D316A51E7.jpg

      I'm not terribly concerned about the amps being partially covered by carpet. They are Class D and run cool anyway. One of the main reasons I chose Class D was because of the compact size and efficiency. It's a huge benefit and very clean power.

      Still working on rear of the truck. I haven't completely figured out how I want to run the D pillar speakers. Ford did something sneaky for the D Pillar 3 1/2" speakers. They ran both left and right in parallel off the same output. So they aren't in stereo. Pretty weak sauce. See the illustration below.

      Screen%20Shot%202017-04-22%20at%2010.38.42%20PM.png


      I bought 4" speakers to replace the anemic stock 3.5" D-Pillar speakers but I dont think I'm going to be able to use them (yet). The stockers mount to the D-Pillar Plastic so I'm going to take a closer look. I also still need to make the cuts in my rear plastic to fit the Stealthbox.

      Tomorrow I'm going to hit the system from 20hz-20,000hz with REW and see what I have to work with. I'm _incredibly_ happy with the way the system sounds. Best system I've ever owned by a long shot -

      Lex
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017
    26. Lexingtonian

      Lexingtonian Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 2, 2017
      Messages:
      129
      Likes Received:
      30
      Trophy Points:
      38
      City, State:
      Lexington, KY
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2016 Exp Sport w/401a
      D Pillar Speakers installed today! Took a bit more effort than I thought it might as the 4" NVX VSP4 Speakers were WAY more substantial than the stock 3.5" drivers. As illustrated here:




      IMG_8662.jpg IMG_8661.jpg





      They really are nice drivers for under $50/pair. Hard to beat and absolutely perfect for this application. I chose the NVX's V Series because they were very high quality and had nice 1" smooth silk dome tweeters. I started down the road of mounting them behind the 3.5" grilles for the ultimate stock look but the space behind the D Pillar plastic panel has an odd shaped metal cutout with limited depth down low. I did a bunch of head scratching and tried everything I could think of short of getting my air nibbler out and cutting the steel. I didn't really want to cut as the seatbelt was right below and I didn't want to compromise the strength of the steel in any way incase I had an accident. Here's my head-scratching photos, you can see the 4" driver doesnt fit very well in the stock locations.




      IMG_8680.jpg IMG_8679.jpg






      It became obvious that I was going to have to surface-mount them. So there's that process -






      IMG_8678.jpg




      I put the VSP4 in the lowest point I could get the magnet to fit in the stock locations then put the dry-fit the panel back over top of the speaker to see if I surface mounted it how much I'd have to move the hole up to keep from hitting the steel. The photo above proves, I pretty much cant move the hole up far enough, I'm going to have to deal with the steel in some way, just not sure how much yet. I'll check when I get a speaker mounted. There was 1 and 7/8ths of depth between the back of the plastic d pillar cover and the steel pillar. The NVX speaker was a touch over 2"'s of depth. Definitely need to manipulate the steel. First lets remove the stock grille and cut the surface mount hole. I cut it a little off center of the original hole as I was trying to get the magnet to center up as best as possible over the steel behind it so I'd have as little work as possible. I marked the hole then used a razor to trace the hole. I used pliers to get the plastic to snap along the razor score line. I LOVE working with ABS plastic. It breaks so predictably and cleanly.




      IMG_8684.jpg IMG_8681.jpg IMG_8682.jpg





      I bought these Grilles on Ebay for $9.99. Perfect for 4" Speakers. I wanted it to look as stock as possible. Most 4" speakers dont come with grilles and the ones that do look like total Dog-SH**. These were perfect.





      IMG_8683.jpg





      I have the speakers mounted up and they look great.




      IMG_8687.jpg
       
      Last edited: December 24, 2017

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