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2nd Gen 5.0L Performance Mod List

Discussion in 'Modified 1995-2001 Explorers' started by Centaurus5.0, November 14, 2017.

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    1. Blown

      Blown Member

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      I believe if you compare the cost per horse, adding 6lbs of boost to a stock engine is less expensive than most modifications. I am talking DIY stuff and not high dollar kits.

      Price-out a cam, heads, headers, and exhaust. Those would be the minimum items to approach similar gains from 6lbs. of boost.
       
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    3. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      Once again, there were 2 supercharger kits made ever of a 2nd gen 5L, and no turbo kits. I've made my supercharger set up, and have another member that lives close to me that made his own turbo kit. That adds up fast, no to mention having to work out bugs on something most people have never done before
       
    4. Blown

      Blown Member

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      I believe if you compare the cost per horse, adding 6lbs of boost to a stock engine is less expensive than most modifications. I am talking DIY stuff and not high dollar kits.

      Price-out a cam, heads, headers, and exhaust. Those would be the minimum items to approach similar gains from 6lbs. of boost.
      I am on my fourth DIY supercharged Rig. I have my opinion and the price per pony is better than a bunch of other bolt on mods. I am assuming some skill, though I am average and learned as I went.

      I know the biggest expenses and have learned to work around them.
       
    5. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      please post what kit you are using, and on what motor your are using it on. i sold my used EE kit for if i remember correctly around $2000. also, that is used. like you said, if you are going to price things out, then you can price out used cam, heads, headers and still be under a supercharger.
       
    6. Blown

      Blown Member

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      We have a difference of opinion that's ok. I'll track my expenses in my "Blown Again" thread, Will Be Blown Again!. I think with injectors, tuner, and blower I will be around $3,000.

      This is a quick guestimate:
      6lbs $3,000/ 72 horses = $41.66 $3,000/90 ftlbs torque = $30/ftlbs of torque
      9lbs $3,000/108 horses = $27.77/horse $3,000/124ftlbs = $24.19/ftlb.

      Cam, Heads, Headers, Exhaust, and Gaskets????????
      $2,000/50 horses = $40/pony and probably about the same for torque. No way will you get the torque from a cam that you can with boost.

      Build for torque! At 9lbs the cost per horse and ftlbs of torque is way lower in price. I challenge you to show different and show me where you can get 125ftlbs of torque from a head swap, cam change and exhaust on an Exploder????????
       
      Last edited: February 15, 2018
    7. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      include how many hours of time this is going to take to make the intake and blower you bought work. if thats from a f150, it aint going to be a direct bolt on.
       
    8. Blown

      Blown Member

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      Yes because installing heads, camshaft, headers and exhaust is going to be a snap?

      I have heard about the stupid amount of time it takes to install headers. There is nothing that special about setting up a blower like you did and there are many more than a couple people here who have done so. Sorry, just not that special or hard and it is within reach of many. I won't need all the help you did.

      I may recast the awesome intake to blower manifold to make it available for others. It will bolt right on! That gives me a head start over the box you have................

      You got a nice truck but how much of it did you really do anyway to be telling me how mine is going to go? Again this will be my fourth DIY blower set-up with tuning.

      My momma told me I was special, but I found out otherwise, nothing special about this and doable for many!
       
    9. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Play nice boys.

      For the record, Tim doesn't let anyone work on his truck.

      We tend to post about issues we have so that others can learn. maybe that just makes people think we are doing things wrong and they wont have issues, I don't know.

      I will say that my turbo has been extremely reliable. I really struggled with my motor. Now, things are so modified, weird random stuff comes and goes. my truck is a dd, and I'm expecting very near factory manners.

      I say do what you want, I know tin didn't mean to insult you, he's trying to help. I can tell Yu that because I know Tim personally. No need to be insulting other guys here. you asked in your thread, and Tim gave his opinion, that's all. If you don't want to hear opinions, don't ask.

      Oh, and I'm going to highly recommend doing your own tuning and a knock sensor of some kind. This would have saved me a motor as when remote tuning is done the tuner goes by past experience. If your motor is detonating, the guy remote tuning might not understand the seriousness of it and you will bend a lot of stuff (as Yu know).

      Lets enjoy this and learn from each others experiences, not attack each other. And, Blown, I excited t see the results of whatever you do.
       
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    10. Blown

      Blown Member

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      Whatever I'm out and done with this.
       
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    11. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      be happy im not going to reply to your bash post. bye special person :moon:
       
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    12. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      why is it so many of these discussions of speed and performance turn south?
      I think if we all had been sitting around a campfire discussing this, the things said would have been taken differently. Considering this, and the fact all participants in this thread have excellent ideas and input, I am asking if we can take a step back and all try to get along?
      Sometimes experience with the given resources and direction will sway a statement or thought. Keep this in mind and I am sure this will turn out to be a great discussion thread.
       
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    13. Blown

      Blown Member

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      Oh pleaz hurt me. Common dude, sorry, but you seemed to be coming after me for my opinion.

      I tried to post-up some real numbers like per pony or ftlbs or both???
       
      Last edited: February 16, 2018
    14. fastpakr

      fastpakr Elite Explorer

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      Holy smokes, blown. All he's asked for (repeatedly) is a basic walk through of what you use and the costs. You're the one attacking him instead of just coming to the table with information. Man up.
       
    15. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      I already have a cam and headers on my v8. I also have a supercharger, don't make me use it........

      20180125_132355.jpg
       
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    16. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      Hey look! He's back, and with more butthurt! I want to dyno it, but it will have to wait. I have a good idea of what it will make. I also will have other things to do in the mean time when my next truck gets here. I will have to get someone to do the repairs on it. I have no clue how to do them, only let people think I know what I'm doing
       
    17. Centaurus5.0

      Centaurus5.0 Elite 5.0L Fiddler

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      @Blown

      Do you happen to have any pics of your old rides? It would be cool to see some pics of your set-up's.

      I've never had a blown car personally, but I have passed wrenches at more than a few installs...in mustangs. I've said before, if Vortech or better yet Hellion (custom turbo headers included) made a kit for our rigs, it would solve all our hp problems (lack of).
       
    18. Centaurus5.0

      Centaurus5.0 Elite 5.0L Fiddler

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      USE IT USE IT USE IT!!!
       
    19. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      is that just layin around or wgha?
       
    20. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      At the moment yes. It's off a 5.4 but pretty direct fit on any mod motor. I've thought about using it on my 77 build with the 351w (another thread on here) but not sure.

      I also have a stage one focus sport turbo kit for my 07 Focus ST that's been in storage 2 years. Its a nice kit with a water cooled garret. I work 60+ hours a week and never feel like working on my own stuff anymore.

      20180216_193834.jpg
       
    21. Centaurus5.0

      Centaurus5.0 Elite 5.0L Fiddler

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      What ever you put it on, you'll be able to hear it coming a mile away. The Procharger's whine is loud!
       
      Last edited: February 16, 2018
    22. Centaurus5.0

      Centaurus5.0 Elite 5.0L Fiddler

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      Wanted to show this off:
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]

      2wd 5.0L driveshafts are steel and measure 54.5" from CL to CL of U joint. 99-2003ish Police Crown Vic aluminum driveshafts are are 55.5" with 1330 u-j. The later model P71 are much longer.

      So the question now is, do I cut an inch off a new expensive mmc driveshaft or or do I hold on to it until I do build. I reason that if I had a 4r70w built with the 1" shorter output shaft I shouldn't have to cut it at all. Also, what yoke does the explorers have? longer or shorter? do the splines run to the end?

      A driveshaft shop quoted me $280-$320 to custom make an aluminum one. I picked the mmc up new in the box for $400. Way more than I ever wanted to spend but way cheaper than the next closest priced one at $899. I wanted it mainly for the NVH dampening characteristics... and because I know there aren't too many people out there with one of these NIB ;D. Though they were made to dampen high speed vibrations in cv with 3.55's, our rigs suffer from bad vibrations on the other end of the spectrum when chugging along under 1800rpm in Overdrive. It sounds like a real low booming rumble. Combined with a sloppy leaf spring suspension where the pinion angle is bouncing around on every pot hole and on braking and take off. It makes sense to have something lighter to help reduce/absorb bad vibes, hp be damned. 4.0L 2wd come with aluminum shafts fyi. Maybe due to the sohc high rpm nature and availability of 4.10 gears?? I dunno.

      Have any of you guys put an aluminum driveshaft in a 2wd?
       
    23. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      i will have to get a new video of @Dono 's truck. you can literally hear him a block away with his rear mounted turbo lol. sounds like a jet air plane.
       
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    24. shucker1

      shucker1 Elite Explorer

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      @Centaurus5.0 ,

      What dimensions do you need?

      Spline depth of the front yoke?

      My shaft happens to be out and fully stripped down.

      It was going to get a coat of POR-15 today and new crosses pressed back in when its done.
       
    25. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      @Centaurus5.0, looking again at your first post, you will also want to include in the 347 mentions jon's (Turdle's) mountee "turdle" who pretty much cost guys like me a lot of money lol. also andy's (ahodges) insanely clean 96 which not only also did a v8 swap, but also did it with a 347 stroker with a m90 explorer express supercharger on top of it as well as took second in explorer/mountianeer at 2016 carlisle all ford nationals in i believe
      Andrew's 1996 Explorer XLT
      and also here
      5.0 swap - w/ 4406
      brad (ford99_1979) 347 RE-Power 1996 Limited AWD which is where my 347 came out of orginally
      then if you really want to do some searching, 2 members who are long gone from the forum, trolls, and clowns (or is it clownz) who had blinding fast trucks

      now getting back to performance mods, 2 other ones which some people do overlook are, a trans shift kit, and high stall torque converter. these however have there draw backs as well. depending on the shift kit you go with (dono will back me up on this one) they can sometimes be harsh. i had used a transgo stage 2 kit in the first trans i had. it was hard enough that it would bark the tires going into 2nd gear. if you also live in a area that has snow in the winter, it can make driving, shall i say "interesting" in winter, as well as put your passengers through hell if they are not into that sort of thing. with a converter, you would also face higher trans temps depending on the stall you go. both of these wont give you horse power, but with a shift kit will take less time to shift, and converter, will get you in your power curve faster, and keep you in it. other draw backs are, you have to pull the trans out to put a converter in, and for the shift kit, drop the valve body out of it, resulting in you getting a bath in smelly trans fluid, while its dripping in your face the entire time unbolting it.
       
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    26. Centaurus5.0

      Centaurus5.0 Elite 5.0L Fiddler

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      I updated the shout-out list for strokers. :thumbsup:

      I agree on the shift kit. It should be one of the first things someone does to their rig. I had a lentech valvebody in an old 1996 (rolled it:censored:) and it felt the same as the BCA I have now. The BCA would chirp 2nd on WOT when I first put it in but now it just a firm shift. Just a weee bit too firm for a DD but I'm hoping the swap to 4.30's from 3.73's will tame it some. (less difference in rpm when shifting).

      I would like a better torque convertor too. The right one will definitely helps lower ET's over the oem.
       

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